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Detritus Maximus
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Sometime in 86 or 87 there was an article in Thoroughbred and Classic Cars (British magazine) about a guy in the UK restoring a GT. He converted that one to RHD. It was blue and I think he retrimmed the entire interior in a nice grey. I know I have the magazine somewhere...
 
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Vendor
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Earlier thread.
 

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Gordon, having a heck of a time getting a hold of you. Not too good at this computer stuff. I looked at your recommendations for under the hood of my GT. I ordered a stainless steel top radiator hose. I also want a cold air intake, so far I have found about 4 million of them. What did you use? Did you have to make many adjustments to the cold air intake, or was it pretty straight forward? Let me know what you recommend for it.

Bob
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gordon, having a heck of a time getting a hold of you. Not too good at this computer stuff. I looked at your recommendations for under the hood of my GT. I ordered a stainless steel top radiator hose. I also want a cold air intake, so far I have found about 4 million of them. What did you use? Did you have to make many adjustments to the cold air intake, or was it pretty straight forward? Let me know what you recommend for it.

Bob

Okay, so, as an FYI, I don't like the chromed plastic hose clamp covers that come with the flexible stainless radiator and heater hoses. They make it a real PIA to tighten the hose clamps and restrict bending of the flexible SS hose. You will just barely be able to bend the top hose enough to not hit the valve cover. You may have to trim the rubber hose coupling and skew the SS flex hose within it to get a favorable angle. To bend the flex hose as sharp as possible I stick a hammer or screwdriver handle in it to assist in the bending. You will probably have to trim the hose, I use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel, then a round file to smooth the cut edge and get rid of burrs and loose metal. Cut straight through at the indented areas. Those SS flex hoses are not spiral wound, they are like an accordion......a series of rings. That's how they maintain their seal.

The chromed plastic cold air intake pipe is 3" and comes in various lengths, plus 90*, 60*, 45*, 30* angled elbows. They are made by a company called "Spectre". They sell a red urethane 4" long flexy soft coupling for applications that need that. The oem black accordion-like flexy hose our cars come with can be stretched to fit over the chromed pipe. You might have to trim off the flared end of the pipe to slide it on. The spiderweb-patterned round aluminum carb cover is part of the "Weber snorkel kit" and comes with a nice long black accordion hose that can also be slid over the chrome cold air intake pipe. The chromed plastic cold air intake piping comes with chromed plastic clamps to join them together with very small diameter rubber rings for extra sealing assurance. I find these to be a PIA to work with and throw them away. the clamps seal things good enough.

Then there is the filter to decide on. Basically, they are made by K+N, but there are ones that look just like them that don't say K+N on them. It doesn't matter, they are all the same. They are basically a washable filter that you can spray some sort of thin oil they sell to make them filter better. As little as we drive our cars, I haven't felt the need to wash them or re-oil them yet after 4-5 years. The filters come in a plethora of different shapes and sizes ranging from long and skinny to short and large diameter round. A good size for our cars is about 5" round x 5"-6" tall. You can go shorter/smaller if you want, especially if you want it to fit in that area just in front of the radiator on the passenger side, but I wouldn't go longer/wider than 6", better to stay in the 5"x5" sizing range. Nothing says that you have to tuck the filter into that tight spot. The hood hinge can sometimes hit the filter. You can decide to mix and match rubber flex hoses and plastic couplings to route the cold air intake piping to wherever you want the filter to be. You could route it straight down, so that the filter is laying on the belly pan or all the way forward so that the filter is pressing against the grill. All sorts of configurations are possible, I have done all sorts of different configurations. The more chromy pipe you use the cooler it all looks. If you detect vibration of the plastic against metal, just shim or buffer things with bits of rubber, bicycle inner tube, foam, etc.

You can keep your existing oem carb top duct adapter or get the snorkel kit. Here is a Weber snorkel kit on Ebay:


Here is a nice Spectre kit on Ebay that has a whole bunch of the different parts you can mix and match and a filter. This look like a very good deal and should do the trick for you:

 

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Old thread I know, but my gt was converted RHD before I got it but it was very poorly done.

The centre gauges pointed at the passenger.

The brake master cyl had been move to the right side and the activating rod was too short and fell into 2 when I cracked the locking nut, must have been in less than 1/4 thread.

It was auto and had the brake pedal assembly cut out of the floor on and screwed with timber self tappers on the right.

The engine mounts both had plates added pushing it 2" to the left, don't no why it still fitted when removed.

I ripped it all out and fitted a Isuzu Gemini manual pedal assemlby, front end (similar kadet C I think) And a wagon rear end which almost bolted straight in. and Holden Torana gear box length and spline matched the auto.

Got it all approved and registered.
 
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