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Discussion Starter #461
You should've seen the wiring it came with. I think that was the first thing I replaced, using a computer PSU cord I think. And the mechanism wouldn't slide at all.



I gave it the "make it barely minimally functional" restoration and said "I'll do more next time I need a key cut".

The thing is, most places, key cutting is free with the purchase of a blank. So the only circumstances it would be of use to anyone is someone who may regularly cut non-standard keys. And in a box it sat for 7 years. Took me 2 hours of opening old garage sale "I'll fix this up later" boxes until I found it.

Keith figured out the adjustments, got it working, and figured out a methodology for referencing two-sided keys (it's not really meant for that and Opel keys don't really seem to be easily indexible), so I said "Great, it belongs to you now."
I don't know if Keith in TN has a machine like this, I do know he has a hand cutter, but, y'all having this machine is another plus for the Opel Community. Locksmiths are quickly becoming a thing of the past, with residents going to key pads, video cams and phone apps, same with commercial. Automotive wise, there's do it yourself kiosks, and even going to the point of having to go back to the dealership, case in point, my 2006 Nissan Altima, wanted to get a fob and key for my Son to be able to use the car, fob is an Ebay $10 item mostly, programming is a few minutes on YouTube, but, the key is a $43 item at the dealer, why?, because it has a chip in it that ONLY the dealer can program to the car, cost... $130....and unfortunately a lot of car manufacturers are going to this, so, having a machine like this, along with the can of keys, and an code cutter is VERY important.
 

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Rather than waste paying postage to ship the Can of Keys back to Gene, and then have him pay again to send it to the next Opel'er in need, I posted on a couple of Facebook Opel Forums such as:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/OpelOwnersUSA/?multi_permalinks=2795739587124557&notif_id=1572804365480459&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic&ref=notif

Several folks have responded, and so (subject to the receiving address and phone number being corresponded), the keys go to:

1) Sam Griffin (I don't know his OpelGT.com username)

2) Stephen Vaillancourt aka "oldopelguy"

3) Gordon Powell (also don't know his OpelGT.com username)

It is important that we use this thread to track the keys, so please do not send them out based on a Facebook request only. That requires key users to be a member (membership has it's privileges!)

I have sorted out the keys by type (OP11, OP19, etc etc), to make it much less frustrating to match a key. Please keep the keys sorted, and add new keys to the correct key chain. The wrong type of key will have different grooves, and simply won't slide properly (or at all) into the subject door handle/ignition/gas cap.

For clarity, if you find a key that fits your needs, PLEASE DO NOT SIMPLY TAKE IT (as Gene has suggested in the past). That procedure has depleted the Can of Keys somewhat. For only $2.50 per key blank, Opel GT Source will sell you a key blank (you just need to determine what type it is) and then any decent local key cutting service (except those stupid automated machines) can clone the key for a couple of bucks. Cut a couple (you don't what to go through this again!) and then return the original key to the can. Mail the can on to the next person on the list. If there isn't a "next person", return the Can of Keys to:

Gene Smith
1665 Norton Estates Circle
Snellville, GA 30078

Thanks in advance!

Ps. I found a thread regarding the Can of Keys from 2015 that Keith Lundholm started, and merged it into this thread
Turns out that Sam doesn't need the Can of Keys, so I'll mail it to Stephen (aka oldopelguy)
 

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I don't know if Keith in TN has a machine like this, I do know he has a hand cutter, but, y'all having this machine is another plus for the Opel Community. Locksmiths are quickly becoming a thing of the past, with residents going to key pads, video cams and phone apps, same with commercial. Automotive wise, there's do it yourself kiosks, and even going to the point of having to go back to the dealership, case in point, my 2006 Nissan Altima, wanted to get a fob and key for my Son to be able to use the car, fob is an Ebay $10 item mostly, programming is a few minutes on YouTube, but, the key is a $43 item at the dealer, why?, because it has a chip in it that ONLY the dealer can program to the car, cost... $130....and unfortunately a lot of car manufacturers are going to this, so, having a machine like this, along with the can of keys, and an code cutter is VERY important.
I might have one laying around...hmmm. I’m not a fan of them, and I’ll state my case, but it’s better than nothing when replacing a key for the collection. My only issue is you are making a copy of an old worn key for the most part. And it’s like a rumor, once it’s been around, the end result is not quite the same. A copy of a copy. It will get you there, but I have seen where some locks work great with a worn key, and then some get iffy, and then cutting a correct key solves those issues. I’ve heard the argument about the ignitions and locks getting worn and not being the key issue, I don’t think this is the case, as the key is inserted only a number of times. Where a key will wear just being in your pocket, or being used to open boxes like I use them for and what they are designed for. I have used this machine once...and it’s just not that often, but would use it on an earlier key, but I even have a master set of those key profiles.
 

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Hello guys/gals I have 4 keys total 2 for an extra gas cap 1 for the main gas cap and 1 for the ignition I would like to get extras made so I have extras and am willing to make extras for the bucket o keys if you all think we need more. Where can I get blanks to have cut 1 and 2 will the big orange store machine be able to cut them if I have blanks?
 

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Hello guys/gals I have 4 keys total 2 for an extra gas cap 1 for the main gas cap and 1 for the ignition I would like to get extras made so I have extras and am willing to make extras for the bucket o keys if you all think we need more. Where can I get blanks to have cut 1 and 2 will the big orange store machine be able to cut them if I have blanks?
Keys are available from Opel GT Source for $2.50 each. I also see them on eBay but always more expensive. I am pretty sure that Keith Lundholm of New Vintage Automotive also sells keys, as does Todd Martin of Opels Unlimited. Just need to confirm what key type you have (almost always a code, such as OP8, OP11, or most typically OP19 (those are ILCO codes I believe, so a quick Google will translate to the other manufacturers).

Check with your local key cutters (who might surprise you and actually HAVE the correct Opel key, but not likely) to ensure that they can manually cut a matching key if you provide the blank.

HTH
 

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will the big orange store machine be able to cut them if I have blanks?
Almost certainly not.

Presuming they have a new unit, it's entirely computerized. If it scans the key and doesn't know exactly what it is, even if you provide your own blank, it craps its pants and says it can't do it. Even though it can scan the key and cut... it can't skip steps in its procedure.

But any competent locksmith probably could (well, as could you, with a set of $3 key files if you're careful).
 

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Thank you Kwilford and Mattsawesomestuff. I also agree with Keith as my ignition key was/is so worn I had to put my glasses on and use a magnifier glass and catch the sun just right to see the op19 code. here are the pics of my keys look close at the left one I thought this was pretty funny( I have an Opel Toyota):lmao:
I'm going to ask anyway, What are the chances of getting a ignition key cut from a better original than the worn one I have?
 

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I'm going to ask anyway, What are the chances of getting a ignition key cut from a better original than the worn one I have?
If you have the codes, then Keith L's machine is definitely superior because I think the code mathematically describes the cut (there are pin positions and depth of notch cuts).

The one Keith W has is just a photocopier. It only has as much detail as the thing it's trying to copy, and will always slightly imperfectly copy it. If there are peaks that are shaved down from wear for example, the copier doesn't have any way of knowing that or to not remove that material, it just mechanically transcribes what the host key has for a profile.
 

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If you have the codes, then Keith L's machine is definitely superior because I think the code mathematically describes the cut (there are pin positions and depth of notch cuts).

The one Keith W has is just a photocopier. It only has as much detail as the thing it's trying to copy, and will always slightly imperfectly copy it. If there are peaks that are shaved down from wear for example, the copier doesn't have any way of knowing that or to not remove that material, it just mechanically transcribes what the host key has for a profile.
Are there more codes than the OP19 that I found on the key?
 

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Are there more codes than the OP19 that I found on the key?
Terry,
The OP19 is the key blank number. That one is for the doors and ignition. I think the blank for the gas cap is OP11.
The code that Matt was referencing is the code that is "unique" to the car that allows someone to cut a new key without
copying an existing key. I think the code is stamped on the underside of the door handle and on the ignition switch case.
BTW, I agree with your idea about making an extra key for the "bucket" when you get a key made for your car. I also proposed this
a few years ago. If enough current opel owners did this, I suspect there would almost certainly be a match for any keyless Opel out there.
Cheers,
RR
 

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Terry,
The OP19 is the key blank number. That one is for the doors and ignition. I think the blank for the gas cap is OP11.
The code that Matt was referencing is the code that is "unique" to the car that allows someone to cut a new key without
copying an existing key. I think the code is stamped on the underside of the door handle and on the ignition switch case.
BTW, I agree with your idea about making an extra key for the "bucket" when you get a key made for your car. I also proposed this
a few years ago. If enough current opel owners did this, I suspect there would almost certainly be a match for any keyless Opel out there.
Cheers,
RR
AGREED! I will check on that now I have extra door handles (interior) not sure if what is installed when I bought it is the original or the one in the box I'll get right back to you.
How is the new home/garage coming?
 

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AGREED! I will check on that now I have extra door handles (interior) not sure if what is installed when I bought it is the original or the one in the box I'll get right back to you.
How is the new home/garage coming?
It is the outside door handle (the one that has the lock) that has the key code. I think it is stamped on the stem. Keith had a nice write up on this a while back.
I don't know if the code for the locking gas cap is also stamped on the car somewhere. If you have a key that works, it is easy to make a copy from the OP11 blank.
Cheers,
RR
FL is good (I saw that my previous town is getting single digit temps already this week :eek: ) New garage is still in the design stage, but hoping to get all the permits and break ground soon.
 

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ah gotcha I didn't see anything on the ignition itself I'll check the exterior now welcome to FL by the way. If your close enough to me and need any a/c or dare I say heating help let me know. I'm a licensed contractor
 

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OK I don't see any numbers or anything anywhere on the exterior handle but I did find numbers on the inside of the gas cap, just don't know if there of any relevance or not but my gas cap keys are in great shape and would be fine to copy it's the ignition key I'm concerned about
 

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OK I don't see any numbers or anything anywhere on the exterior handle but I did find numbers on the inside of the gas cap, just don't know if there of any relevance or not but my gas cap keys are in great shape and would be fine to copy it's the ignition key I'm concerned about
I found Keith's post on cutting new keys from the codes.
https://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-tips-tricks/18623-opel-keys-codes-explained.html
The door handle code is on the underside stem, so you normally need to remove it to read the code.
I am assuming your door key also works for your ignition. One or both could have been replaced over the years.
Cheers,
RR
 

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Thank you rrossjr fortunately the key works both, however I have enough stuff taken apart right now so it will have to hold off on it but I would like to get to it and help with the can o keys
 

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Thank you rrossjr fortunately the key works both, however I have enough stuff taken apart right now so it will have to hold off on it but I would like to get to it and help with the can o keys
I hear you! Just get a copy made at a decent key cutter. I did this for all of my old cars, and never had any trouble with the duplicates.
Cheers,
RR
 

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Ron thanks for posting Keiths write up. Its been awhile since I read that. I wanted to copy and have as a reference for future use, so now is a good time. Keith did a very nice job putting together that information.
 

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Thank you Kwilford and Mattsawesomestuff. I also agree with Keith as my ignition key was/is so worn I had to put my glasses on and use a magnifier glass and catch the sun just right to see the op19 code. here are the pics of my keys look close at the left one I thought this was pretty funny( I have an Opel Toyota):lmao:
I'm going to ask anyway, What are the chances of getting a ignition key cut from a better original than the worn one I have?
Wow you sound just like me. I feel older than dirt in the A.M. Takes a couple cups of coffee to get me moving, and my moter running.:yup: Jarrell
 
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