[GoinManta]

NOW you've got my attention!

Can you tell me more about this option. What's included and what do I need to do?

You would need an ECU still ( Micro would work ) and then you would use tuner studio to simply dial it in.

 

[GoinManta]

Got a bunch of parts in for the kit.. and more coming soon.

But of course not everythign went perfect.. CLOSE but not perfect. The amount of time and money in the intake is only surpassed by this bushing. Which was my first 3D printed part (middle center #1) as requirements changed and flaws were found we are one more CNC project from completing it.

#2 - ( Ver 4 ) Added mount for ICM ( Ignition Control Module )

#3 - ( Ver 4b)

sure I was done.. So paid for 3D printing in SLS to see what that would look like

#4 - ( Ver 9 ) Deleted the bushing at the bottom ( Distributor already has bushings ), and cleaned up a few details. So 2 time I was a

sure and had printed with the final version of the intake to ensure dimensional accuracy.

#5 - (Ver 16) again I was

sure final version was perfect, so had 30 CNCd'

#6 - (Version 17D) : Found out drive gear wouldnt pass through the housing, and realized the ICM pointing up might not look as good as pointing down, also that allowed for a smaller heatsink. Also the base going into the distributor was a bit tight and would need trimmed to fit easily into the timing cover ( Did you know plastic gives and aluminum not so much ? )

#7 ( not shown ) : Will be the version sent with the kits. It will be AL as well.

The current #6 is going to the machine shop for modifications. ( Drilling out the center and trimming to fit the timing cover better ).

So like the Caps, there will be definite updates to version #2 of the kit.. Making the first version more "collectible"

)

So not only is all this money and time invested.. if I hadn't gone down this rabbit whole.. I wouldn't be at Version 18 of the intake.

 

[GoinManta]

Just when I thought I was done. I realized I forgot the IAT (Intake Air Temp sensor).

AS I want to make this kit as bolt on and easy as possible I went to work finding one ( a std Bosch one from a 93 Golf should work.. ) and a way to mount it..

Well looky here.. a bolt on cover for the IAC, that is hidden on the bottom, and would be a perfect place for it.. So ordered one.

BUT cover wasnt thick enough.. well break out the 3D Printer..

Measure
Design
Print
Send to manufacturer

and well these will be part of the kit too now..

 

[Autoholic]

I was about to ask if the rabbit hole had found China yet, but then I realized where all the parts were being made.

 

[GoinManta]

The first batch of flow bench results are in..

FROM BOB :

Okay, semi-stock low-port tests are complete.
No surprise, but your intake did well here.
Better than stock 2-bbl intake.
Better than Steinmetz angled SSD intake.
Better than my ported Cannon 2-bbl Holley intake.
Better than stock EFI intake by a tiny bit.

Tiny bit less flow than an as-cast Cannon Dual Side Draft intake.
If you want peak flow numbers, here they all are at .500" lift.

Bare head
(1.5 head with 1.65"/1.34" valves and bowls blended) - 99 cfm

Stock 2-bbl intake - 89 cfm
Stock 1.9 EFI intake - 93 cfm

Steinmetz angled SSD - 77 cfm
Cannon 2-bbl (ported) - 88.5 cfm
Stock Cannon DSD intake - 95 cfm

Goin Manta EFI intake - 93.5 cfm

Nothing to be ashamed of for sure. Good job!

The interesting thing, I think, will be on my big-valve race ported 1.9 head. I'm pretty confident your intake will do better than ALL the others here. My mild street low-port 1.5 head is pretty indicative of a standard Euro 2.0 head, or a 1.9 head with 1.72/1.50 Chevy valves with ZERO porting. So while a bad intake will show itself easily, a good intake hasn't had a chance yet to stretch its' legs out yet. My opinion anyway. Based on experience and gut feeling. Guess we'll see tomorrow! This took way longer than I thought, lol.

 

[The Scifi Guy]

WOWOWIE!

Congratulations Charlie! 🤩🥰 🥰🤩

(I'm glad I talked you into making these.) 🤪

Thanks Bob for doing the testing!!! 🤩🥰🥰🤩

Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! Can't wait to see how the high port variant tests out!

😀

 

[GoinManta]

In Chart Form

 

[GoinManta]

Day #2 - Race Prepped Head

Dropped the Steinmetz from the chart and added a set of single race ported and flowed Magnolesti Dual Side Drafts

 

[GoinManta]

Next project.

A universal thermostat housing. Will have a AN8 fitting, a M12x1.5, and a 1/8" - 27 BSPT ( Thermostat sending unit.. )

Holding off on maiking it until I get the intake back to confirm it will work. Its tight there. So.. The cool thin is the bolt goes through the housings so you dont have to fight trying to get it on. Uses the same T-stat as the Opel /GM SBC. We will see..

 

[GoinManta]

The almost done kit.. Removed the ICM and remade the (^%$#@&^$# distributor bushing AGAIN. Because found a better coil with no need for the ICM and there was the question of heat on the ICM as well.. so win win.

 

[The Scifi Guy]

I have a couple of thoughts on design revisions to give you based upon my experience with 2 of your previous mini-multi-port-stats. I'll talk with you......

 

[GoinManta]

So back is :

3/8NPT ( Generic bung from Hardware store or a 3/8NPT to any AN size you would like )
1/8-27 BSPT VDO sensor
12x1.5 for bosch sensor

Its about as high as the stock unit with the AC adapter so it will clear AC systems.

The left and right holes have threads so you can put a plug in it depending on if a 2.4 or a 1.9 head.

Allows for a 2.4L to have a bypass if they want to in the head.

Getting one professionally 3 printed as we speak to test fit.

I WAS thinking of a front port for a hose to the stock low port water pump so instead of drilling the head for a bypass you use a 5/8" hose on a 2.4L head.

Like my intake this would be the only housing on the market designed to work on either head.

 

[GoinManta]

 

[The Scifi Guy]

View attachment 455059
View attachment 455060 View attachment 455061

So back is :

3/8NPT ( Generic bung from Hardware store or a 3/8NPT to any AN size you would like )
1/8-27 BSPT VDO sensor
12x1.5 for bosch sensor

Its about as high as the stock unit with the AC adapter so it will clear AC systems.

The left and right holes have threads so you can put a plug in it depending on if a 2.4 or a 1.9 head.

Allows for a 2.4L to have a bypass if they want to in the head.

Getting one professionally 3 printed as we speak to test fit.

I WAS thinking of a front port for a hose to the stock low port water pump so instead of drilling the head for a bypass you use a 5/8" hose on a 2.4L head.

Like my intake this would be the only housing on the market designed to work on either head.

Is height an issue? One of my gripes with the one from Denmark is that the 2 sensor ports are too close to the upper radiator hose. This makes it almost impossible to remove the plugs from the sensors without removing the upper radiator hose and the same deal when trying to plug the sensors in. A bit more gap between front mounted sensors and the upper radiator hose would be nice. I also totally don't like the heater hose or sensors coming out the rearward side of the housing, they get in the way of accessing the manifold bolt in that vicinity and it sucks to have sensor wiring pointing in that direction, which necessitates wrapping the wire around the 'stat housing to the front. I also don't like the oem location of the heater outlet pointing rearwards over top of the manifolds, mainly for aesthetic reasons, but also because of the heat baking of the hose and sensor wires(if you put sensors on the rearward side).

 

[RallyBob]

I also don't like the oem location of the heater outlet pointing rearwards over top of the manifolds, mainly for aesthetic reasons.

Yea, I’ve always hated that, especially on the Manta/Ascona. It literally goes over the intake manifold to the back of the engine. Nothing like exhaust head drying out and cracking your heater hoses! Not to mention it’s always in the way of installing manifolds, and if you remove the hose, coolant dumps onto your exhaust.

I typically block the rear thermostat hole and add a -10AN to the front. Then with a 90° fitting you can steer it for a GT, or for a Manta as desired. Much cleaner.

 

[GoinManta]

All the ports are on the rear.

It is about 13mm taller and won't be a problem as the AC space for the ARA AC was about that and fit under the hood of the GT.

That said maybe over thinking it.. this on the Opel GT source one.. would work too.. Maybe

I mean it looks to have a hole for a 12mm sensor in it..

Dorman 902-2015 Dorman Thermostat Housings | Summit Racing

To be honest now that I found this cover.. I will probably try the sidedraft tstat housing and this cap.. at least as an option on the first kits.

 

[GThound]

I WAS thinking of a front port

I could have used one of these when modernizing / building my ‘75 EFI. It was a lot of jumping through hoops, sawing, trying to figure out configuration, TIG welding funny angles, etc. and I could use one on my 2.4 stroker build.

out of curiosity… how are you going to manufacture it once the design work is done? Would it be cast aluminum? CNC machined aluminum? I am guessing you would only manufacture the thermostat housing (the part that is unique) that bolts onto the head and it would work with a thermostat housing cover (the bluish / green part in your drawing) off the shelf from any auto parts store.

 

[GThound]

I typically block the rear thermostat hole and add a -10AN to the front.

This is essentially what I did when modifying my thermostat housing to not interfere with my Fuel Injection manifold. I sawed off the rear facing aluminum port, TIG welded the hole shut, drilled a new hole and TIG welded the old spout in a new location. I just wasn’t clever enough to think of an AN fitting… that is brilliant!

 

[GoinManta]

I will probably not make these.. That said there still needs to be a 2.4L option out there.. so Maybe I do anyway ? But for low port heads..

Not sure why I didn't find this sooner.. Problem solved for the 12.5x1 temp sensor location issue

 

[GoinManta]

So the balance report..

The GoinEFI ( in Gold ), The Steinmetz angled intake ( in Green ), Bare head in Black and the base line 2.2L intake

The Goin Manta basically mirrors the bare head in curve, and is a bout a 5-7% increase in flow over a 2.2L EFI intake. Would it have been nice to be even flow on all ports.. sure. At worst it was 5% difference between ports.. less than the bare ports, so given the ports themselves werent even.. I will call it a wash.

That said, Bob tested all four of the Steinmetz angled intake and it wasn't pretty.

The Steinmetz angled intake was all over the place #2 and #3 were close to the GoinEFI ( and in the case of #2 it even beat it..)

But #1 and #4 (especially) were WELL below the 2.2L.

In short there was a 25% difference in flow between #4 and #2..

The good ports were 10-15% better than the stock 2.2L and the bad ports were 20% worse than the baseline..

Its amazing a car can even run on the Angled Stienmetz manifold.