Opel GT Forum banner

Creasy's Retirement Hobby

9821 Views 178 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  ccreasy
All,
Has anyone tried airbrush touchups?

Thanks in advance,
Chris
1 - 20 of 179 Posts
Here's my thoughts and what I discovered from paint chip repair on YouTube videos(Another source of information about various car things you might also consider).:

Paint chip repair generally requires multiple dabs of VERY precisely applied drops of touch up paint until you have built up the chipped area to at least the height of the existing paint, if not above. Then, if you insist upon absolutely smooth undetectable perfection you need to do laborious very fine sanding/buffing and maybe use of a clay bar. Less perfection is up to you.

Spray paints, and air brushing also, are generally inferior to brush on paints, because they need thinning fluids added to them to make them sprayable and they don't cure properly and can run easily as a result.

From my personal experience, finding touch up paint that exactly matches my car is a PIA. If I did the whole polishing and sanding thing they would probably not be noticable, but I don't so they are.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Airbrushing or any spraying will only work if the edges of the area to be painted are feather edged. Otherwise, a lot of sanding is required to level the area and you run the risk of damaging paint beyond the flaw.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
All,
Thanks for the responses.

Chris
  • Like
Reactions: 1
All,
Has anyone tried airbrush touchups?

Thanks in advance,
Chris
Chris, for a car in the condition of yours unless it was a serious need for a touch up.....just drive it and enjoy it. If there are damages that need repaired, especially with the condition of your car, I would take it to a professional for doing a proper blend job. I use a touch up gun on small area's which can be turned down as fine as a 1/4" circle but as noted, I am not a professional, just a hobbyist so I can make it look good, but you will still see my blend lines. I have friends that are pro's and their blend lines are very difficult to find.
  • Like
  • Helpful
Reactions: 2
Airbrushing or any spraying will only work if the edges of the area to be painted are feather edged. Otherwise, a lot of sanding is required to level the area and you run the risk of damaging paint beyond the flaw.
Sanding is required to help the paint bond, however modern paints with a blending additive do not require sanding to level out. Instead you are adding layers, to blend in one area to the other. Then you may have to polish out to further blend in the new layers to the old layers and get rid of any haze.
  • Like
  • Helpful
Reactions: 2
All,
I wanted to inform you that the oil spray under the hood is completely gone. Thanks you for the help.

Next projects:
  1. Correct the transmission leak by replacing the Speedometer with GPS. Replacement dash and Instrument wiring harness will be purchased from Suselbeek in The Netherlands (My dash instrument posts are broken and missing, and the wiring harness is the original.) This project will continue through the winter.
  2. Replace fuel sending unit. - 2022 Q3 Project
  3. Replace the old mechanical fuel pump gasket. There may be a leak. - 2022 Q3 Project
  4. Paint the mid exhaust muffler bracket. It rusty and just looks bad. - 2022 Q3 Project
  5. Investigate possible rear end leak. - 2022 Q4 Project
  6. Reassemble spare tire compartment. - 2022 Q4 Project
Thanks for all your help and support,
Chris C.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Glad to hear you're making progress. As we often say here: You're never done working on your Opel. You might get all the stock stuff working great, but then you decide to start upgrading things for more power, comfort, functionality, etc.

I wouldn't bother painting that muffler bracket if it's rusty, just get a new one. Muflers, unless they're stainless steel, rust. That's what they do and pretty quickly.

In my experience and many others, the hanger donuts(or other shapes on the market) are a perpetual PIA. I seem to have at least one of the 4 break once a year. It's usually not catastrophic, but an annoyance. Those 2 round posts that hold the donuts at the muffler are a complete joke(The "mid-muffler" is the muffler, the one at the back is a resonator that is basically a hollow tin can. It's purpose, which it fails miserably at, is to "shape" the sound of the exhaust.). Often muffler shops will alter those round posts to hold straps and they'll weld rod hooks to the muffler.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Yep. They welded posts to my muffler.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Glad to hear you're making progress. As we often say here: You're never done working on your Opel. You might get all the stock stuff working great, but then you decide to start upgrading things for more power, comfort, functionality, etc.

I wouldn't bother painting that muffler bracket if it's rusty, just get a new one. Muflers, unless they're stainless steel, rust. That's what they do and pretty quickly.

In my experience and many others, the hanger donuts(or other shapes on the market) are a perpetual PIA. I seem to have at least one of the 4 break once a year. It's usually not catastrophic, but an annoyance. Those 2 round posts that hold the donuts at the muffler are a complete joke(The "mid-muffler" is the muffler, the one at the back is a resonator that is basically a hollow tin can. It's purpose, which it fails miserably at, is to "shape" the sound of the exhaust.). Often muffler shops will alter those round posts to hold straps and they'll weld rod hooks to the muffler.
Drilling a tiny hole 1/16" at the very bottom of the round hangers and installing an "R" Clip not only keeps the rubber hangers from falling off, but it will make them last longer by spreading out the stress points.
Automotive tire Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system
See less See more
  • Like
  • Love
  • Helpful
Reactions: 5
Drilling a tiny hole 1/16" at the very bottom of the round hangers and installing an "R" Clip not only keeps the rubber hangers from falling off, but it will make them last longer by spreading out the stress points. View attachment 446657


Great simple idea.

Thanks,
Chris C
Note to self,
The following tasks were completed on 8/13 to 14:
  • Replace fuel sending unit. - Removed, cleaned and reinstalled. Working correctly now.
  • Paint the mid exhaust muffler bracket. It rusty and just looks bad. Removed, painted and reinstalled
  • Investigate possible rear end leak. - Removed old shime and installed new metal shimes.
Next projects:
  1. Correct the transmission leak by replacing the Speedometer with GPS. Replacement dash and Instrument wiring harness will be purchased from Suselbeek in The Netherlands (My dash instrument posts are broken and missing, and the wiring harness is the original.) This project will continue through the winter.
  2. Replace the old mechanical fuel pump gasket. There may be a leak. - 2022 Q3 Project
  3. Reassemble spare tire compartment. - 2022 Q4 Project
Thanks for all your help and support,
Chris C.
See less See more
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: 3
  • Investigate possible rear end leak. - Removed old shime and installed new metal shimes.
What is a "shime" ?
What shims did you replace? Thats one of the most difficult things to do on a GT is get the rear end shims right. I also cannot see how a shim would cause a leak. (At least not without lots of other audible issues while driving)
What shims did you replace? Thats one of the most difficult things to do on a GT is get the rear end shims right. I also cannot see how a shim would cause a leak. (At least not without lots of other audible issues while driving)
Perhaps Chris is meaning the outer axle bearing/seal shim(s) on the '71 and later differentials, used to ensure sufficient "crush" of the bearing in the differential housing recess, such that the bearing doesn't rotate or move in the recess.

But to solve a leak from that location, the sealed bearing might require replacement, or at very least the o-ring that seals the sealed bearing to the differential.

There are also two outer gaskets; one between the differential housing and retaining plate, and the other between the retaining plate and the outer sheet metal dust shield. But they do not "seal" oil leaks. The gaskets merely direct any oil that does leak past the sealed bearing out the weep channel in the dust shield, away from the brake shoes.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Drilling a tiny hole 1/16" at the very bottom of the round hangers and installing an "R" Clip not only keeps the rubber hangers from falling off, but it will make them last longer by spreading out the stress points.
"Also known as hitch pin clips and R-clips, these pins are easy to install and remove. Use them to secure the ends of clevis pins and shafts to keep components in place."
Shamelessly copied from McMaster-Carr. :sneaky:

Harold
  • Love
Reactions: 1
All,
I’m sorry for the confusion and delayed response. I was traveling internationally and had spotty connections. I confused the group with my task title. I was able to address a couple of issues regarding the rear of the car.
  • Seal the rear body of the car to prevent fumes from migrating into the interior. I sealed the Sheetmetal seams with a body sealant.
  • Shim the gas tank to correct alignment of the tank discharge line with the hole in the rear body floor. To prevent fitting leaks.
Thanks,
Chris C
  • Like
Reactions: 3
1 - 20 of 179 Posts
Top