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101st Airborne 1/327 Inf
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1,317 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have already installed the ignition, set timing, and adjust the 32/36 but after reading a post by jimsky I am not sure if I am geting the best results. Jimsky wrote not to use the "resisto" clear wire that feeds the coil. Is there a diagram for the Pertronix system in the search engine that I may have missed? I also purchases the 40k flamethrower. :confused:
 

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184 Posts
Proper wiring of the Pertronix and coil has been discussed before, check the following thread:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=665&highlight=pertronix+wiring

I'm not aware of any diagrams, but that's great idea. I'll create a block diagram and schematic using MicroSoft Visio (should be getting the professional version any day now) and save them as Word files. Just another thing to add to the downloadable file section once it gets up and running.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
pertronix

in kwilfords post ...he said to bypass the resistor wire ...he said to connect a new wire from the fusebox to the coil...

my brain is foggy tonight...Ijust got from bugstuff the recommended
3 ohm flamethrower coil and the pertronix 1847 ignitor...

does anyone know where on the fusebox I connect the jump wire and where do I connect on the coil....

thanks inadvance...
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
fuse box ID

this is from a 69owners manual..i think my 70 has the same approx wiring..seems like wire "d" at the fusebox would be the one to use power my new 3 ohm coil and the pertronix....Is this correct.....advise
 

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Super Moderator
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info?

I'd need the instructions for that particular coil to be sure, but in general:

The wire from the (-) side of the old coil to the distributer needs to be removed and discarded, along with the condenser as per the pertronics instructions.

If your coil needs a resistor to work properly, simply connect the origional wire from the old coil to its (+) terminal and it'll be fine. A new wire will need to be run from one of the first 3 fuses to the red wire of the Pertronics, and the black wire from the Pertronics will need to be wired to the (-) side of the coil. All done, fire it up and go for a ride.

If your coil doesn't need a resister to work, then you'll need to run that new wire to the (+) side of the coil as well as the red wire of the Pertronics. The old coil wire will not be used, and can be taped off or removed.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
still foggy

my new coil is a 3ohm coil and it is working fine with my old points
and is working fine with my old wiring.

I now want to ungrade to pertronix ignitor.IS this the oder of progression?

1)un hook neg wire from coil and leave off

2)run a new wire from the fusebox to the pos of the A) coil or B)
red wire of pertronix?

can you exlpain again
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
non fused side

I think I am supposewd to use fig 2 of pertonix diagram ..emclosed below


I heard it is best to wire to a switched wire on the non fused side..which side is that?is it the top of the fusebox or the bottom?
 

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Super Moderator
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no

You have a ballast resistor currently on the car. It is 4 feet long and made out of wire with clear insulation, and it currently runs to the (+) of your coil. If everything works fine now with the points then leave it alone. You need figure 3 above, but to get upstream of the resistor you need to go all the way to the fusebox.

Run a new wire from the fuse box to just the red wire on the pertronics, and not the coil. Attach the black wire from the Pertronics to the (-) side of the coil in place of the current wire you will be discarding from the distributer. That should be all.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
great

I think I have it now.

I will try to wire it switched..w/o a fuse..do you happen to know which is the unswitched side of trhe fusebox?
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
answered own q.

top of the fusebox is unfused..but switched.I am going to wire my ignitor to position "a" of the first fuse on the left..I checked it with a ohm meter and it was switched and w/o the fuse it was still hot at the top of the box..( therefore if I blow a fuse ..my car will still ignite):D
 

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Wouldn't a line fuse be appropriate in the new hot lead? As a followup, why is the tap to the unfused side of the box?
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
bitch is back

RIGHT i HAVE A BIG OLD GRIN ON MY FACE.I just finished my test drive and Celeste is running bitch(bitch is not a dirty word).the bitch started instantly,she ran stronger,faster,and sounds better than any car I have ever been around.the "bitch is back" are words from an elton john song"

only problem is my tachometer is not working .it is lit..I think I have read somewhere that electronic ingition affects this...or did I wire it wrong.:D :D :D
 

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101st Airborne 1/327 Inf
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1,317 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Tach problem

Bucky,
Sent you a PM.. Anyway glad to hear the lady is back.
Now on the original coil hook up the green wire (tach) should go on the - pole on the coil and the black on the + pole.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
tach now works

micah1helped me with the tach problem..I left the green wire off the neg of the coil.thank you Micah1.

car seems to idle faster .with the new ignition and coil.i CANT WAIT TO OPEL TO WORK TOMORROW.

everything is now perfect.

PS:truman: I guess a fuse is not needed for the wire that powers the ignitor.the MG mechanic by my work..he SAID "the ignitor draws very little power and a fuse is not needed.he said it is best to get switched power(such as a horn fuse) and tap in upstream of the fuse so if a fuse blows your car will run"...anyway..call it blind faith ..so that is what I did.

car now pulls stongly to yellow line..it knocks a little..but I have in cheap gas.

PSS:my buddy drove us to lunch to show us his new $42,000 VOLVO...IT WAS NICE. TURBO 5 CYLINDER..FAST ...BUT IT ONLY HAD 2 GAUGES AND A PANEL OF IDIOT LIGHTS..WHAT KIND OF SPORTS CAR IS THAT..PLUS MY SONY DSO STEREO WAS 3X BETTER...SEE MY POST ON KICK PANEL SPEAKERS..BUY OPEL-GT ...MORE FUN FOR THE $...PLUS MY
OPEL SOUNDS LIKE A SPORTS CAR...
 

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101st Airborne 1/327 Inf
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1,317 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
More Pertronix Related Info

FYI

sPARK PLUG GAP W/PERTRONIX IGINTION
HEY JIMSKY,
YOU HAVE BEEN ON THE MONEY EACH TIME WITH THE PERTRONIX SYSTEM SO I HAVE YET ANOTHER QUESTION(S). WITH THE INCREASED VOLTAGE FROM THE FLAME THROWER, WHAT SHOULD I INCREASE MY SPARK PLUG GAP TO? THANKS,
THOMA


Re: sPARK PLUG GAP W/PERTRONIX IGINTION
I opened up the gap on my Bosch Platinum's by about 5-10 thousands. Nonimal gap is 0.030 so I'm about 0.035 to 0.040. Seems to work fine.

.

Jimsky
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,956 Posts
PICTORIAL

i DO BETTER WITH A PICTURE THAN WORDS..i HOPE THIS HELPS OUT THE NEXT NEWBY..THE FOLLOWING PHOTO IS CORRECT AND WORKS CORRECT FOR MY 70 GT.
THE CONFUSING "POINT" TO ME WAS WIRING A SINGLE WIRE FROM THE FUSEBOX TO POWER THE IGNITOR.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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conflicts

FYI: to anyone that tries to follow theses posts on electronic ignition..the way I set mine up is different than the way described by kwilford/jimsky..they describe a new wire to power the coil.

I did not use a new wire for the coil.I used the old power wire ..which I guess is the resistor wire to power the new flamethrower coil..The 2 ways to do the job is confusing and I don't know the "ins and outs of each" way to do this install.


I have read from Jimsky and others..if you make an error you will burn out you r ignitor...which is expensive.

the way I did the install follwing oldopel method is fast and easy,,
seee my last photo.

I think I could redo someones gt in 30 min or less....now that I know.

Car drove awesome today to work.Starts quick
 

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101st Airborne 1/327 Inf
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1,317 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
WIRING

BUCKY FROM WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD IF YOU USE THE RESISTOR WIRE YOU LIMIT THE AMOUNT OF VOLTAGE TO THE FLAMETHROWER. JIMSKY INFORMED ME THE CORRECT HOOK UP IS THE NEW 14 GAUGE FROM THE FUSEBOX TO THE NEW COIL. THAT WORKS FOR THE BOTH OF US. YOU DO NOT USE THE OLD POWER SOURCE. BY THE WAY YOU NEED TO EMPTY YOUR PM MAILBOX.
 

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Just a clarification. I did help a member sort out his Petronix ignitor installation as follows:

He upgraded to the standard Petronix Ignitor 1847V and a Pertronix FlameThrower coil. He did not use the Opel resistor wire to power the coil, since that is not needed with the FlameThrower coil. The car would run for a bit, but then the ignitor would smoke and fail; it happened twice.

We finally figured out the wrong FlameThrower coil was sold to him. Our GT's need the 3.0 ohm coil, he was given a 0.6 ohm coil by mistake.

Without the resistor wire (to provide some current limiting) the electronic switch in the ignitor assembly sees about 4 amps of current with the 3.0 ohm coil. But that goes to 20 amps if a 0.6 ohm coil is mistakenly used. The 1847V ignitor is not rated for this excessive current...so it turned itself into a "voltage to smoke converter".

The correct 3.0 ohm coil was installed with a new ignitor, and everything worked fine.
 
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