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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know how a vapor canister should be connected up when you are using a Weber carburetor (on a 1972 Opel GT)?
Also: are there after market vapor canisters that will do the job? And: is there a source of new, actvated charcoal (I believe that's what they use) for these canisters?

BDD
 

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BDD,

Actually, there have been a number of threads on this exact topic. It's not that the members won't answer this question, but it "might" be because this site has such a good search engine, the answer can be easily found. Try a search for "Charcoal + Weber" and especially read the thread titled "Exhaust or Gas Smell in Interior ( http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=856 ). Give a man a fish, he eats for a day. Teach him to search, and he can find the answer on the www.opelgt.com site... :)

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've already read these. I'll look again. I guess that there is NO connection of the canister to the Weber carb?
I also have read the strings about what lines go where for the distributor vacuum lines, valve cover, carburetor, intake manifold, etc. One problem is that most of the links to photo's and diagrams don't work. Also, in that string at least most of the posts don't make any sense. They're either written unclearly or are just wrong about what to connect where. Some people are suggesting that things just be capped off when in fact there is a proper connection to be made. It takes a lot of reading to piece together the facts sometimes.
 

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BDD said:
I guess that there is NO connection of the canister to the Weber carb?

Only if you have a California smog-legal Weber 32/36. On these models, they provide a brass barb on the top carb cover that leads to the charcoal cannister. Simply a way to vent fuel bowl vapors to the cannister. You could drill and tap the boss on a non-CA Weber, and install a fitting if you wanted.

HTH
 

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Yes, the links to former posts and photos aren't working (yet? Gary?), so it's a bit of a pain. Reading the various posts and making sense of the thoughts are what makes working on Opels fun. There are LOTS of different opinions, and many are right. Different, but right.

I have a number of Webers right now waiting for re-builds and homes (as in running Opels ( :) ) and only one has a vent bowl connection (a 32/36 DGAV with electric idle solenoid, so it must have been a California car). A new 38 DGAS I just bought had the casting hole for a bowl vent, so I drilled it out and tapped it for a barbed connection. Another (a 38 DPS 100, which looks to be a manual choke version of a 38 DGAS with an electric idle solenoid) has no place for a vent bowl connection. My other Webers (a 32 DFM and a 32/36 DFAV) don't have a bowl vent, nor the casting location for one.

The key thing is that NONE of them have a connection to VENT the cannister. The Solex comes with a hose nipple that connects internally to the carb throat, that allows cannister gas to be vented into the engine for combustion. So you need to install a fitting into the air filter assembly, downstream of the filter (so it's the lowest pressure possible, but NOT a vacuum) to connect the cannister vent to. For the top-mount pancake filter, the photo I posted in the referenced thread shows one way to do that. If you are using an adaptor to fit the stock GT filter snorkel, then you need another connection (besides the valve cover vent) to connect the cannister to.

HTH
 

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I placed a "T" fitting in the big line from valve cover to the Weber and ran a line from the canister to the "T". No more gas smell and I am environmentally correct. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
These last responses are excellent. Very informative, and the links work. I've seen some of this before but it's a good source. I'll have to think about it, what to do. The connection from canister to the large valve cover hose sounds like a simple thing to do and it may do essentially the same thing. It also sounds like it works. The barbed connections that I've seen here to the valve cover are also an improvement. The hoses are always a bit difficult to get into place the stock way.

Any info. on activated charcoal sources, or other after-market canisters? I think it might be necessary to replace the old charcoal now and then. It should probably also be disposed of in a safe way.

Thanks
 

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Resurrecting a dead thread/source for activated charcoal to repack charcoal cannister

OK, I know this is a really old thread, but I can't help replying. You can get a pint of activated charcoal at the Petco/Walmart/whatever aquarium department for about six bucks. It comes in hard little pressed pellets that are fairly clean to handle.

Just a FYI for all the environmentally concerned Opellers.
 

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The bulk filter material can be cut to fit the end of the canister as the original foam is likely to be long gone. This will keep the charcoal in the canister.
 

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You"ve got to be kidding me.

The early 68-73's where very dirty running slime balls.
Heck they where running over 3% CO and your worrying about the hydro carbons from the fuel tank?
 

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You"ve got to be kidding me.

The early 68-73's where very dirty running slime balls.
Heck they where running over 3% CO and your worrying about the hydro carbons from the fuel tank?
I think it's more about smelling raw gas fumes than actual emissions. I seem to recall the standards for pre-'74 Opels being 4.75% CO!
 

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Fixing the vent lines on the fuel tank makes the biggest difference in smelling vapors in the interior. I did that and am running a Weber so the the vent lines stop at the rusted out charcoal canister. The raw fuel smell in the car has disappeared. I still have to replace the rubber section on the gas filler - have the piece just need to crawl into the back again :sigh:

Harold.
 

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You"ve got to be kidding me.

The early 68-73's where very dirty running slime balls.
Heck they where running over 3% CO and your worrying about the hydro carbons from the fuel tank?
Come on MAN! were just doing our part for the environment. No need to be a downer!
 
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