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One thing I have in my tool box that may work perfectly in this case is a 1/4 inch drive 6 inch extension that is nothing more than a dual wound spring with male and female ends on it. Think of a stiff speedometer cable that is 1/4 inch diameter. I've had that thing for years and it has proven invaluable over the years for getting into hard spots that a straight shaft screwstick won't get to easily without stripping the head of the screw, predominatley cross-points. I think they still have them at Sears. HTH.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for all the ideas, I finally got a long phillips screwdriver and a long flat blade. Using "jlthunder's" technic the screws all came out in about 5 minutes. Now I know what some of you are thinking.... yea, but he hasn't put it back in yet. Well, one thing at the time. I finally got the heater out, the core is shot but the fan motor looks ok, I cleaned it and oiled the bearings as best I could. I'll get a new heater core made for it.... I don't want to ever have to dig into the dash this deep again!
 

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I was at my local sears today saw that thay sell a flexable 1/4 drive extention that might work nicelyto remove the screws in the top of dash Dennis
 

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Quick question

Does the heater core assembly lay in some type of steel cradle in the sheet metal structure behind the dash? It seems like in all of the pictures of interiors with the dash and heater core removed that the assembly sits in/on a shelf-like cradle. On my car, when I lay down on the passenger side floor board, it looks like part of the assembly that hangs down. It is some kind of plastic housing and the only thing I can think of is that thats the assembly. Does the heater core assembly drop down or pull straight out?

Thanks
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Matt-
It pulls straight out. It is a fairly good sized plastic housing that slides into a sheetmetal box and effectively sticks into the engine bay. If you open the hood and look at the box structure right there next to the carb, you can see the heater hose pipes. They do not stick out too far from the heater housing, so it should give you a good idea of how big the housing is and where it sits.
 

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Ok, thanks. So that should be the bottom of the plastic housing that I am looking at when I'm on my back on the floorboard looking at where the dash pad ends?
 

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Matt, if you think of a box laying on it's side, that's pretty much the way the heater assembly goes in the GT. The dash does have to come out to get it out. Two nuts and one bolt and it slides out easily, the control panel, cables and ducts you can remove or leave on, your choice. I'd pull the ducts but leave the control panel and cables attached. That way there's nothing to mess with or have to adjust later on.
 

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To add to what Ron said, you may as well get the steel heater control unit that OGTS sells. Every plastic one I've ever seen is cracked, or will crack later. All mine are. :( Jarrell
 

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Good point Jarrell. I got one in Willit?, pricey, but a work of art and fairly easy to change too. Much better to have a piece of solid aluminum that the levers move in than a piece of age-hardened, brittle plastic.
 

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Finally got the heater core assembly out. I used Greensmurf's method described earlier. I hate to think of how the re-installation will be. My dad took the heater core and cleaned it with aluminum cleaning acid for mag wheels. Did not know the heater core was brass - no need to have it re-cored. Has anyone ever had to re-core/ replace their heater core? Where does the fan draw air from?
 

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I didn't have my heater core redone, but I took it to a radiator shop and they professionally cleaned it and pressure tested it. It only cost a couple bucks. I didn't want to have to do this twice:rolleyes:

Jeff
 

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Matt, if you need to replace the heater core, any radiator shop should be able to fix you up. Just take the old one in and see what they can do for you. The big thing is that your end caps are o.k., or at least repairable. The air for the heater box comes in from the base of the windshield at the end of the wiper well, the same place air comes in through the dash vents and kick panel vents. HTH.
 

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i pulled a dashpad last week or the week before with a windshield out first. i've never had problems pulling the windshields out and for a uncracked dash, its worth pulling the windshield to not risk cracking the dash to me. windshields pop out in 10 minutes, pry the corner stainless pieces out, pull the filler strip out, use a plastic bodyfiller spreader to break the seal between the glass and seal. then you can sit inside the car and push from the inside out near the top of the winddow, trying to push it out evenly. once you get the top to begin coming out of the seal, its easy as can be from there. 10 minutes later the glass is leaning next to the garage and lets you pull the pad out and put it back 3 times faster.
 

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Greensmurf20 is the way to go if you are comfortable with removing the windshield. You can then replace the cracked windshield rubber while you are there.

If you don't remove the windshield, getting the screws by the windshield back in is a pain. I used a long thin flat blade screwdriver to get them back in. It must be thin to give you some flex in the screwdriver because it is not a straight shot to the screws.

One more thing. If the temp outside starts to dip, I'd hold off putting the dashpad in (with winshield installed) because the dash pad is less flexiable when it gets cooler. Don't risk cracking a good dash pad. I took mine out in Sept and it did not go back in until a warm April day.

Just my 0.02

Jeff
 

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Opeler
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heater core connections

the manual says to drain the radiator and pull the hoses to the heater core before removal. is this really necessary?
 

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Well, let's look at it this way. The radiator is above the heater core, the heater core is a straight shot to the radiator through the water pump, water seeks it's own level, the hoses to the heater core have to be disconnected to get the heater core out of the box inside the car. Whatcha think?
 

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Opeler
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I'm in the middle of this process and I think I'm pulling the windshield. I haven't really even tried the screws but I can't find flexible screwdrivers anywhere, bought a flex 1/4 drive but by the time the attachement for a bit (which I don't have the right one of) is on there, the flex won't start until too late, if you follow me.
At the risk of posting the same thing in two threads. I'm looking for last minute tips. All gaskets are pretty new, I already pulled the chrome strip, couldn't resist. It looks easy as pie. Is it a pain to put back in? Where and how does the "rope" thing come in? Or not?
 

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I just did this (like in the other post I replied to on this) just a few days ago!

I would remove the windshield again in a SECOND. It was MUCH EASIER than first thought. Removing is a piece of cake if you DON'T care about the seal. Your on your own if you want to keep it. Save the headache and just replace it. I used a straight razor and cut the gasket (carefully of course) around the glass and gave it a gentle push from the inside to free it. I was doing this solo, but a 3 hand might help for safety.

Installing it was even easier then removing it. What you do is put the gasket on the windshield before installing it. Then take a 18 gauge electrical wire (thin but strong) and stuff it in the groove of the gasket around the window where the frame of the car would be going. I took a single piece of wire and made it so it ended at the top of the window. Then all I did was simply place the windshield over the frame. Don't even bother trying to muscle it on....the wire is going to do the work for you. Be sure to have some wire sticking out from the inside (both ends) so you can slowly start pulling it out. It will PULL the rubber out and around the frame and start pulling the window in. I didn't even TOUCH the windshield at this point. All I did was zip the wire out and it popped in on its own. Like I said....I'd do it all over again. I wouldn't hesitate to pop the window out again if I needed to.

HTH
 

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Wow, that's reassuring. PO must have replaced the gasket because it looks new and is nice and pliable, I can easily peel back the outside edge and see the edge of the glass and I can sort of roll the gasket inside the car and see it "separate" from the glass a bit. I'm thinking some soapy water teased between the glass and gasket from inside the car, just to help. Get a buddy over and start pushing.
I have so much I want to do under this dash I'd rather have all that access. The side vents, the ones with the little lever (BTW how do those knobs come off?) are not connected to anything and just flopping around, the defrost vents are looking crappy behind the OGTS vinyl cover. The start of this whole thing was a heater valve not hooked up and the cable frozen. Add in the fact the stereo wasn't working and well, bye bye windshield.
Can't quite envision the wire thing yet but I'm sure it will make sense when the time comes.
Oh, yeah, the "chrome" strip isn't and should be anyway, so all signs point to pop it out I'd say.
 
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