Opel GT Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Senior Contributor
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:eek: Cracked oil pan..idea's?

Cracked oil pan.

Putting the new engine in the car today I notices a horrible sight…oil.. pouring out from under the car. First I looked at the end of the trany to see if my plastic seal had come off but it was still there. Then I looked at the oil pan thinking the new plastic (not telfon) seal on the plug was bad as I had purchased it earlier today.

The plug seemed to be dripping so I assumed it was to blame as the pan was now emptyas the oil was all over the floor.. so I cleaned up the 4 quarts of oil and trooped back to the parts store a bit on the agrivated side as the manager had assured me that the seal would work.

He not being there I purchased a new plug with a better seal and went back to put it in… then I found it. It is about an inch long about an inch and a half back from the plug, running side to side, an inch long crack seeping oil… That also explained the cracking noise I had heard when I hung the engine up trying to get the trany up over suspention and off the welded in headers..

So my options are



1. best case a new Manta oil pan….but I don’t have one I have one off a GT but it seams that it is a bit different and I wonder if it will work in the Manta. Try to find a Manta pan

2 take the cracked pan to be welded. Can oil pans be welded?

Both these mean Pulling the engine again but I guess better safe than sorry.

3 try the stuff that you use on Gas tanks but do I trust a new unstarted 3grand engine to that???

Ideas or imput appriciated
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
86 Posts
first-hand experience

I've seen them weld-repaired quite nicely.
 

·
4ZUA787
Joined
·
665 Posts
id find a new r used good one or get it welded a weld would work fine on the oil pan if its steal and if its aluminium jus make sure they tig it and due a good job, dont now bout the gt pan though.
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Degrease It!

I presume you are talking the cast alloy pan here.

First - drill a 3mm hole at each end of the crack to prevent further cracking.

Then - thoroughly degrease the pan in a warm degreasing bath ( try a commercial paint shop or local manufacturing plant that does its own painting for a good commercila degreasing set up.
HINT: a dozen "Buds" can work wonders - or better still a couple of NZ SteinLargers ......).

Now - get it welded by a professional welder - the bike shops always know who the best in the area is..)

Next - Don't be a "Rough Boy" again! :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,843 Posts
GTJIM said:
Next - Don't be a "Rough Boy" again! :)
All good advice Jim....

But there's a reason I don't use aluminum Opel oil pans.....they always seem to crack with little reason. I've never lost an engine from one, but I know a few people who have had complete engine failure from a cracked pan losing all its' oil. In my younger days I jumped a Manta of mine at about 95 mph over some railroad tracks. I broke the distance 'record' by about 20 feet
(more than 3 feet vertically), but the engine mounts compressed so much upon landing the pan hit the ground, crushing it upwards by about an inch. Never leaked, never hurt the engine. I only use steel now.....

Just remember if you decide to swap over to a steel pan the pickup tube is different.
 

·
4ZUA787
Joined
·
665 Posts
wellon my gt it seems that if i were to hit say a large speed bump at say 20 or so mph it would still not hit the oil pan but hit the exhaust first, jus wondering bout this since ive been thinking of taking mine up to some dirt roads and doing a lill dirt racing in my gt because i mean ive tried driving up over curbs and stuff in my gt and it doesnt scratcha thing i love the ground clearnce.
 

·
Senior Contributor
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I do believe that the pan is steel... and if it is steel it should weld up.. I don't have it in front of me (the garage is 11 miles away) but having just painted it I think that it was steel..


I only have the one pickup tube… so I will fix this one and I guess I am in the market for a steel manta one. Somehow the slope to the collector part of the pan seems to be quite different between the one on my Manta and the spare which was off a GT motor. Also the front U shaped opening is much longer on the Gt and my Manta Gasket is too short. The Manta drains from the bottom and the Gt one from the side.



Since I am puling the pan anyway is the "buy it now" $49.00 crank scraper on Ebay a recommended item? Take a look at the pic. Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tegory=46098&sspagename=WDVW#ebayphotohosting

Are these reliable, do they work and is this a reputable maker?
 

·
Senior Contributor
Joined
·
730 Posts
:eek: DIRT TRACKING A GT!!!!!! pvcar, I would think your GT deserves better. Get yourself a nice old toyota or datsun. They are cheaper to fix up and cheap enough to be disposible. Not telling you how to live, just asking to treat the little GT with her proper respect :eek: .
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,802 Posts
not without some work

That crank scraper isn't going to fit without some work due to your longer stroke anyway, Calvin. I'm a bit squeemish about how the curved ends of the oil pan will seal with the pan spaced off the block by the thickness of the scraper and another gasket. I can see only trouble from it.

That said, if you are having the pan welded, it might be possible to make your own scraper that style, or even buy that one and modify it, and have it welded into the oil pan when it gets fixed. Then there wouldn't be any additional leak concerns.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top