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How do I disconnect the linkage from the carb? I don't even know if I am using the right words. It looks like a ball and socket joint that is attached to a threaded 11 mm nut. Do I just unbolt that socket?
Disconnect Weber accelerator
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I just went through the same. On the ball it looks like a raised bit of the ball. especially if it has a few years of grime on it. The other end wrops around the shaft of the linkage.
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Is this how it goes, I am just trying to prevent me from breaking anything.
I can't really see if you have the roll pin in your linkage, maybe because the yellow arrow is covering it. Anyway, I had Willit?'s old throttle linkage laying around, so I took a pic of the end that goes to the carb and ran a piece of safety wire through the locking pin holes so you can see where the pin should go. Also the groove at the base of the socket is where the pin is wrapped around to lock it in place. The 90 degree piece of flat stock should have a slot in it for the pin to operate the throttle arm. Based on what I have here, the throttle linkage will only go one way, and will only rotate one way, so if you manually rotate the linkage and the throttle plates open, you should be good to go. HTH.
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Clip .... trip!
The tiny wire clip that goes through the hole indicated in Ron's picture invariably takes a trip across the workshop when it is being removed by someone for the first time .........
The 'trick' is to just rotate the portion that clips over the shaft up away from the shaft (it clips into the groove between the ball and the right-angled rod which goes into the slot on the carb. Then withdraw it from the tiny hole.
DON'T undo the hex nut with the ball on it that goes inside the carb end of the rod - unless all else fails .........
Looks like the clip is missing on your linkage as I can see the tiny hole there with nothing sticking up out of it. Make sure the clip is not underneath the shaft though - some 'PO' could have inserted it from below :banghead:
The linkage should just come off the ball by pulling the rod back in the direction of your red arrow - once the clip is out. The other end just slides back through the grommet in the bracket on the firewall.
The tiny wire clip that goes through the hole indicated in Ron's picture invariably takes a trip across the workshop when it is being removed by someone for the first time .........
The 'trick' is to just rotate the portion that clips over the shaft up away from the shaft (it clips into the groove between the ball and the right-angled rod which goes into the slot on the carb. Then withdraw it from the tiny hole.
DON'T undo the hex nut with the ball on it that goes inside the carb end of the rod - unless all else fails .........
Looks like the clip is missing on your linkage as I can see the tiny hole there with nothing sticking up out of it. Make sure the clip is not underneath the shaft though - some 'PO' could have inserted it from below :banghead:
The linkage should just come off the ball by pulling the rod back in the direction of your red arrow - once the clip is out. The other end just slides back through the grommet in the bracket on the firewall.
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Thanks, I got it off. I looked on the bottom and there was no pin so I lifted up the carb and rotated it around and the joint just popped off. Now I got the intake off the engine but I can't get the exhaust off because the bolts that connect the pipes to the header are hidden away. I got the three that are reachable (two snapped ). Is there a trick? I was thinking about unbolting the pipe and then pulling them out with the header from the top.
Also, is the only difference between the stock header and the sprint the base that the intake sits on?
). Is there a trick? I was thinking about unbolting the pipe and then pulling them out with the header from the top. Also, is the only difference between the stock header and the sprint the base that the intake sits on?
Will someone please post pictures of the linkages and details on how each part is connected and where they are positioned. Again, my brother and I am putting together a 70 GT that the previous owner put in boxes so, I need pictures to show how they are suppost to be. Thanks!
Working from the carb to the pedal linkage.
Pics 1, 2 and 3 are right (passenger) side of engine, 4 and 5 are left (driver) side.
Pics 1, 2 and 3 are right (passenger) side of engine, 4 and 5 are left (driver) side.
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Thank You all for the information. I finally positioned the linkage in its proper position. It works much better that way.
Question: 1) Does any one have or know where can I get the rubber bushings the rods slide into so that the links are more precise??? 2) we have a weber carb. it appears the linkage will slide right in and work OK however, it is off a bit. Is it ok to loosen the "peg holder thingy" and move it around the center???
I will be posting pictures of a few metal braces and etc. that we do not know where they go tomorrow. Where should I post the pictures and thread?
Thank You, Joshua
Question: 1) Does any one have or know where can I get the rubber bushings the rods slide into so that the links are more precise??? 2) we have a weber carb. it appears the linkage will slide right in and work OK however, it is off a bit. Is it ok to loosen the "peg holder thingy" and move it around the center???
I will be posting pictures of a few metal braces and etc. that we do not know where they go tomorrow. Where should I post the pictures and thread?
Thank You, Joshua
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Opel GT source hass the gromets. You will have to adjust the throw of the linkage to get it to match and open the throtle fully. This can be done at the point where the accelerator pedel joins the frist part of the linkage under the hood.
Wolf Spyder is correct on adjusting the linkage to get the pin in the slot. Use the threaded rod, where it attaches to the throttle pedal linkage forward of the firewall on the driver's side. Before you do any adjusting on the linkage though, wait until you have the new bushings so you'll only have to adjust the linkage once. As to where to post your thread on braces and other stuff, because you don't know where they go, I would suggest putting it in the Opel GT forum. Once you get used to using the forum setup it should be easy to keep things in order.
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What Weber do you have? The DG series (eg DGAV, DGEV, DGAS: the correct ones for an Opel) has the primary throat (and linkage connection) outboard (same as the stock Solex, near the fender) so the linkage rod should line up straight on to the carb. No reason to "...adjust the peg holder thingy..." whatver THAT is
In fact, I don't think you CAN adjust it, if you mean the bracket behind the carb that attaches to the firewall and the last linkage rod rotates in. If you have a DF Weber (DFAV, DFM, "F" as in Ford), the primary throat is inboard, so the linkage will be a bit out of line, but more importantly, it has to rotate the OPPOSITE way of the Solex or DG Weber. That requires a modification of the linkage (reversal of the lever crank on the carb link and modification of the rotating pin). And it has the added concern that the primary throat is in a position that can exacerbate the natural tendency of the intake manifold to run cylinder #'s 2 & 3 lean, which in turn can cause the head to overheat and crack.
JM2CW
I do have the improper carb DFAV that rotates in the wrong direction. I purchased this carb from a follow member here on OpelGt.com trusting it would work well. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convert the linkage, if not damaging to the engine or carb, and or if the individual will not refund the money how should I list the part on ebay and for how much?
Thank You, Joshua
Thank You, Joshua
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By your description, I was afraid of that. In spite of the warnings I gave, a DFAV (properly jetted) can be a reasonable fit. I had a DFAV (from a Cortina GT) on my wife's old (late, as in deceased) Opel GT, and a DFM (the manual choke model) on my GT (for about 50,000 miles), and both worked very well. Well, at least ten times better than the Solex on either car. I have since acquired a DP 100 (the manual choke 38 DGAS) but the engine is in parts. And so is the car, but THAT'S another story.
It was years ago when I installed those DF carbs, but IIRC, there were two tricks I used. Look at the photo above that Otto posted. The first trick was to rotate the last link (that hooks onto the carb) so that the lever arm that the link along the firewall hooks to is ABOVE (versus below) so that changes the rotation. The spring-lever then is on the outboard side, but IIRC it still worked. I think I also had to adjust the length of the link of link along the firewall. Hmm, maybe I reversed that also to better clear stuff, but it's been twenty years!
The second trick was to change the rotating pin on the end of that link that connects to the carb. With the link over-rotated, the pin doesn't line up with the slotted L-bracket on the carb shaft. You have a couple of choices. I just drove the steel roll pin out and inserted a brass pin, and bent it to adjust. Worked, but not great. Or you could change the position of the L-bracket on the carb shaft (make a new bracket, with the flat in a different location). Or last you could cut off the lever that you have rotated to the "upper" position and re-weld it on so the pin lines up and the lever is as needed. But then the link is pretty much screwed for future use on a proper carb.
Or you could sell it on eBay (probably get $100 or more) and buy a proper DG Weber.
HTH and good luck
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. . . recommended solution!
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