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Tranny Rattle & Fuel Pump Oil Leak

My fuel pump keeps coming loose driving long distances. It leaks oil and fuel and basically makes a mess. Plus something is now rattiling around the tranny, which I assume is my speedo cable since it recently went out on me too. Help.....I think my opel is falling apart.
 

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4-speed for sale / tranny swaps?

Just testing the market, because I think my girlfriend's GT could possibly be in need of a transmission in relatively short order...

Anyone have a good 4-speed for a GT for sale? It doesn't have to be perfect...

On that note, does anyone know what's out there in regards to swappable transmissions, aside from the Getrag 5-speed? That's just way too expensive to swap in...
 

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I just thought I would merge these two posts together, since they are the same issue.

Well Kate and Kirk, it sounds like you have a 30 year old Opel. I hope that you don't get too discouraged too soon. There will be lots of time for that later. Just kidding. Sort of.

Well, first things first. The leaking fuel pump. Is it leaking oil from around the base? If so, it might just need a new gasket, and a bit of gasket sealant. Make sure you GENTLY remove the phenolic (a kind of a plastic for old people) spacer (like a thick gasket) and re-seal on both sides. Be careful how tight you make the bolts, since they are threaded into the front timing chaincover, which is aluminum. If the threads get stripped (or are already, and hence the leak), you are about to learn how to install a Heli-Coil (it's an 8 mm bolt). Very easy, actually, but the first kit will probably cost about $20 (for the threaded tap and installation handle) and a few bucks for a correct sized drill bit. After that, the inserts are only a buck or so apiece.

If the oil leak is around the body of the pump, it might be worn out. When the plunger wears, it allows oil into the body and it leaks out of a little weap hole. They are $37 at OGTS, which is pretty cheap. You could also buy an electric pump, and get a blank made to seal where the old mechanical pump was. There are pros and cons to each.

As for the transmission rattle, it isn't likely related to the speedo cable. Rattles are hard to diagnose without actually hearing them, but it could be a bunch of things. Release bearing, a missing thrust spring (where the driveshaft fits into the tail of the tranny), a worn out pilot bearing, and all sorts of internal problems. Some of them can be fixed quite readily, others are easier to fix by replacing the transmission. Does it rattle all of the time, or just when you have it in gear and the clutch out, or only in neutral? Tell us more, and we might be able to help you.

As for choices besides the Getrag, well, you have none. Not really, anyway. I believe that the early Vega used the Opel transmission. But there are LOTS of pretty good Opel transmissions out there; all the 1.9 litre Opels, including the Manta, Ascona (1900) Kadett and GT used the same tranny. Just post here in the "Parts Wanted" section of the classified, and perhaps on the ClassicOpels list. Do you know any other Opel owners around you yet? If so, ask them.

As for the Getrag, it depends on how serious you are about keeping, and using, the GT as a daily driver. Most folks say the Getrag is the best money they spent on their Opel, after the Weber and maybe Pertronix Ignitor. Especially if you do any highway driving; that fifth gear overdrive is a pretty nice thing at 65 mph.

HTH
 

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Har...trust me, I know what it's like going in after one thing and coming out having done ten others. That's how a radiator cleaning and transmission swap for my '70 GMC turned into a radiator cleaning, transmission swap, and new top end for my '70 GMC. ;) (Heads ended up being trash, put a new set of Vortecs on).

From what I can tell (I haven't had to deal with this specific problem yet, Kate and my dad tackled it the first time) it's just the fuel pump keeps coming loose from the engine.

I certainly wouldn't mind a Getrag in there, but time and money won't allow that for now...so I guess a post to the parts wanted for a good used 4-speed is in order. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kirk is on the right track. I couldnt sleep last night because my sister totalled our other car and so I got under the opel. It seems like maybe the holes the screws fix into are worn a bit (I am praying not) but Keith could be right too. There is a lot of fluid under there. As for my hideous rattle... well....On the freeway it just kinda sounded like my firewall stuff was coming loose. It varied in volume like maybe tinfoil in the wind. Thats is the best I can describe it. Then when I got into town it seemed to be connected to the tranny as it happened when I was driving in each gear, except second. It got a lot louder and seems to be something banging around in there. Externally eveerything seems fine. No matter, I have time. My mom will not let me drive it until I fix it and the insurance and title/registration and all of that crap is finished....after sarah wrecked, shes freaked. She shouldda been dead. So I am clearing my self a space in the garage whether she likes it or not! Mean while suggestions and help are apreciated. Oh yeah, and are Kirk and I that obvious?
:)
 

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another option?

Always the champion of the cheap and lazy, I heartilly recommend installing studs and nuts whenever possible on the motor. If the threads aren't too far gone, a stud might be able to get into some good threads and hold just fine. Secure it in place with some locktite, and you might be fine. If the pump needs to come off in the future, the threads on the steel stud will bear the burdon of wear instead of the aluminum toming cover.
 

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Transmission swap alternative

This swap is little talked about but very affordable. A chevette or pontiac t1000 5 speed bolts up to the 1.9 block. Must use GT auto driveshaft, and the shaft must be cut off a little bit. The drawback is the shifter is relocated a few inches back, so a custom console needs to be made.
Keith
 

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Chevette 4 or 5 speed?

I have heard this mentioned before, but the consensus seemed to be that:

A) the Borg Warner 5-speed from the Chevette wouldn't fit without extensive modification, at least as much as the German Getrag. Shifter is 6 inches too far back, and the speedo cable is a no-go.

B) They were rare as hen's teeth. And you had to be sure you got the "gasoline" version (vs the diesel) for it to work

A search turned up a bunch of related threads, the best seemed to be your very own post at:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=159&highlight=Chevette

Can you enlighten us further? Have you done one of these? Do you have photos? Can the shifter be re-located similar to the Getrag? Is the speedo problematic?

Speaking of the Chevette, one question raised, and never answered on another post, was: will a Chevette 4-speed fit a GT? That might be another choice for Kirk and Kate.

TIA
 

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Tranny swapp

There is a S-10 5-speed you can use, but, same as with the Chevette trans, the shifter it too far back
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Kirk neglected to mention that I want to keep this opel as stock aas humanly possible. It was the year that my father had and the only cool car he had before he died. As much as he would like to change it into a 500hp race car, the title is in my name and it is my choice. Sorry lovie but its true and I dont want to convert anything or change to a five speed. That is what a second opel is for. A first opel is for keeping the beauty and mystery of its origional form to a safe limit (lets face it, somedays the electrical aspect of this car is scary....I was basically told to expect flame driving it home from California) Now, as for my fuel pump. Well, I seriously got under there (I had grease on my nose even) and the fact of the matter is that I really just would benefit from a new fuel pump. The screws are wet because of the way it was dripping while I drove it home. The fuel pump is finito and so I have to spend the money and get a new one....no big. Meanwhile, as much as I hate to see it this way (I would rather drive) The car is on blocks until at least sunday... Probably not a bad thing. I am still a bit freaked about sarahs wreck. I wish I had gobs of time and a huge garage so I could do all of the stuff I want to, but school is important too. Oh well I guess I will have something to do....oh yeah and by the way, I decided on a plate for it:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
oh yeah and if anyone knows anyone that has a gt in the phoenix area, tell me because I have heard of like three others ever. One is for sale, and the other two I saw and nearly had heart attacks over the day I decided i was DEFINETLY getting one. One was parked nearr Kirks moms place the other was just drivin along....no identifiable owners to annoy....
 

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Gene,

I thought the S-10 5-speed couldn't be adapted to the CIH bellhousing (in the split-able version) or the bellhousing wouldn't fit the CIH engine (in the case of the integral version). I recall seeing a few posts a while back that even showed pictures of the Opel and S-10 trannies side by side, and they were just too different. Or do you know something? I suppose an adaptor plate could be fabricated to mount the S-10 tranny (what kind is it, anyway?) to the stock belhousing. In fact, anything is possible given time and money.
 

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blackbird said:
oh yeah and if anyone knows anyone that has a gt in the phoenix area, tell me because I have heard of like three others ever.
A friend from Germany told me there are a couple of junkyards in the Phoenix area that have GT's. Did you see the photos in the Gallery of the Speedster spotted in Scottsdale? GM has a "secret" proving ground out near Superstition Mountain. (at least that's what the AAA map showed me.)
 

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Really? Did he happen to mention what junkyards have them? ;)

And yes, GM has proving grounds in AZ. Or, moreso, soon to be 'had'. They've moving the operations to Mexico because it's not hot enough in AZ... :p
 

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Tranny swap

Keith;
I don't know what all is involved on the S-10 swap, I just know it has been done, but, as stated in another post, you have to modify the trans tunnel, because the shifter comes out further back. The S-10 trans shifter can't be modified like the getrag to make it come through the stock opening. So, as for a trans swap, and especially if you want to keep it stock looking, the getrag is the only choice. The getrag swap into the Manta/Sportwagon/Sedan has more possibilities. LENK tuning has a console replacement for the Manta/Sportwagon/Sedan that will allow you to install the getrag without modifying the shifter. You do have to cut the trans tunnel, but, when you put the LENK console in, it looks stock. I don't know if this console will work for an S-10 trans swap into the Manta/Sportwagon/Sedan, but, it does offer more possibilities, at least for the Manta/Sportwagon/Sedan owner. I have posted a pic of the LENK console, and you can see that the shifter is back further than the stock location, but, with the console in place, itlooks stock.
Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
actually because labor is cheaper....and yeah we caught the pics, nice. However if you happen to know which yard...do tell. Its a wild goose chase otherwise because there are tons of yards out here and we have both been looking. I stayed home today and called a few and no one even knew whhat an opel gt was...
 

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Chevette 5 Speed

The chevette 5 speed Borg Warner fits fine. The shifter is 6 inches back, but for a custom application, like my convertible, it works out fine. You must use the transmission and bellhousing from the chevette. The speedometer cable comes off the chevette also. For the few modifications I found this to be my best option. May have available for show at Charlotte auto fair in April. The only thing about the bellhousing is the top two bolts are not perfect. Must slot the holes in the housing to make it work. I am going to be using the s-10 clutch with this setup.
 

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Phoenix Junkyard

IOwnCalculus said:
Really? Did he happen to mention what junkyards have them? ;
Just got a note back on the junkyard with an Opel GT:

Hidden Valley Auto Parts Inc
21046 N. Rio Bravo Rd
Maricopa, AZ 85239

Phone # : 568-2945

Gotta love the 'net. Getting info about a local parts source from someone in another continent!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
back to the origional issue...

Ok so we pulled the tranny pan today. The fluid was hicker than honey and there was practically none there. So we fixed it and now the tranny is smooth and silent. One problem. There are a couple of holes in the top of the tranny casing that fluid id leaking from. They arent at all threaded. I made a seal for one and just noticed the other, however, they still are both leaking, save when it is on a slant in my driveway. Does anyone know why these holes are there? I know that they are intentional. However, in my quest to not replace fluids every 5 miles, this is a decent roadblock. Any suggestions as to how to fix it? Could we have overfilled it with the gear oil...I mean after it dripped due to being full, I plugged it pretty fast. I have the sinking feeling that I will be replacing all fluids now....even the ones that I shouldnt have to yet. The opel needs pampering and I need help. I need to fix the leak, it loses a lot of fluid and its a pain to do alone, since Kirk went back to tucson today.
 

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Can you describe where these holes are? There are two "holes" on top of the main casing, pointing upwards, in roughly the middle (actually a bit further to the rear). These are the locations for the shift interlock detent balls and springs (one on each side). There should be a plug in each hole, which is about 3/8 inch in diameter with a groove cut near the top.

These plugs are just hammered in (a less delicate way of saying "pressed"). You use a hammer to install them, and a special tool that hooks on the groove with a slide hammer to remove them. Or, since NOBODY has the special tool, you can use a small blunt chisel and hit them in an upwards direction in the groove.

Normally these shouldn't be able to leak, since they are well above the level of the fluid, and fit tightly. But if the plugs are missing, I guess the fluid could splash around and come out the holes. But the bigger problem would be the lack of the "locating effect" of the ball and spring on the internal shifter shafts, versus the shifter shaft that runs through the tranny, and should have a seal on each side.

Or are THESE the holes you are talking about? One on each side, with the selector shaft running through them, which is connected to the shift lever with linkage on each side. There should be rubber cup seals (double lip, 13 mm internal diameter, 26 mm external diameter; ask me how I know!) that prevent the leakage of oil. They are JUST at the fluid level when full, and when the seals wear, they can leak. But replacing them requires the transmission to be FULLY disassembled (ask again how I know!). But the tranny fluid level will only fall to just below full when these will no longer leak (the fluid level will be below the shaft).

I don't suppose you have a digital camera that you could take and post a picture?
 
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