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'72 Opel GT (Sara)
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2,119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Truly an awesome thread...

Just a comment on your wishlist:

With the overall cost you have in the car at this point, none of these items should make you wince. I'd say go with the suspension modifications next since it will make the car even MORE fun to drive! The $1000 dash (if you include shipping it's right at it) is crazy if you're happy with the dash cap. The NOS gas cap is a nice cosmetic finishing touch but something you can afford to wait on until the right one presents itself. And for the cold air intake, perhaps that could be a good winter project for you to add your own personal touch to your car.

I hope I get a chance to see your car someday. Great job at the writeup!

Todd K.
Thanks! I agree the performance mods probably make more sense to prioritize ahead of the cosmetic changes.

Matt's Wish List - Questions and Answers

Sway bars - Seating on Keith's shelf
NOS Gas Cap - Again, seating on Keith's shelf
Lowering Springs?
Cold Air Induction?
Matt's Car?

Wonder how long it will take for the last three to show up in Cookeville. :haha:

Harold
:haha: I just hope Keith can hang on to those items long enough until I can justify putting more into the car. My wife has been very understanding but I suspect I am at the limit...

Matt
 

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Opel Key Master
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5,529 Posts
Rotissorie

PHP:
Dallas... want to loan me the Rotiserre? THat or I can bring the Manta down to you ..
I don't know Charles if you will find that rottisorie at Dallas's house or not, figuring it was being retored by me in Cookeville. I know I still go by Opelspyder, I can't help it.
Keith Lundholm
 

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'72 Opel GT (Sara)
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2,119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Matt's Wish List - Questions and Answers

Sway bars - Seating on Keith's shelf
NOS Gas Cap - Again, seating on Keith's shelf
Lowering Springs?
Cold Air Induction?
Matt's Car?

Wonder how long it will take for the last three to show up in Cookeville. :haha:

Harold
You were partially right Harold - I just couldn't wait on the sway-bars. Except, Keith made a house call and brought the rear sway-bar with him (I bought the front on eBay). To see the first of my three posts on the ADDCO sway-bar install (front and rear) follow this link...

Matt
 

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Driver
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987 Posts
Very nice job on the CAI Matt. I am honored to offer some help on such a beautiful car. I thought about putting my "Airaid" sticker on my pipe but stuck it on my tool box instead. :veryhappy
I know you have been wanting to do this mod for a while.
 

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Opeler
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1,768 Posts
Glad to see you're enjoying it. I miss mine. There's a '73 on Craigslist near me (Holland, MI) but he wants 10,000 or is that a typo?
Hmmmm
 

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Super Moderator
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8,350 Posts
so what was the total cost
There won't be a total cost until the car is totalled. :D As far as the current investment in his gem, I believe the cost is classified.

Aside from my smarta$$ comments you might notice at the bottom of Matt's signature are links to the restoration thread, this one, and the comments thread, where the last three posts should have been made. I would ask that a moderator move your posts to the correct thread and delete mine.

Thanks,
Harold

P.S. Jeff, nice to see you're still looking. Patience, the right car will come along.
 

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1000 Post Club
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1,247 Posts
Glad to see you're enjoying it. I miss mine. There's a '73 on Craigslist near me (Holland, MI) but he wants 10,000 or is that a typo?
Hmmmm
Here is one is Kentwood as well for only 7200. Sounds like a little better deal =) lol

Opel GT
 

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2,153 Posts
Well I've decided to start doing the major body steel work on my opel for this winter. I basically need something to keep my mind off of life's little stresses, and I was fed up at looking at the rough looking bondo and fiberglass job that was done 25 years ago to my car. I've been checking out all the work that keith had done and I was happy to see that my car has very similar rust problems as the orange opel......My goal is not do do a full restoration but to start doing some major freshening up of the body and replacing some rubbers , odds and ends that are badly worn out. Engine, trany, clutch and rear end tho stock and original all work fine so I won't touch them. I'm only planning on painting the bottom half of the car and hopefully driving it by next summer. This should be good enough to get me a few more years of enjoyment before I would have to spend 15 000$ and two to three years on the REAL restoration and Final paint Job. I mite post some pics but really it would look like old news because we've already seen the same rust damage on other threads . All this to say that I'm very lucky and appreciative of this restoration thread and the time keith took to make it for all of us to learn off of. :) Thank you very much!!!
 

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'72 Opel GT (Sara)
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2,119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #230 ·
Well I've decided to start doing the major body steel work on my opel for this winter. I basically need something to keep my mind off of life's little stresses, and I was fed up at looking at the rough looking bondo and fiberglass job that was done 25 years ago to my car. I've been checking out all the work that keith had done and I was happy to see that my car has very similar rust problems as the orange opel...
Keith had to do a lot of metal work on my car - it was badly rusted. Through the whole restoration, I kept emphasizing that having a sound, rust-free body was my highest priority and he delivered on that. Mechanical parts can be fixed / upgraded as time and money allows but you need a sound body to attach everything to. Best wishes on your project!

Matt
 

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Administrator
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10,378 Posts
Just a comment on this thread;

When we upgrade the site, Project/comments threads like this will no longer be needed. The Logbook (Blog) feature will be in an article format and feature a space for the "project" with "comments" added below.
 

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Trouble Maker
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1,523 Posts
Better Brakes
Five-Speed Transmission
Lowering Springs
105amp Alternator

-What'd you have in mind as far as brakes go? Just about anything will require larger wheels. I've done the 75s and was unimpressed plus I had a rotor warp in less than a couple of months. :(

-I'd start collecting the pieces now to do the 5 speed swap, mainly the driveshaft.

-The 105 is probably the cheapest and easiest mod on your list.
 

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'72 Opel GT (Sara)
Joined
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2,119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Better Brakes
Five-Speed Transmission
Lowering Springs
105amp Alternator

-What'd you have in mind as far as brakes go? Just about anything will require larger wheels. I've done the 75s and was unimpressed plus I had a rotor warp in less than a couple of months. :(

-I'd start collecting the pieces now to do the 5 speed swap, mainly the driveshaft.

-The 105 is probably the cheapest and easiest mod on your list.
With the brakes it would have to be something that doesn't require changing the wheels - I like the stock wheels I have. My goal of course is to reduce stopping distance. Maybe the answer is just better pads, etc. using the existing set-up. All these items have to wait until 2010 so I'll have some time to do research. Good to know about the 75s - thanks!
 

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Well after a bunch of work removing 25 year old fiber glass and bondo from my car I've realized that the rust goes far beyond just my body panels but into the panels behind them. After my conversation with the good boys at OpelGTSource , I've realized that my body mite be beyond repair!!!!:no: Truly a sad day for my little 37 year old survivor. My budy's bringing me his sandblaster for the weekend and we'll see the extent of the damage but right now it doesn't look to good.:no:
 

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Super Moderator
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8,350 Posts
Now that I have had a chance to drive the car some, I have found that I need to check the electric choke operation, carburetor jetting, and possibly tweak the mixture / idle screws. I experienced some stalling / hesitation from a cold start. Once the car warmed up everything was great and the "seat of the pants" test still indicates some extra power out on the highway at speed. This Sprint manifold was treated with a heat shielding coating and that may be affecting the current "tune" as the under hood heat dynamics have changed. Matt
The carb heat should be reduced some because the exhaust and intake are no longer bolted together underneath the plenum of the intake. A small reduction in heat radiated from the exhaust manifold because of the thermal barrier coating and yes, you'll probably need to "tune" it a little.

Harold
 

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Member
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1,808 Posts
I have been running a 105 amp. Alt. for 3 years now and have never had the amp. gauge " peg " HTH
John
I have been using the 75 front brakes with good pads and rear brake shoes w/3/4 w/cyls . on my 1970 GT and have
not had any braking concerns with stopping and I am using 13in. wheels HTH
 

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Trouble Maker
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1,523 Posts
I have been running a 105 amp. Alt. for 3 years now and have never had the amp. gauge " peg " HTH
John
I have been using the 75 front brakes with good pads and rear brake shoes w/3/4 w/cyls . on my 1970 GT and have
not had any braking concerns with stopping and I am using 13in. wheels HTH
One thing to note about your wheels is that they are also 9 inch wide BWA Milans, just so no one thinks that you're running stock wheels with the 75 brakes.

To note also, the rotors that I bought were Pro-stop (IIRC). I have Raybestos ones on now and my uncle has been running, not Baer but one of the other big names, without warping.
 
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