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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
brake lines

got a 70 GT. i got it in october and when i got it the car had been sitting for two years and had no brake fluid in it. i got the car running real well and everything first. put brake fluid in the resivoir and pumped em up and "tried" to bleed them. only the drivers side front will bleed any fluid out. the other three do nothing. i opened the bleeders and my friend pushed on the pedal and he said hard pedel. i didnt believe him so i left the bleeder open and tried myself..... he wasnt lying. the passenger side front and both rear do the same thing. you can take the lines off at the wheel cylander and calipers and it does the same thing.(the front drivers side works perfect) i took the lines off the master cylander one at a time( only had one line unhooked at a time) and it shoots fluid good and strong stream. so this has to be in the lines right? or is there something somewhere thats prone to plugging up or something? i'm excited guy if i can get these D#*^ brakes figured out i can start drivin the thing...... only on my permit of couse but better than nothing i guess.lol. i assume its rusted brake lines but i'd appreciate any input on if i'm correct or if you know any little "trick" or something prone to going bad setting. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!! i wanna drive a GT:D
 

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Had the same thing happen to me. GT had set for about three years- replaced the booster and still no brakes. What happened is that the brake hoses swell shut over the years and become impassible. Replace the two front lines and the one in the rear- I would recommend it just for the safty aspect.
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
do the rubber parts of the lines just swell shut or is there a good chance that the brake system was dry that water and moisture got int he lines and rusted them shut? like you said i'll buy lines anyway just to be safe. anybody got any idea on how many feet to get? i'll get some at the local part store. more expensive that OGTS but i dont have to wait a week either. i'm thinkin maybe 20-25 feet?
 

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Jared,

First, could you do this poor moderator a favour and post your questions in the section to which it applies? So for "Brake" questions, go to the "Mechanical" heading and post under the sub-heading "Brakes".

And before you do, have a look around that section and see if your question has already been answered. This particular topic has been covered extensively. If you don't see a thread with a heading that seems to fit, please use the "Search" function to see if there is a relevant thread.

And if you still have a question, or would like a better explanation than has been provided, ask away. We all love to show off how much we know about our Opels, but a new question is always more fun to answer than the same old one for the fourth time.

Regarding your particular problem, it is very common for the flexible rubber hoses (at each front wheel and in front of the differential) to become swollen shut. They may appear fine externally, but the internal lining collapses and blocks fluid flow. And sometimes the flexible hoses allow flow OUT to the caliper or wheel cylinder, but not BACK (as in a check valve effect) so that the wheel might stay locked. This can be misdiagnosed as a seized caliper or wheel cylinder.

So replace all THREE flexible hoses. It is possible that the steel lines are corroded internally, but this is unusual. Just make sure that they are thoroughly flushed, with lots of clean brake fluid, or even better, butyl (NOT methyl) alcohol.

HTH.
 

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Hi Jared!
Glad to see you have chosen well in your decision to get an Opel.
Always remember that necesity is the mother of invention so when you need to do something and you don't have the tools, think about it and use your imagination. You will be surprised what you can accomplish using this formula. But always be safe and care for the safety of others as well.

First, just because the master cylinder shoots a nice stream when the line is off does not mean that it is good. You have internal seals that virtually die of old age when not in use for long periods of time. Old brake fluid creates a brittle gum residue which cause voids on the seals and creates loss of pressure. I would invest about $6.00 in a little pressure gauge and see what it reads when you press the pedal.

Second, all rubber hoses have to go. You can get them at OGTS or at any auto parts store for about $16.00 each. Email me if you need the part number.

Third, if you don't have an air supply (compressor), you can use a bicycle pump to clean out the metal brake lines and the rear T-connector. Brake lines are not expensive, just time consuming to perform all of the bends so replacing a few clogged links should not cost very much.

Brakes are your life line when driving at any speed so please do not take any short cuts to get the car out on the street.

Enjoy your new adventure.
J blanco
gt brake man
 

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Is there a way to tell if the brake lines a fairly new? The PO replaced all brakes in 2001. Don't know if he did lines, and brakes are not very good, they are pushed to floor almost before they stop. How often should this be done? Would this have anything to do with my back wheels being so tight??
 

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Solo II is fun in a GT!
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Chances are the PO did not change the 3 rubber brake lines. Most folks don't change them. Most folks also don't keep a car as long as we do. $16 a line adds up to some cheap insurance.

Speaking of cheap insurance... remember to flush/ bleed the brake system with plenty of fresh brake fluid. And flush/ renew the fluid once a year.
 

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Took car to brake shop down here today. The guy did an all around check of brakes, hoses, etc...and he said it was all new. He took of booster hose to see if there was vacuum there and it was.

Still my brakes don't feel real good. He mentioned the booster being bad??? or possibly master cylinder, but that the brake pedal usually felt different it it was that.

Anyone have problem with the booster??
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i did get my brakes figured out today. the passenger side front had the rubber flex hose plugged up........i dont know what it was but you could force fluid through it but it would not release pressure. same with the back it would not alow fluid to pass to the back wheels. quick and easy fix. brakes work like new just too bad my dad mighta toasted my motor tonight tho.:mad:
 

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Solo II is fun in a GT!
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Jenn, I have never had a problem with the brake booster before. I've been lucky.

If your brakes are feeling spongy or pedal to the floor untill you can pump it up. Try bleeding the brakes. Bleed them untill you get fresh clean fluid. My Uncle Joe changes the brake fluid in all his customer's cars at his MB shop every spring. Say's it is the 'Benz way'. (stupid Zen Buddhist Kraut).
 

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J Blanko wrote ->Third, if you don't have an air supply
>(compressor), you can use a bicycle pump to
>clean out the metal brake lines and the rear T-
>connector.

How do you do this? I currently have the rear hose out and the calipers off (but the hoses in the front on). Where do I hook the compressor up to? and do I have to take off the front hoses? if possible could you show a pic of where I hook it up at? I'm more visual when it comes to cars. :confused:

Thank you!

Heather V. Havel
1970 Opel GT
 

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Just remember everyone to check the old vacuum line
that runs from the booster to the carb. Mine had cracks
in it that could not be seen because of the hose covering.
I replaced the hose and everything is fine.........

Stanley_P
 
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