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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, call me either blind or lazy, but I don't see where to adjust the clutch cable.
Is it right where it comes through the firewall?
Right now the cable is too tight, and will not let the clutch fully engage.
Any help is appreciated.
 

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Check on the passenger side of the transmission. There should be a nut with a screw for adjusting the clutch.

Stanley_P
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Funny, I just put the transmission back in. Actually a different one. I pulled the first one out thinking I had a bad throwout bearing, and it ended up being my syncros in a pile in the bottom.

Anyway, when I put it back together, I didn't see anything that resembled an adjustment. Unless I missed it of course!
I wasn't really paying that much attention to it other then not really noticing anything to adjust it with. And at that time I figured it was inside the car, so didn't look any further.

Oh well, when I go look at it again tomorrow night, I will look for that.
Thanks
 

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hmmm, I just put a manual tranny in my car, and there are no ball nut adjusters for my clutch cable. I really don't know what to do... I'll check for something on hte passenger side, though
 

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thats odd. the cable adjustment on my car is under the washer bottle tank and you *should*be able toadjust the clutch its self on the passenger side of the bellhousing. there *should* be a bolt sticking out with a nut one it locking it from spinning and letting the clutch get out of adjustment. on the end of the bolt on the inside of the bellhousning is where the throw-out bearing fork pivots off of. i feel like i know it all like the back of my hand after changing the transmission 3 times since march and a new clutch kit also helped. i'll take pictures of this and send them to you in a little bit and hopefully it helps. GOOD LUCK!
 

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yep, thanks! :)

I called Opel Gt Source, and that's what they told me...so I tried it, and voila! It worked. Thanks again
 

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Ok I have spent the last 3 weekends trying to fix the clutch adjutment. I have found the ball stud and lock nut, loosed lock nut.... nothing happens to the ball stud. even when I had my Girlfriend push on the clutch. the ball stud did not move.... What am I doing wrong. Please help this will be my 4th week with the same problem
 

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Joe;
You will notice that the stud has a square end on it. You use an 8mm wrench to turn the stud in or out till the tip of the clutch fork is 4 1/4" away from the trans meets the back of the block. Then you lock the nut down on the stud, then go into the engine comparment and pull the cable out to take up all the slack. Pop your "C" clip into the nearest slot to hold the cable and you're done
 

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Joe, the ball stud screws in and out of the bellhousing. To adjust the throw-out arm to the correct 4.25 inches from the bellhousing mating surface to the engine, screw the ball stud in or out to get the dimension, then, tighten up the jam nut. That's all there is to it. I believe there is a pic of the adjustment somewhere on the site. Try running a search to see if it is still available.
 

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Ok so I tried the 8mm socket (too small) the 9mm sockett (almost right fit, just rounded the corners) and the 10mm socket (too big). I had to use a set of vice grips, all it did was round the corners some more, but I did get the ball stud to losen... Now here is my question. I have too much play in my clutch pedal, would I need to loosen my ball stud or tighten my ball stud, twist the ball stud to the left or right. When I was using the vice grips I moved it to the left, it moved the arm closer to 4.25 (it was at 5.5 is now at 5.0) the ball stud does not have much for edges now and I can't find anything to grab it so I can adjust the clutch. What I did do seams to have made the clutch worse, It was grinding when I was puting it into reverse. I am ready to pull my hair out. Is there any tool I can rent/buy to help me fix this, with the trans/clutch still on car?
 

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Joe;
First, if you will notice, I stated in my post, you use an 8mm "wrench" as the head of the stud is square, not hex. ONLY a wrench can be used. Now that the edges are rounded off, it will be far more difficult to do this. if you can somehow get the stud turned in till the tip of the fork reaches the 4.25 inches, then you can finish taking the slack out of the cable. Otherwise, you'll have to yank the trans out, then the bell housing and then you can replace the stud with one not chewed up, as the stud has to go inside the bell housing to come out.
 

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loosen the works first

OK, before you try an do any more adjusting you need to take the tension out of the system. You need to remove the little clip on the cable where it goes through the firewall so everything can move. If your cable is already too tight it's going to be a real chore, you may have to get a strong friend to or a big c-clamp to push the end of the throwout arm sticking out the lower driver's side forward enough to slaken the cable. Once you have a little room, then you pull the clip ont he firewall and release the tension.
Then, with no tension, you should be able to adjust the ball stud pretty easily. You should have to unscrew it a bit to get the other end closer to the bell-housing. (unscrew=counter clock-wise, the same direction you turned the lock nut to loosen it) With the cable slack you will have to hold the end forward with your hand to measure it. Once you have 4.25" then tighten up the lock nut and climb back out from under the car.
Back up top, after the lower stuff is set you will need to pull just a bit on the cable where it comes out of the firewall. Not a lot here, just a bit, and slip the retaining clip on as tight a notch as you can without lots and lots of pulling. at this point the pedal should have a little slop in it at the top, and it will move down a bit before you get any resistance. Take it for a drive to make sure it's all working and you should be done.
 

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Should the clutch fork adjustment always be 4 1/4" ? Even on a worn clutch? Checked mine today and I get 4 5/8. Should I adjust this to get 4 1/4? I do have to let the clutch pedal out about 3/4 of the way before my clutch engages. Will adjusting this help?
 

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That's the reason for making the adjustment, to take up clutch plate wear. Before you do anything, read the post previous to yours. Doing the adjustment as Stephen suggests will take care of the worn clutch plate and get the pedal free play, too.
 

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Realized no good threads on this visually.

So here are some visuals..





 
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Charles, from the descriptions above your post and the final picture / legend it appears that the "c-clip" is also known as the "e-ring, #1. Is that correct? I'm not too close to doing any of this right now, but "forewarned ...". Thanks, Doug
 

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Realized no good threads on this visually.

So here are some visuals..





On a 5 Speed Getrag the return spring cannot reach the hole in the tranny support member so you have to add some sort of extension. This is what I did.
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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On a 5 Speed Getrag the return spring cannot reach the hole in the tranny support member so you have to add some sort of extension. This is what I did.
Yep.. the comments were for those that were getting a generic spring from Pep Boys or Advance Auto.
 
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Charles, from the descriptions above your post and the final picture / legend it appears that the "c-clip" is also known as the "e-ring, #1. Is that correct? I'm not too close to doing any of this right now, but "forewarned ...". Thanks, Doug
Yes.. that was the name the book had in the description.

I only redid the text to make it more readable.
 
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