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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #1
Well I thought I'd start a new thread on another GT restoration project. So a friend of mine at work who has seen my GT and tells me he used to have one back in his college days calls me up about 18 months ago and says he has another friend who has a GT in his garage and plans to restore it. I said great!...another local GT project! So I got in touch with the gentlemen and asked about it. It wasn't for sale at that time but I offered to help in any way I could. About a year goes by and I get an email from the owner saying he just didn't have time to restore the car and I could buy it if I wanted to. Now since my son and I had planned to build a GT one day here was the opportunity. Made a visit to see the car and it was solid but pretty much stripped down. Rolling chassis, all there, zero interior, no dash or instrument panel. But as we all know all that can be fixed if the body is solid. I did detect some body work here and there and some evidence of rust but it looked solid enough for a restoration project. Made the deal and brought it home. Here are some pics of the car.

This was about 4 months ago and we've stripped it all down and begun some initial work. More postings coming soon.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #2
By the way my son's name is Forrest, thus his call sign BubbaGump. Here are some more pics of the car back home. The car will need a complete rewiring job as it is REALLY bad. Classic headlight wire corrosion and signs of burnt insulation! Pretty scary as this could have been another GT fire story.
 

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RunOpel
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Way to go Mike. What year GT is it and how much did you have to pay and did it come with the dash and/or other parts that were taken off? Sounds like a fun project with your son.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks! It is another 70 originally yellow paint. Ironic as that is the same year and color of my GT. We paid a fair price for the car considering it needs a complete restoration. All the mechanics are there and we got it started before tearing it apart. Had to run clean fuel from a gas can through an electric pump I had a spare of. It had the stock mechanical fuel pump which I'm sure was toast along with whatever was left in the lines and filter. Didn't even want to try to run gas from the tank through all that. Anyway the engine sounding pretty good with no missing! So our plan is to clean up the drive train, put new seals and a few gaskets hear and there and reinstall without an engine rebuild. If we have to rebuild down the road we can do that.

Just got done building a rotisserie and I'll post pictures of how I did that. Pretty much like others have done it but with stiffening ideas I came up with.
 

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Hey guys. Dad and I have been talking about doing a Opel GT for years (since I was a kid). Well its finally has happened. We had the the engine bay area and front headlight buckets media blasted instead of spending every bit of a week to strip the engine bay area by hand. To seal the metal we used a itching primer and then a 2k primer on top of that. Here are some pictures of the engine bay area and front headlight buckets.
 

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RunOpel
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Wow what a difference that makes :) going to look super when you finish.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #9
The etching primer is highly recommended for bare metal but requires top coating within 24 hours or you have to scuff it up again. So that's why the regular primer on top of the etching primer. Will still need to do a light sanding on the primer before the base coat but that will be a while from now.

Forrest and I built our own rotisserie over the last couple weeks and finally got the car on it Friday evening. Wow this so much easier to work on the body and underside than crawling underneath with crap falling on your face! Here are some pictures of the rotisserie.
 

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The etching primer is highly recommended for bare metal but requires top coating within 24 hours or you have to scuff it up again. So that's why the regular primer on top of the etching primer. Will still need to do a light sanding on the primer before the base coat but that will be a while from now.

Forrest and I built our own rotisserie over the last couple weeks and finally got the car on it Friday evening. Wow this so much easier to work on the body and underside than crawling underneath with crap falling on your face! Here are some pictures of the rotisserie.
As a future FYI, the car restoration industry has pretty much abandoned etching primers (which by definition are acidic) and gone exclusively to "self-etching epoxy" primers. Far far better corrosion resistance, can apply filler to them (NOT to old school etching or any non-epoxy primer), far better primer-filler and paint adherence, can be left un-coated for very long periods of time without corrosion concerns, and just better in every way.

Nice work on the rotisserie attachment brackets. Probably (well, definitely) some over-kill as far as strength. For reference, have a look at Home Built Body Rotisserie But what you have should work very well. And I concur, there is NO other way to do a proper restoration than with a rotisserie!
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Keith. I used the PPG epoxy primers about 2o years ago but the local paint store convinced me on the etching primer. Maybe that's just he wanted to sell. If you have any product to recommend I sure would appreciate it. We have lots of body work still to do!

I did look through all the other rotisserie threads and built the wooden 90 degree rotator about three years ago when I restored my 70 GT but we decided to go the full 360 degree style this time! After reading through all the other threads I sort of put the ideas together and added the extra long braces up to more solid frame connections. I usually over-engineer things just to be safe! We did find more rust on the bottom than originally thought ........so what's new on a GT! Will have to do some cutting and welding here and there but all in all it is a very solid body.
 

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Thanks Keith. I used the PPG epoxy primers about 20 years ago but the local paint store convinced me on the etching primer. Maybe that's just he wanted to sell. If you have any product to recommend I sure would appreciate it. We have lots of body work still to do!
Very odd that a paint store would suggest etching primer over epoxy, but maybe they had a reason. Since I started doing my own body work in a serious way a couple of years ago, I've been hanging around a couple of auto restoration painters and a couple of Facebook pages of professional auto-body painting guys. Except for the very old school guys who just won't change: "...in forty years of auto insurance repairs, I have never had a problem...". But then you find out that insurance repairs are always done as inexpensively as possible, not as good as possible. And if it lasts only one day past two years, the painter doesn't care. I do though.

Back in 2008, I used RM's EP589 low VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) epoxy primer, which is what the first two or three coats on my car is, including the first coat after sandblasting the ENTIRE car to bare metal. But by current standards, that isn't a low-enough VOC, so my paint jobber recommended Limco's LP20 Epoxy primer. I shot several more coats of that, followed by Xtreme's DTM (Direct to Metal) Hybrid, essentially a mix of epoxy and urethane, only because I had managed to block down to bare metal in a couple of spots and I had run out of epoxy. Then two coats of high-build urethane 2K. The my painter blocked it all again (I am a "good enough" body guy, and he has higher standards!) followed by sealer and then a high-solids Sikkens urethane base/clear system.

In fairness, there are a number of very good products out there. Price is relevant, as good paint is not cheap. I've used most of the BASF line (RM, Glasurit, Limco) and they have all been good. My painter swears by Sikkens. Swears at Valspar... He used to shoot AkzoNobel, and says it was good, but he liked Sikkens better

The Sikkens paint system turned out pretty good....
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #13
We have a Sherwin Williiams auto paint store very close to us and not much more so we've relied on them for advice on products. Any thoughts on their products?
 

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We have a Sherwin Williiams auto paint store very close to us and not much more so we've relied on them for advice on products. Any thoughts on their products?
They seem to be a reasonably large supplier of automotive paint products, even in Canada. They even have an automotive body & paint training centre here in Calgary.

I may just not have happened across them, as I don't do this for a living. In fact, I am looking at my current inventory of auto body products and paint, and wondering if I really need to keep any of it around. Getting my car finished feels like the end of a long journey, and I am not feeling like getting behind that wheel again anytime soon.

But I am really questioning your local store's recommendation of etching primer on a car restoration. I think you may have answered your own question.
 

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RunOpel
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Mike the rotisserie you built is nice :) and definitely makes working on the GT a lot easier.
Keith the paint on your GT looks awesome. Is that flaming red? My GT looks the same color which is original flaming red.
 

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Keith the paint on your GT looks awesome. Is that flaming red? My GT looks the same color which is original flaming red.
Opel FireGlow Orange, Opel 529, or GM XX, paint matched to ColorMap / Akzo Code: CM412D5:
Sikkens: SIKD050073
Ditzler PPG: 60620;
Dupont: 33005L, 33005D, 33012L, 33012D;
Sherwin Williams: 4247, 4248
Acme Rogers: 90775
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #17
Spent late yesterday after the food settled power washing and scraping what appeared to be cheap tar off the bottom. Good progress but still lots to do on the bottom of the car. The rotisserie works great and is plenty solid! Nice casters on the bottom make rolling it around also a piece of cake.
 

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Your rotisserie is made out of wood? o_O

I'm running out of reasons not to build my own. A few bucks in lumber, 12 bolts, plus the internal steel. Hmm. Tempting.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #19
The supports are made of 4x4s with doubled up 2x4 bracing and hex bolts with large washers at the joints. 3/4" plywood doublers in the corners front and back. Thus the A-frames are very strong, totally overkill for this light car. I saw this concept on another site and thought it was a good compromise from welding up a bunch of steel. I have no concerns about the strength of this rig. The bare GT shell is probably less than 800 lbs and my son and I even picked up each end to place on the frames.
 
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