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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
right caliper pad is worn

I did my first set of pads. :) You have to start somewhere!

i got stuck at reassembly, i didnt know how to collapse the caliper to make space for the newrer thicker pads.

A phone call to "nobody" was the key, he said to use channel locks..worked great.

bendix stock pads were $15 locally.

I did a test drive, it was fine so far. brakes are soft, i have never bled brakes...my next project

Question: why is one side more worn?
 

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First guess is wheel bearings allowing the rotor to twist on the spindle.
 

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If a piece of the crown on the piston was chipped off, it may all for that abnormal wear. What do you think?
 

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opeldean said:
Question: why is one side more worn?
I decided that Dean's brake job deserved its own thread. Especially since he did a photo journal!

When only one pad wears more quickly (inside versus outside or vice versa) than the other pad on a "fixed" caliper (non-floating, which Opels are), it is usually related to a sticky piston in the caliper. Both pads prematurely worn on a floating caliper (such as most modern cars have, where the cylinder or cylinders are only on one side of the caliper) is usually a sticky caliper also.

But when both pads wear prematurely on a fixed caliper, I would be looking for reasons why the caliper wasn't releasing. My first guess would be a deteriorated flex hose, which isn't allowing the pressure inside the caliper to be released. Or, BOTH pistons are sticky. Dean, how easy was it to press the pistons back inside the caliper, and did you try again after the new pads were installed?

The angled wear indicates that the piston may be installed at an incorrect orientation. The FSM states "Turn piston so that the relieved edge faces downwards and an angle of 20 degrees and facing in brake disc direction. The guide surface in the caliper half recess at the brake pipe connection side, will properly align the piston." Look at figure 50-23 (1972 FSM) for the orientation of the piston. Unfortunately, sometimes the "relieved edge" gets worn or corroded away, and the result is what you are seeing.

Dumb question: Did you get the rotors turned? When pad are worn down that much, usually the rotor is somewhat scored, or even out-of-true. It isn't very hard or expensive to get the rotors turned. Some shops will do it right on the car, others will do it without removing the hub from the disc (you otherwise need to remove the whole hub and rotor and remove the four 4-square 10 mm bolts that hold the disc to the hub). If you do pull the hub assembly, check the dust seal at the back edge of the hub. This is a "good time" to replace that seal (standard seal, available from local bearing and seal supplier or OGTS of course).

I think we need the photo journal to continue with Dean showing how he bleeds the brakes, don't you?
 

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My pads were worn diffently from side to side like that as well becuase of a collapsed brake line on the driver side, The old brake lines are evil and everyone should replace them, they aren't worth trying to use they will only create problems later.
 

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I agree with both Keith and Jordan statements. Keiths on the "sticky piston in the caliper", and both with the "collapsed brake line hoses" Again, cheap insurance to get new hoses from OGTS, there only 3, and you have to bleed the back lines too now, so may as well do it right the first time. And if you don't feel like turning the rotors, which you should, Brembo offers new rotors at a decent price. Shoot, may as well go ahead and pull the rear drums and check the rear shoes too. Turn them if they need it. You're halfway there anyhow. JM2CW. Jarrell
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
where I am at

1- rotors werent turned.
2- I was just trying to get my brakes "by", for the short term, till I figure out
what to do.

3- looks like I got bigger issues that pads.

4- car would sometimes pull to the right when i braked..maybe about 30 % of the time. I have just lived with it, because it mostly stopped straight.

5- for the long term,I was thinking about an entire brake upgrade to bmw calipers/Manta rotors

for the short term, i will have to decide to repair the right sidecaliper or chuck the whole thing.

6) does anyone have a current stock of manta 75 rotors? I have heard its listed online, but out of stock?
 

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brake caliper

Watch which one you replace, I have found that if the car pulls to the right then that caliper is working and the left one was not.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
car pulls

car pulls to right, the right side is the most worn side...i guess that makes sense.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
brembo code for manta 75

tirerack could not find manta 75 rotors- they said they checked the brembo catalogue...08.2953.20 is the # i gave them, they car not listed online either

"nobody or anybody" where do you get manta 75's rotors? Brembo direct?
 

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Picture how the car would react when the lets say front driverside wheel, if you slow it down (brake holding on rotor) that would be in effect the inside wheel in a corner; inside slows down outside remains the same speed, so when you come to a stop and the driverside is slowing down the passengerside will go away from the driverside (towards the curb) now to make it even more confusing, imagine what the back is doing.
 

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Opeldean , congratulations on your first brake repairs.. your pad wear in the photos is due to the pads draging in the caliphers at the sides . You
need to r&r pads & clean where the sides of the pads are ..they have to
slide or they will cock to the side & drag .. that is why they have the
taper wear .. if the piston or line clogs the wear would be even ..but
with faster wear on one side ,as stated .You can sand or lighty file flat.
Hope this helps .. replace your rubber flex lines , but do one thing at a time
Good luck ..take your time , you must be able to stop safely :eek:
 

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Have a look at autobarn.com. You want part # 25052, front rotors for a 75 manta.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
manta 75 and gt 73 rotors-fyi

choice 1-autobarn shows them both online at 24.95 each... according to the computer,loaded 75 calipers at $74-beck arnley brand

choice 2: i spoke to a real person, mike at replacement auto parts, 425 398 1846, they have manta 75 rotors $31 each..they order from brembo he said
 

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Choice 3 ???

Again from autopartsgiant.com for 75 Opel Manta/1900

AUTOSPECIALTY EBR-044 [Rotor Front] 11.7 $ 21.89 *
AUTOSPECIALTY EBR-044L [Power Stop Rotor Front] 11.7 $ 66.47
AUTOSPECIALTY EBR-044R [Power Stop Rotor Front] 11.7 $ 66.47

They also carry the calipers & 3/4 wheel cyl. as mentioned in another post.


~ Tom
 

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opeldean said:
choice 1-autobarn shows them both online at 24.95 each... according to the computer,loaded 75 calipers at $74-Beck Arnley brand
I bought a set of the ATE BMW calipers from the guys at Mofoco, and I see that they have another set for sale on eBay at $39 each on a Buy it Now.
Look at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=7944831711&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
&
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=7944832122&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

They sell pads and hardware kits separately, or you can buy that locally. HTH
 

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Can't emphasize how important it is to change the hoses. After you do, take one of the old ones and cut it in half and look at the insides. You will be amazed that they worked at all.
Jc
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
autoparts giant rocks

if they have what the list.

the photo of the remanufactered MC for a 73 Gt is about $25, the other are $107.

what are semi loaded calipers vs loaded? only half the brake?
 

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Dean, the Cardone MC even comes with lines and fittings to bench bleed it. I got curious months ago if it was possible to get and ordered one. It looks good but that price you found is better than I got.
 
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