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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
What is the point of going to all the trouble of fitting a different brand of motor into an Opel... When you can get a souped up 2.4 Opel motor that will fit in with only minor upgrades needed?? :banghead:
this was a low compression car it maybe had 70hp at the crank. Not only have i doubled that output by fitting this engine, i have also added a 5th gear, modern injection/ignition, and replacement parts are easy to get. there are also a few options for much more power.
Plus i challenged myself, and learned several new skills. I don't think anyone could build a higher horsepower 2.4 with a getrag for double or maybe even triple what i have spent on this swap.
 

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Opeler
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How did you work around the speedsignal the m42 ecu needs ? If it is missing that the engine is not making full power ..

Regards, jeejee
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #65
How did you work around the speedsignal the m42 ecu needs ? If it is missing that the engine is not making full power ..

Regards, jeejee
I could be wrong but i believe the E30 M42 with Motronic 1.7 and the 175 DME does not cut power or go to limp mode with a missing speed signal. I know that it revs out and feels strong but i guess i won't know for sure till i can get it on a dyno. I have been driving it around and it feels the same as my e30. I do have an aftermarket chip so that may have something to do with it. After some research it looks like the E36 M42/M44 does go into limp mode when the speed signal is missing.
 

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... I do have an aftermarket chip so that may have something to do with it. After some research it looks like the E36 M42/M44 does go into limp mode when the speed signal is missing.
I turned the VSS function off on my EEC-IV conversion...auto trans - manual.
So now the fuel cut is based on engine rpm vs TPS position.
Lets say for example
Engine RPM is 3800
And the 'puter sees idle <.98v on the tps.
Fuel cut till engine rpm is ~ 1500-1800
 

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Did you manage to use it a fare bit before parking it?
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #70
I drove it a few hundred miles. But it needed a front suspension overhaul. I bought and renovated a house and kinda left it sitting in storage. I’m now going through everything it needs.

The intercooler is a Kia Optima intercooler. With a little modification it fits right in the radiator shroud. Using a 90s civic radiator allows the piping to go around the radiator. With the new intake manifold the intercooler pipes will be around 20” total.
 

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I'm running the same radiator as you on my uped up Opel 2L build. I really doubt that tiny rad can keep up to your bad ass BMW turbo build requirements....
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #72
I'm running the same radiator as you on my uped up Opel 2L build. I really doubt that tiny rad can keep up to your bad ass BMW turbo build requirements....

You may be surprised how many 400+ hp civics there are that use the same radiator.

I am waiting on fuel fittings but will hopefully have the first start up next weekend.
 

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You may be surprised how many 400+ hp civics there are that use the same radiator.

I am waiting on fuel fittings but will hopefully have the first start up next weekend.
And I'm sure they all overheat on super hot days in stop and go traffic...lol

I'm not knocking your set up. It's really cool you made that swap happen!

keep us posted on your progress
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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With the electric fan it will likley be OK in hot traffic Now, a few hundred HP down the 1/8 mile drag strip is not the same as long hard use. But a good fan setup will can make all the difference. You would be surprised how well my Mitsubishi Starion rally car with 14-15 psi boost on 2.6L will stay reasonably cool on rally stages. Never overheated. Good fan blade design on a dual stage stock fan, with a stock rad.

So what boost level and boost control are you planning? Looks like you have a wastegate setup ready.
 

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Opeler
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
With the electric fan it will likley be OK in hot traffic Now, a few hundred HP down the 1/8 mile drag strip is not the same as long hard use. But a good fan setup will can make all the difference. You would be surprised how well my Mitsubishi Starion rally car with 14-15 psi boost on 2.6L will stay reasonably cool on rally stages. Never overheated. Good fan blade design on a dual stage stock fan, with a stock rad.

So what boost level and boost control are you planning? Looks like you have a wastegate setup ready.
The turbo is small, td04-13t. I believe the top end of its efficiency is around 20psi. I will eventually push it to that. Currently I have an 8psi spring in the waste gate and will start there.

While doing all of this I am setting up a fairly new on the scene diy ecu. RusEfi it is an STM32 based programmable ecu. Boost control will be handled by the ecu with a MAC 3port solenoid. I am also moving over to DBW and speed density based fueling.

I am still waiting on parts to start it so it will be a little longer. I am also waiting on K.A.W. Springs from Germany which have been held up because of covid. I am hoping first drive will be by the end of June.

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Very nice!
 
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The turbo is small, td04-13t. I believe the top end of its efficiency is around 20psi. I will eventually push it to that. Currently I have an 8psi spring in the waste gate and will start there
Looks like a stock Subaru turbo. I think you’ll find they are struggling to push any real air after 17-18 psi. I used to work at a Subaru tuning shop, and though some guys ran 20-22 psi max they all tapered off to 17-18 psi above max torque to reduce heat, because that’s all they made at that boost level!

That said, I’ve seen 280 WHP and 345 w/torque on a TD04 on a 2.5 liter engine. 5500 rpms was all they needed to be revved to.

You can get a tiny bit more out of it by porting and Extrude-honing the turbine housing, but the latter process might not be cost effective for you.
 
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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #79
Looks like a stock Subaru turbo. I think you’ll find they are struggling to push any real air after 17-18 psi. I used to work at a Subaru tuning shop, and though some guys ran 20-22 psi max they all tapered off to 17-18 psi above max torque to reduce heat, because that’s all they made at that boost level!

That said, I’ve seen 280 WHP and 345 w/torque on a TD04 on a 2.5 liter engine. 5500 rpms was all they needed to be revved to.

You can get a tiny bit more out of it by porting and Extrude-honing the turbine housing, but the latter process might not be cost effective for you.
Thank you for the great info! I am not really going for high hp on this car. I am mostly looking for a broad usable power band. I can’t find anyone with this motor turbo combination. So I will want to see how it behaves. If it runs out of steam too much up top, I may to move up to a td05.
 

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Thank you for the great info! I am not really going for high hp on this car. I am mostly looking for a broad usable power band. I can’t find anyone with this motor turbo combination. So I will want to see how it behaves. If it runs out of steam too much up top, I may to move up to a td05.
Given the redline of that engine, engine displacement, and overall mass airflow I think the TD04 should be great for the street

The TD05 is a comparatively huge step up, if you want more but still want it very responsive, look into a VF39 from an older STI. It’s a direct bolt-up still. Their biggest issue is the VF39 turbine housings get cracks near the waste gate flap. Since you are running an external gate anyway, you can just block off the stock wastegate or weld it up.
 
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