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Resident Whippersnapper
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. Quick rear brake shoe replacement thread here, pic by pic.

1. Assemble the shoes/parking brake linkage/springs as one unit.

Driver/passenger sides are different. The arm for the E-brake goes on the rear shoe.
 

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Resident Whippersnapper
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Discussion Starter #2
2. Attach the slave cylinder, but don't put the shiny metal pieces in them yet. Make sure the eccentric adjusters' pins (turned by 17mm socket) are facing inwards completely. Remove the e-brake equalizer or adjust to where you have plenty of slack in the cable.

3. Then move the e-brake cable out of the way, get the shoe assembly, and pop the bottom part in. First the spring, then move the bottoms of the shoes to where they hold on. Then work the shoes into place at the top.

4. Grab the shiny metal pieces for the slave cylinders, wrench the shoes apart, then pop the pieces in; one, then the other.

5. Make sure the cable's slack, then pull the lever on the brake shoe forward, and work the cable on.
 

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Resident Whippersnapper
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Discussion Starter #5
Last part, as promised:

Put a pin into the backing plate on both sides (of the same backing plate). Then lightly grab the retainer cup with a pair of locking pliers, enough to grip it, but not to crush it.

Pop the spring on, then line up the slot in the cup with the pin, then push the cup on while holding the pin from the back.

Once the pin is in, give the it a quarter turn in any direction to lock it.

Then look to make sure it's locked, wiggle the cup & spring to "settle" them, then rinse & repeat.

Took me 10 minutes to do both sides in the rain.
 

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Opeler
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Don't forget to add a small amount of grease/anit-seize to each of the I believe six contact points on the backing plate before you put the brakes shoes on.
 

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Hi guys. Quick rear brake shoe replacement thread here, pic by pic.

1. Assemble the shoes/parking brake linkage/springs as one unit.

Driver/passenger sides are different. The arm for the E-brake goes on the rear shoe.
Hi Alex,
Nice tutorial, just what I'm looking for.
To toke the springs out, you have used any specific tool?
Can you give any tips about this?
Cheers
Fernando
 

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I just pry them off with a big screwdriver. They won't break.

Alex's method avoids the always fun part of replacing shoes, which is to stretch the springs back on with the shoes in place. It's best part of the job so taking that away will mean you won't have skinned knuckles when you are done. Reversing his order would work also. There are inexpensive tools for working on drum brakes. There is one for the retainer cups that really does make it easy.
 

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I just pry them off with a big screwdriver. They won't break.

Alex's method avoids the always fun part of replacing shoes, which is to stretch the springs back on with the shoes in place. It's best part of the job so taking that away will mean you won't have skinned knuckles when you are done. Reversing his order would work also. There are inexpensive tools for working on drum brakes. There is one for the retainer cups that really does make it easy.
I have a new kit of springs and clips, so the no problem if I damage the old springs.
It's the first time I'm doing this, so I will try Alex's method, I don't have any specific tools.

Thanks
 

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No problem to take she shoes out, the cylinder bolts and line neither, the cylinders says he's been there for 43 years and there's nothing to get out of there :ugh:
Some WD40 and a rubber hammer, problem solved!
 

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Don't forget to add a small amount of grease/anit-seize to each of the I believe six contact points on the backing plate before you put the brakes shoes on.
I should use copper grease or can I use regular (lithium) grease?
Have you had problems with the fit of the shoe lever on the brake cable hole?
 

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Über Genius
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Just a heads up on the rear brake cylinders

IDK if you’re doing a typical rear brake job or not. Hopefully if so you’ve replaced the rear wheel cylinders as part of the job. In my experience they’ll leak because putting new pads or shoes drives the seals closer towards the middle of the cylinders exposing the pitted walls of the cylinders that used to be inside of the brake fluid chamber. Unless the cylinders are relatively new or you’ve been bleeding the brake system religiously on an annual basis. I just replace the cylinders at each brake job after many failed initial attempts and I’ve had to discard brand new brake shoes due to being saturated with brake fluid. Where with other vehicles you might get away with it, Opel rear wheel cylinders are notoriously made with a lower grade metal that pits easily. The master cylinder and front calipers don’t seem to have the same issue.
 

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Resident Whippersnapper
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
What about grinding the hook on the parking brake lever to make it thinner? Seems like an easier job than trying to remove the rivet.

As far as removing the spring cups, spray everything down with a brake solvent first to remove any dust/asbestos, then use gloved hands to hold the pin on the backing plate down; then push the cup on the front down and give it a quarter-turn.

It should come apart after this.
 

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Opeler
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brake shoe lever swap

Would anyone know how to swap the brake shoe parking brake lever? The pins are pressed in and flared at the end. I would have to destroy them in order to change the levers. Is there something I can replace the pins with?
 
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