Not me personally....:lmao:do you test these by sucking on the vacuum port?
. . . . . .I always plugged the vacuum retard port on the distributor, except when my GT required SMOG inspection. Plug the port with a vacuum cap, and you will be OK.
RallyBob's suggestion for 2.4 distributor setup. Weld breaker plate (or epoxy?), delete vacuum advance, and restrict distributor mechanical advance with a set-screw.I think that 1971-later distributors are easier to modify. They have 28-32 degrees of total mechanical timing. I usually delete the vacuum advance mechanism and lock the breaker plate. Then make the mechanical advance adjustable. 20 degrees of advance would work well for a 2.4. Set the timing at idle at 10 degrees, and you'll have 30 degrees total. I also use two of the 'light' tension springs for the mechanical advance.
Welded breaker plate:
Vacuum advance deleted:
Adjustable mechanical advance. Note the 4 mm set-screw which restricts how far the weights extend.
If you know the year of the distributor, you can look up the factory advance. The '71-'74's all had 28-32 degrees of mechanical advance (varies due to manufacturing tolerances). Averages 30 degrees though.Awesome post.
How do you know how much advance you restricted with set screw?
Only when its running and do timing test? And adjust set screw +/-?
There's no hard and fast rule because of variations from car to car. Got a stock 2.2 with EFI? Set it to factory specs with a factory 2.2 dizzy. Done.What is the timing for a 2.2 motor? There seems to be confusion as to what is needed on the larger motors...various threads I've read have it anywhere from 28-35* total, and from that it provides a lot of room for error on the distributor side. I am trying to learn and figure this stuff out with more clarity, but to be honest, I don't feel that I'm capable of making the changes to a distributor. However, depending on initial and total advance numbers, specifically to the 2.2, I could better figure out what distributor would pair well with a 2.2. I feel lost and am not sure what is the beat way to correctly time the motor. Especially since timing marks/flywheel ball don't seem to be present or equate to anything, as Keith attested to when he worked in my car last fall.
This isn't true, disconnect your vacuum advance and run your engine at 3000 RPMs and see what your advance is, then hook up the vacuum and it will increase. Now vacuum advance usually doesn't activate until the carb sees about 950-1000rpms....but your statement makes it sound like vacuum advance is not advancing after a certain rpm. The vacuum advance doesn't shut off after 3000 RPMs that I am aware of. Also around 3200 RPMs or less you should have full advance, the springs will control this as a lighter spring with open the weights up earlier. Now I understand that vacuum decreases when at wot but it doesn't take much vacuum to keep that pot open...it's hard for me to believe that it isn't pulling vacuum advance cruising at 3000 rpmsHERE ARE SOME MORE GAS CAPS FOR U
a vacuum advance will affect timing until around 2500-3000 rpm's then it is mech only.
Hmmm, I can't recall exactly, but usually by 3600-3800 rpms it's all in.Hi Bob, sounds like a good set up especially with a side draft Weber (having no vacuum advance port) it would be interesting to bang it on a dyno after a run while the engine is hot and see how much advance works best. Then set it 2 deg less for safety. Do you know what RPM it hits max advance? Like I said sounds like a good setup and Gordon is lucky to have it.