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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
not driving. i had to remake the passenger side mount as i have gone back to using the stock bmw exhaust manifold, and it would not fit with the existing mount. also in the video i posted it had a bad miss that was caused by having coils 3 and 4 swapped. It now runs and revs great. i am working on getting the clutch working with a honda intended cable to hydraulic converter. I recently re-arranged the fuel system to use a surge tank/swirl pot to feed a high pressure pump under the hood. I installed the radiator and hoses this past weekend luckily everything fits i will be using a pusher fan on the front hopefully its enough. I need to figure out how to adapt the heater hoses as they are much larger on this engine than in the manta. I am also learning a little bit about electronics and hope to build a device that will run my stock mechanical opel speedo with an electric motor because the transmission has no provision for a mechanical speedo. I will eventually need to measure and have a driveshaft made but thats going to be one of the last things on the list. My goal is to have it driving by my birthday in july there really isn't much left, but i don't work on it every weekend.
 

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Opeler
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369 Posts
Why a cable to hydraulic setup for the clutch? Do you not have enough room to install a hydraulic clutch master cylinder? For your speedo you may want to look at Ron's "Willit" thread. He found a place that makes electric to mechanical speedo conversion boxes. I think it cost him about $500 for the box though.
 

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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
after its drivable i might cut up the firewall and put in a hydraulic master cylinder. as it sits i haven't done anything to the body or chassis that isn't completely reversible, and i kinda want to keep it that way. The box you are talking about is probably the Abbott Cable X they are about $400. from reviews i have read are very loud the needle bounces a lot and do not read correctly until about 20mph. i am going to try to make a somewhat simpler design that is quieter and more accurate. there is another company terf inc. that makes one for $140, but haven't seen any reviews on it. i have about $40 in parts so far for my circuit and motor. i am using a somewhat expensive dev board called an arduino which was most of the cost. but, once i get the programming right i can burn it on a cheap chip and have next to nothing into the conversion.
 

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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Got the shifter welded up and tested. It hits all the gears and comes up in the middle of the console hole. I'll probably have to get some kind of extended lever like the stock opel shifter. the stock bmw lever is a little bit of a reach. I got the heater hoses all hooked up. I haven't been able to run it up to temperature yet because i've got to get some kind of muffler. its straight header right now, and Its too loud to run for more than a few minutes at a time in my neighborhood. i also temporarily installed my clutch conversion but the slave is leaking, but i've got a new slave on the way. I guess thats it for now. should have it ready for driveshaft measuring soon.



 

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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Installed the new slave just to find out the master that came with the honda cable to hydraulic converter is too small. I ordered the correct size master it will be here on the 30th. The welding on my passenger side motor mount is complete. I Bought a muffler and temporarily attached to the end of the header for running it up to temperature. I used a piece of the chopped shift linkage to make a throttle cable spacer to use the stock Opel cable with the Bmw engine.
I am Going to be dropping my bmw driveshaft off next week to have that lengthened. does anyone know what i should ask for on the Opel Side of the driveshaft as far as the U-joint is concerned? I want it to be rebuildable and still bolt to the Opel torque tube shaft. i was planning on taking the torque tube shaft, opel DS, and BMW DS then have them figure it out. If someone knows the specifics it would be nice to be able to tell them exactly what i need. I would rather not mess with the plastic injection U-joints.

If nothing major comes up it looks like ill be test driving in a week or two.
 

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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
its been a while but i'm still working on this off and on. Here is some progress i have made


cleaning up the wiring

pulling the rear for new bushings, shocks, and seals

Broken spring


moving to the third garage since the project started

Konis
 

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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
sandblasted and painted rear parts


Driveshaft complete

I ended up using an adapter like this for the BMW transmission flange


It moves.
Manta on the move. - YouTube

i didn't drive it far because i am pulling the Ebrake. i was waiting on parts to fix the rear brakes. this past weekend i hooked up the rear brakes, bled them and drove it around the block. Sorry no video. There are a few things left before i can really drive it, but it should be out and about this spring.
 

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Army Rotorhead
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432 Posts
This is great! It is really making me rethink my project GT.

What year was the car the engine came from?

If you don't mind me asking, what do you have invested in the project?

Thanks,
AV8R
 

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Super Moderator
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9,670 Posts
This is great! It is really making me rethink my project GT.

What year was the car the engine came from?

If you don't mind me asking, what do you have invested in the project?

Thanks,
AV8R
Lance;
Not wanting to burst your bubble, but, you have to remember, this conversion was into a Manta, it may not be as easy, if not impossible into a GT. I would check measurements and such first
 

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Opeler
Joined
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
This is great! It is really making me rethink my project GT.

What year was the car the engine came from?

If you don't mind me asking, what do you have invested in the project?

Thanks,
AV8R

I pulled the engine from a 1991 BMW 318i. for a GT you might want to get a 93+ oil pan because they are rear sump. also the intake manifold makes this a tall motor even angled to the side so it might be a tight fit in the GT. but it shouldn't be hard to have a new upper intake manifold made as the injectors are all contained in the lower intake. i have probably $1200 or so into this project so far. the motor trans and wiring harness were free though.
 

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Opeler
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Here are some not very good pictures of measurements when i first pulled the motor hope it helps.




 

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Registered
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1,872 Posts
Awsome engine swap.........Like your work......Enough said........:cool:
 

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Registered
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1,611 Posts
What is the point of going to all the trouble of fitting a different brand of motor into an Opel... When you can get a souped up 2.4 Opel motor that will fit in with only minor upgrades needed?? :banghead:
 

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Non Civilian
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2,084 Posts
What is the point of going to all the trouble of fitting a different brand of motor into an Opel... When you can get a souped up 2.4 Opel motor that will fit in with only minor upgrades needed?? :banghead:
Because you can. Not everyone likes to fit in the confines that the Opel authorities have deemed as proper.

It's just like someone telling me: "Why build a 2.4L from scratch and not using Opel parts when you can just buy one from OGTS?"

Because I don't want to. Because I want to be different. Because I want to expand my engine building and fabrication knowledge. Not a mind numbed robot that fits in a mold with everybody else.
 

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Registered
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1,611 Posts
Thinking outside the box and being original is excellent. Going out of your way to reinvent the wheel only to find out other options were available..... not logical to me. :no:

If I was going to go to all the trouble of dropping a non Opel motor into a GT or Manta then I would be sure that the outcome was WELL worth it... not just a few more horsepower.

Work smarter... not harder.
 
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