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I appreciate the replies. With this long term intermittent clunking for the last 3 years it seems logical to me now that the main pinion bearing would be worn. Things have gradually gotten more sloppy over the years, so…. gradual that it’s something that you hardly notice, until the funny noise or noises come.

I’m going to take a little movie of what I see, I’ll have my daughter who’s now taking a big interest in the mechanics, turn the drive shaft like I was doing back and forth, we’ll rotate the wheels too. Hopefully it can be somewhat educational. Any further suggestions on how to proceed would be helpful. I’ve also been reading and watching videos on open differentials to try and learn the general concept.

I wasn’t going to, but now I’m going to remove the cover on my 73’ rear differential and attempt a similar inspection before installing it.
I’m going to get this version of “The Right Stuff”, as this isn’t supposed to clog as easily? Hopefully one’s just as good as the other.

Thanks again for everyone’s input and help.
The right stuff now comes in various types, upon my retirement, 1 minute black was all that they offered. You have to assemble the parts and torque to specs within 5 minutes on the original 1 minute black. If kept sealed I have kept the product for 2 years on the shelf. Also for those that do not know it. The Loctite bottles you have in your shop will get sticky after a while. This is normal because the bottles have very tiny holes in them to allow air in. The product sets in the absence of air so never put a sticky bottle of Loctite in a zip lock bag.
 

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I have to pour some gear oil into the rear axle with disc brakes I just completed. Wilderbry as just recommended a XADO product.

Any other suggestion?

What is the stock recommended type?
I use the XADO single stage revitalizant blister pack (small squeeze tube) for Manual Transmissions 1 tube in the tranny, 1 tube in the rear end. and XADO single stage revitalizant for engine oil. 1 tube in a 1.9L. I use the XADO repairing grease anytime I repack a bearing or for lubrication of parts going into rubber seals. It is a very small tube and your going to say it is a joke for the price when you see it, just as I did several years ago. However I had an ASTRO conversion van that I had been using this product on every-other oil change as suggested from my brother when I bought it. 3 years later Walmart failed to get the drain plug on correctly and the van ran completely out of oil. My 16 year old son drove it home 15 miles with NO OIL, I replaced the plug, filled the oil, and drove the van 4 more years until the water pump went out. THAT is when I became a believer and long time user of XADO products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I can vouch for the Locktite becoming sticky, I have a nice sticky tube of the blue stuff I’ve been using for years lol. Locktite for those who don’t know is an anaerobic thread locking compound meaning it has a chemical reaction with steel there’s where you get the instant bond. You can put a few drops on stainless steel or aluminum and it’ll stay wet all day and then some.

Wilderbry you ought to be getting a kickback from XADO, at least you’ve got me thinking if my spare 73’ doesn’t have any damage it’s well worth adding to it & my transmission. They’re both used parts with a fair amount of wear no doubt, I’m with you on that, for the minimum cost it certainly can’t hurt. I’ve seen additives save my customers a lot of money in my industry first hand. That coming from someone who’s very cynical in that area.

After reading the reply’s from you folks that have ample experience with various Opels I think I’ll now be keeping an eye out for a rear end out of an automatic, maybe from one of the rust laden condemned CIH’s I see on FB. If I start looking perhaps one will appear in So Cal or Arizona eventually.
 
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