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Discussion Starter #1
I lost my turn signals lights after and dashboard lights after signaling a turn. While tracing the issue I noticed the flasher socket was burned and melted and the #7 fuse kept blowing. My car has (had?) the original circular aluminum flasher.

Is the fix as simple as replacing the socket and putting in a the OGTS replacement flasher? Would the burned base be a symptom of the original flasher finally giving up or is it more likely an issue elsewhere that caused the socket to burn?

Thanks in advance.

Matt


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What model car? Is it a GT or another model. This can make a difference. Also, what year? This too can make a difference. The reason I ask is that, looking at the 1973 GT schematic, the #7 fuse is not involved in the circuit at all. Cannot begin to scope out the issue until we know what schematic to look at.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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Whne you say 'dashboard light' do you mean the turn signal lights in the dash or all dash lights?

First, shake the flasher unit to see if there are any loose pieces rattling around inside. If so, that is not a good sign!

Then, I would check the wires to the flasher socket for shorts; just for some confidence in their integrity. The below info is working off of the '71 GT information.
  • Pull the fuses the #5 and #7 positions counting from the left on the schematic, which relates to how the OP is numbering the #7 fuse (or #2 and #4 from the right on the schematic). This kills all power that feeds the direction signal and emergency flasher circuits.
  • Check each prong in the flasher socket for 12v to ground; you should find no prongs with 12v on them with those fuses out; you don't want to apply any voltage to the meter when in ohmeter mode.
  • Make sure the emergency flasher is off.
  • Then switch to ohmeter mode, select the lowest resistance scale, touch the meter leads together to see what the meter registers when it is supposedly reading 0 ohms, and make a note of that.
  • Measure the resistance from each of the flasher socket prongs to ground to see if there is a shorted wire; which would be indicated by 0 ohms or very close to 0 ohms. If the turn signal is in the center (off) position, then you will find some low resistances (a few ohms) to ground on one or more prongs, like the black/yellow wire and perhaps the black/white/green wire too. But you should not find 0 resistance to ground on any prong.
  • The black/white/green wire ought to show a drop in measured resistance to ground if you select either the L or R turn signal. But again, it should not show 0 ohms to ground when either turn signal is selected.
 

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Then, I would check the wires to the flasher socket for shorts; just for some confidence in their integrity. The below info is working off of the '71 GT information.
  • Pull that #7 fuse and also the #9 fuse. This kills all power that feeds the direction signal and emergency flasher circuits.
I don't mean to be rude or to step on any toes, but #9 fuse? My 1971 GT and its FSM only show 7 fuses. According to my diagram, the #2 fuse (counting over from the right-hand side of the diagram but the left side -- Door side -- of the fuse box as it actually sits under the dash) controls the turn signals and the #4 fuse controls the hazard flashers.
 

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No, you're not being rude at all, Michael. Yea, I am just counting positions starting from the left side on the schematic, which includes the studs in the middle.... certainly a mistake on my part. It would be the #5 and #7 positions from the left on the schmatic (which relates to how the OP is numbering the #7 fuse), and #2 and #4 from the right on the schematic.

I'll correct my post above; thanks!
 

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What does confuse me is that, according to my schematic, the #7 fuse (or #1, depending on where you start counting) is not part of the turn signal/hazard flasher systems that are fused by #2 and #4.
 

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Yeah, I can see that.....perhaps the OP is counting 'positions' in a different fashion. I was counting the terminals at the far end as a position. That's not correct as to fuse numbering.

Now the OP did say that his 'dashboard lights' went out, which is why I asked exactly what he meant by that. The 7th fuse position from the right supplies the dash lights..... And yes it is not part of the flasher system but if something is shorted, like a couple of wires in the dash harness, just about any circuit can dump into another circuit....

And again, I only have 1 year of diagram. So we're shooting in the dark....
 

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I would venture to believe if the socket was melted there's high probability there's melted wires as well which may explain continuous blowing of fuses
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Sorry! I forgot the important details. The car is a 1969 GT 1.9. I added the ignition relay, a fuse for the headlights and a new ignition wires on the steering column but the original electrical system is (was) essentially intact. Grounds are good.

The instrument illumination lights on the entire dash stopped working when the fuse blew, otherwise the instruments displayed info as usual. The haz flasher switch also is not working. It never worked great and has always been very stiff and hard to press but did work previously. Not sure it matters but I did have the double flash problem prior to the meltdown.

The #7 fuse description is from the OGTS electrical tech note; I.e. the rightmost fuse from the driver’s door.

Manta Rallier. Thanks for the procedure. I will run the checks. I do know the original aluminum flasher rattles when I shake it...

Matt


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A few more questions:
1. Is the GT a standard transmission or automatic?

2. How did you fuse the headlamp circuit? Which wire and where is the fused connection?

3. You said the instrument illumination went out when you were signaling a turn. Which direction (this should not matter -- left and right-side signals are on the same circuit but the parking and tail lamps are on different circuits, different fuses)?

4. Can you explain what you mean by "double flash problem"?

Thanks...
 

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Fuse #7 controls both the instrument panel lamps as well as the license plate lamps. If either circuit is bad, the fuse will blow. Given the environment it is in, corrosion in either of the license plate lamps can occur, that would short out this circuit, pulling the instrument panel lamps with it.

The flasher system likely is a separate problem.
 

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I don't ever recall a good flasher unit rattling when shaken. It is an electromechanical part, and if one of the arms fatigues and breaks inside, then that could be the rattle source.

The flasher unit runs both the directional turn signals and flashers. So if it goes, neither of those will work. Sounds like it ought to be replaced.

But how that would burn up the socket, IDK. Is the melting around any particular prong on that socket?

That #7 fuse runs the instrument lamps (via the dimmer rheostat) and the license lamps. With that fuse out, you might want to look for a short to ground on the output of that fuse, wiht the fuse removed. The output side is the one with the smaller wires, both grey/green.
 

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I think the problem with fuse #7 is completely separate from the torched flasher base. I can argue that if one shakes the flasher hard enough, the internal contacts flapping back and forth might sound like loose parts rattling, but not likely. But what confuses me is how the flasher base got torched. The unit is supplied by the #2 and the #4 fuse (depending on whether the turn signals or hazard circuit is being employed. Both are 5-amp fuses that should have blown long before the flasher base melted. The turn signal switch receives current from the ignition switch and I am wondering if the addition of the ignition relay did not inadvertently direct excessive unfused current to the flasher relay, possibly at pin #49a.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
A few more questions:
1. Is the GT a standard transmission or automatic?

2. How did you fuse the headlamp circuit? Which wire and where is the fused connection?

3. You said the instrument illumination went out when you were signaling a turn. Which direction (this should not matter -- left and right-side signals are on the same circuit but the parking and tail lamps are on different circuits, different fuses)?

4. Can you explain what you mean by "double flash problem"?

Thanks...
Thanks again for the help
1. My GT is a manual transmission.

2. I fused the headlights simply by adding an inline fuse on each of the white and yellow wire.

3. fault occurred when I was making a left turn.

4. The “double flash” is when the signals do not flash a single indicator light either left or right on the dash but light both left and right indicator. The rate of flashing is quite fast. I think this is a common problem and means the flasher is going out.

Matt


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Discussion Starter #16

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Fuse #7 controls both the instrument panel lamps as well as the license plate lamps. If either circuit is bad, the fuse will blow. Given the environment it is in, corrosion in either of the license plate lamps can occur, that would short out this circuit, pulling the instrument panel lamps with it.

The flasher system likely is a separate problem.
Agreed. I think you are correct they must be separate issues. I tried to be concise in my initial post but I realize I left off some important info.

Two details:
My electrical system is not complete as I stated. The rear license plate lamps were not working when it happened due to some body damage that is still to be repaired. The housings are off kilter so Ieft them without bulbs until I fix the body damage. I first went through the electrical system over a year ago I checked them and confirmed they were working with a test light. Since I am now driving the car after finally getting it licensed and registered, it is a good bet that the normal vibrations and jolts might have changed this and they did ground or short. I will check this.

Also I have been dealing with an issue with the tach, radio and gas gauge cutting out when I step on the brake. This is a known problem. I cleaned the leads to the fuse (fuse #3 in the OGTS tech notes, the 8 amp fuse) but the problem continued to persist but could be fixed by jiggling the fuse or rotating it in the holder. I actually got into the (bad) habit of fiddling with the fuse while underway which maybe contributed to the issue...


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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
But what confuses me is how the flasher base got torched. The unit is supplied by the #2 and the #4 fuse (depending on whether the turn signals or hazard circuit is being employed. Both are 5-amp fuses that should have blown long before the flasher base melted. The turn signal switch receives current from the ignition switch and I am wondering if the addition of the ignition relay did not inadvertently direct excessive unfused current to the flasher relay, possibly at pin #49a.
Only one of the base pins clearly is melted and I think it is 49a. I haven’t pulled the dash and the colors of the base wires are hard to see but I can see black/green wires running to it which would correspond to 49a in my 1969 wiring diagram (assuming the two wires are actually white/greeen/black). Definitely not red, brown or yellow like the other wires the diagram says are running into the base. For further confirmation the pin is the lone pin offset 90 degrees of the four (on the color 1973 wiring diagram PDF I have it would be correspond to 99a)

So you theory is making sense that the ignition relay ran excess current to the flasher. But if I have the ignition relay wired right, how would it have fried? Me screwing around with the fuse box trying to fix the gas pedal killing the tach issue?


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Agreed. I think you are correct they must be separate issues. I tried to be concise in my initial post but I realize I left off some important info.

Two details:
My electrical system is not complete as I stated. The rear license plate lamps were not working when it happened due to some body damage that is still to be repaired. The housings are off kilter so Ieft them without bulbs until I fix the body damage. I first went through the electrical system over a year ago I checked them and confirmed they were working with a test light. Since I am now driving the car after finally getting it licensed and registered, it is a good bet that the normal vibrations and jolts might have changed this and they did ground or short. I will check this.

Also I have been dealing with an issue with the tach, radio and gas gauge cutting out when I step on the brake. This is a known problem. I cleaned the leads to the fuse (fuse #3 in the OGTS tech notes, the 8 amp fuse) but the problem continued to persist but could be fixed by jiggling the fuse or rotating it in the holder. I actually got into the (bad) habit of fiddling with the fuse while underway which maybe contributed to the issue...


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Don't know how it could be related but my dancing voltmeter caused by putting on the brakes went away after I changed out the voltage regulator and put in a new battery.
 

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But if I have the ignition relay wired right, how would it have fried? Me screwing around with the fuse box trying to fix the gas pedal killing the tach issue?


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What "screwing around" did you do, other than twisting the fuse in its socket? Any wires come off and reattached?

Thanks for all of your answers. I'll be working on this this morning
 
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