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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok guys (and gals) here's the deal. I was just asked for some advice on a cam for an Opel rebuild, and it occured to me that I don't even know where to get one if I were trying to buy it retail. I know there's TGSI, I think Gil has some at OGTS, and the only other one I know how to get ahold of is Paeco.

So here's what I'm looking for, and I think it could be helpful to a lot of people: If you've purchased any sort of "performance" or even replacement cam for your Opel, could you post the following so we can create some sort of data base:

Cam grind identification
Retailer
Part #
Specifications
Cost, and date of that price
Contact info for the supplier

Obviously there may be some gaps in the info, but maybe we can get enough info to fill them in?

Thanks in advance
 

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http://www.camtechniques.com/

Contact.
Sales and technical assistance is available from 9:00am to 5:00pm EST, Monday to Friday.

Cam Techniques
6791-E Whitfield Industrial Avenue
Sarasota, FL 34243-5414
Phone: 941.727.5552
Fax: 941.727.7037
e-mail: [email protected]


the current cam is a F275 B 2106. It has 430 lift 270 adv dur @50 108 sep

the valve lash setting for this cam w/roller rockers is 22/24exhaust

The cam before this one I bought used for $100 was also made by them orginally. That one was the H330 486 lift 236 adv dur @50 110 sep

On new pricing I think that they wanted a regular opel cam to work with and a price that I thought was very reasonable though I don't exactly remember what it was other than it was about what OGTS had on the ones in their catalog
 

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1450 Seeker...
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I have the "Weekend Warrior" cam from TGSI racing. A word to anyone considering TGSI, Bob does great work, but you are probably going to want to wait until he gets TGSI "back online". Does Isky still have Opel cams?

Specs are
Total Valve lift 0.488"
Advertised duration 295*
@ 0.050" 262*
Lobe Center 110*
Solid grind

The cam is ready to be installed in a head that already has 44mm intake valves and 35mm exhaust valves. Titanium springs and keepers might be a little overkill here, but I was able to get the whole package installed for short money. Roller rockers and a stud girdle on the way from Samdog...

now if I could only get the rebuild of the lower end started, I would be making real progress... Anyone have any suggestions for a good compression ratio to run on 91 -93 Octane with that cam?
 

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madhatterpdc said:
now if I could only get the rebuild of the lower end started, I would be making real progress... Anyone have any suggestions for a good compression ratio to run on 91 -93 Octane with that cam?
Wow, with that much duration, you can pretty much run what you want...easily 11.0:1. That qualifies as a 'racing' cam for sure. In fact, if you have less than 10:1, it'll be a dog, at least below 4500 rpms.

Bob
 

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Cam grinders....

There have been many over the years. Worth noting is that there are no longer any US-made new cam cores for Opels, so these days all you'll get are regrinds. Fine for street use, not so good for racing use due to a smaller base circle diameter. Apparently a few companies still have some inventory of the new blanks however.

Isky cams: Been grinding Opel cams since the '70's, they have 4 listed profiles in their catalog. But like any other company, they can grind what you want if you have an inkling of lift/duration needed and it's on their master list.

Cam Techniques: Been grinding Opel cams since the early '80's at least, and have done all my performance cams from my C & R days to the present. Same thing, they have a master profile list that you can use to choose your cam.

Norris Cams: They've probably been at it as long as Isky, but they also offer springs and retainers for the Opels.

Crane Cams: They grind a LOT of cams for European Opel tuning companies.

Bullet Cams: They've ground all the roller camshafts for Cam Effects. They have a very nice master list (online even), and almost too many options!

Keep in mind, you can have almost any cam company grind any profile you want, you just have to give them a core to work with. So you might as well go with what you know, and try that local shop you already trust in. Just be aware of the Opel nuances, and don't let them talk you into a Chevy or Ford profile!

HTH,
Bob
 

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RallyBob said:
Wow, with that much duration, you can pretty much run what you want...easily 11.0:1. That qualifies as a 'racing' cam for sure. In fact, if you have less than 10:1, it'll be a dog, at least below 4500 rpms.

Bob
Question on compression. Is there any way to calculate static compression while in the planning stages of a motor, assuming a given camshaft profile. I have read quite a bit of information on compression ratios, camshaft theory, and engine specific calculations and everything is aimed at a motor that is already built or if you already have parts in-hand. My camshaft profile and available octane are essentially static (at least for now), but I would like to "run the numbers" on a couple of different compression ratios.

Or is an attempt to extrapolate this information a lost cause and only experience will provide the right answer?
 

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Here's my most recent cam purchase.

I sent Cam Techniques a good core and for $115 + return shipping, here's the cam I'm getting.

Intake H-292-1 .438 lift; 222* @ .050, 290* Adv
Exhaust H-284-1 .426 lift; 212* @ .050; 280* adv
Lobe seperation angle = 112* Since it is for the Stock 1975 FI
Grind with 109 or 110 iif carbed


Engine Specs are 1.9+.030 9.0 - 9.3:1 Comp Ratio; Valves 1.72/1.50 with Isky 905-D springs; head flows 115/92 CFM @ 10"


Also, I sent my old OR-66 Isky Combination cam back to Isky to have the lifter ramps renewed. They refineshed and re hardened (Parkerize sp?) it for $45

I too have been collecting Opel cam specs. I have an excell spreedsheet with cam and engine specs that I have seen posted on this site and on Opeltuners.com

Paul
 

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Old Opeler
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Cam Specs

I came across an unused Norris 320S reground cam - without any info - so does anyone have any idea what the specs are and if it has solid or hydraulic profiles on the lobes? I would try Norris Performance but there is no web site I can find and the address label has gone from the packaging.

Also got and Isky OR-99 "Ultra Super Comp" regrind that does have its spec card and looks to be a pretty serrious cam. In fact it is probably way too much for the street - with an auto trans anyway :D
 

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kwilford said:
How good does the core have to be? Can a cam with worn lobes be built up and re-ground?
It can be, but it's not generally cost-effective. I've only had one cam repaired this way, and only because it was a brand-new racing cam that a customer installed and promptly wore a lobe out on (due to misaligned lifter bore). He sent it back to me, I had the lobe repaired....cheaper than a brand new cam by far. Worked fine, and in fact the repaired lobe is harder than the rest of the cam.
 

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PrOpeller
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Just try finding a new cam for a 1.1L Opel GT! Mine had very worn lobes, but I finally found one in Europe (~$300) after an extensive search. So I'm happy to hear now that a cam can be built up and reground if necessary!
 

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madhatterpdc said:
Question on compression. Is there any way to calculate static compression while in the planning stages of a motor, assuming a given camshaft profile. I have read quite a bit of information on compression ratios, camshaft theory, and engine specific calculations and everything is aimed at a motor that is already built or if you already have parts in-hand. My camshaft profile and available octane are essentially static (at least for now), but I would like to "run the numbers" on a couple of different compression ratios.

Or is an attempt to extrapolate this information a lost cause and only experience will provide the right answer?
Yes and no.....
How's that for clarification!

A lot of factors affect the allowable compression ratio for a certain cam. Octane is one of them, ignition timing is another, altitude, air temp, lobe separation angle of the cam, advanced or retarded cam timing, combustion chamber efficiency, piston top configuration (domed pistons are more prone to detonation that flat-tops, which is why I like the 1.5/1.6 heads with flat-top pistons for street engines), induction and exhaust efficiencies.

Case in point: For a racing engine with a given combination, doing nothing but putting a larger carburetor on the engine increased the cylinder pressures by 15 psi, due to more efficient cylinder-filling. If I was octane-restricted, this could easily have caused detonation.

I would say experience with a particular engine is the critical factor here to know. An Opel generally can't run much more than 10.5 to 11.25:1 compression on pump gas, assuming 93 octane and an appropriately matched camshaft. Other engines are more forgiving. My old 2TC Toyota engine I had in high school tolerated 12.5:1 compression on pump gas, but that has an aluminum head (less heat buildup), and a hemispherical combustion chamber (more efficient than a wedge shape), and a much smaller bore diameter (less issues with flame travel).

Bob
 

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Curve Crazy GT
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398 Posts
Just a quick question, i E mailed Cam Techniques and he sent me back the price of $185 for this cam "F 306/290-6 Opel cam".

So really this question is for Bob or any one else who knows.. would this be a good cam for my just about stock 1.9...

I read in another thread that this wa sur favorite Opel cam.

So do you know the exact lift and duration on this cam at .050?

thanks
chris
 

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Living in the past
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Cam Techiques Cam

Just a quick question, i E mailed Cam Techniques and he sent me back the price of $185 for this cam "F 306/290-6 Opel cam".

So really this question is for Bob or any one else who knows.. would this be a good cam for my just about stock 1.9...

I read in another thread that this wa sur favorite Opel cam.

So do you know the exact lift and duration on this cam at .050?

thanks
chris
No, too much duration for a stock engine. Look on Reed Performance Products, Inc. the cam at around 272 duaation on 110 lobe center seems to work best for a near stock engine. The CH278 is a good choise for low compression motor and the CH282 works better in a flat top piston motor.
 
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