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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
have a 32/36 DGAV, but its an electric choke, must have been converted at sometime. have a couple questions

1. i read somewhere the stock solex ball-linkage can be filed down to fit the weber so nothing has to be bought, is this correct?

2. and when its cold, the thing likes to scream. snap the throttle and the RPMs come down, but then you can't keep it running and it dies. my 82 shortbox chevy with a 250 Cubic inch Canadion smog motor does the EXACT same thing. i dont care about the truck tho, i'd rather the motor blow up so i can put my 327 in it. i just let it run balls to the wall for about 5 minutes and then the RPMS suddenly drop down to an idle eventually. i like my Opel, and i dont want it to do that, why would it do that? i dont have the heat shield in it anymore, does that have anything to do with it?
 

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Jared,

Yes, you need to use the ball nut and slotted bracket from the Solex on the Weber. Just replace the existing nut with the ball nut and bracket.

Sounds like in both cases (even though I have never heard of a "Canadion" smog motor. Canadian, eh?) your fast idle screw needs adjusting. It's a second idle screw that comes in contact with a "fast idle cam" that moves into position when the choke is closed or partially closed, to keep the engine from stalling due to the restricted intake caused by the choke plate. If the engine warms up and the choke plate opens, the idle speed will increase. "Kicking" the throttle disengages the fast idle screw from the fast idle cam. Is THAT clear as mud? But the fast idle screw (I believe it faces the opposite way from the normal idle screw on the Weber) might just need to be backed out a 1/2 turn or so, to keep the engine from over-revving.

HTH
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yep, canadian, yet another typo from me. i dont know why they call it a canadian motor. its basically a normal straight 6, chevy HEI distributor and everything, but its got some goofy square two barrell carb thats HUGE and a bunch of steel tubes going from the valve cover tot he exhaust manifold. books call it a canadian 250 "6"
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oh yeah now that keith cleared up 2 issues, does the heat shield need to be used? dad tried explaining something to be about how i should use it because there might be some vacuum ports or something in the bottom of the carb and some other stuff about flow, i really didnt wanna pay attention at that point in time and it all went in one ear and out the other.
 

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Now Jared, listen to your father. As if my daughters do. :)

But yes, use the heat shield. It reduces the radiant heat being transmitted from the exhaust manifold to the carb, which in turn reduces the amount of heat transmitted into the gasoline in the float bowl, and will reduce "percolating" (boiling) of the gas in the bowl. It's a "good thing".
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
he didnt say anything about that, but thats enough to convince me to put it back on. thanks alot keith
 

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greensmurf20 said:
yep, canadian, yet another typo from me. i dont know why they call it a canadian motor. its basically a normal straight 6, chevy HEI distributor and everything, but its got some goofy square two barrell carb thats HUGE and a bunch of steel tubes going from the valve cover tot he exhaust manifold. books call it a canadian 250 "6"
And here I thought "Canadion" was Quebecoise! ;)
 
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