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Opel Kadetts used the front suspension crossmember as the mounting for the engine, and the crossmember is essentially the same as the GT's. So no problem dealing with the weight of the engine there. I would fabricate another crossmember where the OEM engine crossmember mounts attached....just to tie the framerails together from side to side.

Bob
 

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19693SGTEOPEL said:
I have a question on this too? My engine bolts up the same exact spot as the oem 1900 spot. but should i bolt it up metal to metal like this racing shop said or should i use rubber/polly mounts i am verry skeptical of bolting the engine directly to the metal. a lot of noise and posibility of damage. I dont know why they told me to do it direct when i asked they said it would deliver more power onto the road? doubtable its that siginificant.
Solid mounts don't tranfer any more power to the road, but they really DO improve the response time. I.E, a blip of the throttle will help 'set' the chassis mid-turn with a lot less effort than with rubber mounts, as the torque is not being absorbed by the mounts but rather being directed to the drive wheels virtually instantaneously.

But, solid mounts will be virtually undriveable for the street. Horrendous vibrations. AND, out of the three mounts (both engine mounts and the tranny mount), at least ONE of them has to have compliancy, or something will break. Like the bellhousing, or the block, or the mounting bracket. Even on racing vehicles, I always ran one pliable mount. I used a solid tranny mount, and one solid engine mount, with one urethane mount. I made the 'compression' side out of urethane, to absorb the twisting motion but reduce the chances of mount breakage.
 
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