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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wonder if anyone could help with why when the window winds up it moves out of its 'B" post runner and falls at the "A" post end so when it gets to the top I need to manhandle it to get it to fit into the rubbers. Pictures Attached

Also does anyone know what the plastic lugs (behind the door card) in the door are called and what size/ where do I source them from? (the lugs are the ones that the metal clips of the door card secure into). I could also do with some of the metal clips also. Size and source / name would also be helpful. Photos attached.

Thanks

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. Do you mean the rubbers that continue into the door as I have silicone sprayed them?
 

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The window guides may be defective, but it sounds more like the window has become unhinged at the bottom. Can't tell unless you can get a camera in there.

As for the door cards, the clips are called just that -- trim clips -- and the plastic inserts are grommets or plugs. Parts 1041 and 1045 at Opel GT Source. I see they are out of stock -- they were out of stock some time ago, several years ago actually, when I did the interior of my GT and found that the items from my Triumph Spitfire are interchangeable -- and available/ Scroll down and you will see them
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The window guides may be defective, but it sounds more like the window has become unhinged at the bottom. Can't tell unless you can get a camera in there.

As for the door cards, the clips are called just that -- trim clips -- and the plastic inserts are grommets or plugs. Parts 1041 and 1045 at Opel GT Source. I see they are out of stock -- they were out of stock some time ago, several years ago actually, when I did the interior of my GT and found that the items from my Triumph Spitfire are interchangeable -- and available/ Scroll down and you will see them
Thanks found the clips and will have a better look at the window tomorrow although it didn't feel like its was out of its runners. All the best. Gary
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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The windows can be very difficult and frustrating. The next bit of information is from Killer Texas GT September 3, 2007. I had the same issue with the window falling forward - one issue not mentioned - When I placed the lifting unit, as you have pictured, that is the unit that holds the glass, it was warped. Also after making all of the adjustments mentioned I found the 7th adjustment - a flat head screw driver wedged under the lifting unit to align the window to stay in the proper position for the window to roll up straight. When the next owner finds it they will say, WTF, but it works. You just never know what happened prior to your ownership so never forget that things may not work correctly because something other than adjustments is the cause of the problem. I will try and find my posts on this and those of others that helped me and forward those on. Good luck....see points of adjustment below.


There are 5 points of adjustment for the GT window. You can make that 5 but avoid the 6th one if you can.
1. The top black rail angle support must be in place with all of its screws and locking convex washers. The top black rail is adjustable due to the 1/4" holes which allows it to be slid for and aft and up or down.
2. There are two slotted holes in the top black rail which the window guide attaches to with two bolts, this allows the guide to be adjusted inboard or out board. Also there is a little adjustment for and aft.
3. At the bottom of the door again two slotted holes which the window guide attaches to with two bolts, this allows the guide to be adjusted inboard and outboard. also there is a little adjustment for and aft.
4. The window channel also has an adjustment but only for the front portion channel by two bolts located on the bottom of the door towards the front again adjustment is inboard and outboard with some adjustment for and aft.
5. The window itself is adjustable in its cradle on the guide itself. Normally you would not have to adjust this unless you have installed a new window or you have removed it and are reinstalling it.
6. The last adjustment is the top portion or the door itself. Here you either pull out or in on the window channel, or twist it. This adjustment is usually preformed after installing and adjusting the door to align with the body an the top of the door has a gap or is hitting the body or the reveal is not equal. This also plays in the adjustment of the window and therefore should be the last resort for adjustment.

The window regulator has its adjustments to tighten the cable.
1. The upper and lower pulleys can move up or down to gain tension on the cable.
2. The regulator itself can be rolled within its mounting holes to loosen or tighten tension on the cable.

It is all about being patient and be willing to spend up to 4hrs per window for adjustments.
A door may take several days to get it just right as there are so many ways to tweak the hinges and latches to get flushess equal margins and easy and smooth functioning of a door. The widow is easy compared to the door.

Good luck
 

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Also, I had a problem with the fact that the regulator cables on the driver's side had been modified and the cable was too short. But the bent/warped lifter unit was also something I did not see until I looked really closely and it was way off, totally unanticipated I mean why would that piece be warped..... As mentioned, you just never know what happened to your Opel prior to your ownership - I have owned mine all but the original two years and you would not believe what the PO did over that very short period of time. Scary.
Also Velcro works well to held the door panels in place....
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Yeah, all that stuff.

The white nylon guides in the window lifter are probably shot and rubber in the window channels has probably developed excessive play. I suggest getting the guides and the channel rubber. I found the new white nylon guides to sometimes be too tight and bound on the well lubed slider bar. I "widened" them with a hack saw. They're a PIA to install.

This whole window thing is a big overall job, but it badly needs doing. I swear to Gawd, GT's have the crappiest working windows of any cars I've ever experienced. They sucked as far back as the late 70's, when I got my first GT's. The push button door locks also suck big time, the keys either won't go in or they won't turn. Problems with them back to the 70's also. The crappiest I've ever experienced.

You'll have to do battle with the cable on the window crank spool and getting both ends of the cable wound in the correct directions. Once you have it all together, take the slack out of the cable by moving your slider rail pulleys. Another good tip is to loosen all 3 adjustment points: At the top and bottom of the slider rail and at the bottom of the front window track. The window track ones are usually pushed all the way in towards the car, loosen the bolts and bump it out a little and make sure all three of these points are loose as you work the window up and down and tighten them a little at a time seeking the smoothest movement of the glass.

Or you can say: "Screw this!" and install electric windows for $100:


 

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My passenger side window regulator/cranking mechanism was not doing its job very well so I decided to replace it. I had worked on the window back in the 90's and again about a year ago as the window was hard to roll up. So a replacement seemed the way to go as the regulator was in fact broken and making a lot of unfriendly noise when rolling the window up. So while I have this all apart I think, why not go ahead and replace the plastic glides so I did that as well. However I could not put the unit back together, that is, the slide would not fit into the last two glides. The first two no problem but the next two the slide was way off not even close to going into the glides. Upon closer inspection it turns out that the slide was visibly warped/bent and I believe that is the reason that the crank failed, too much force to crank the window up. I further believe that this was a manufacturing defect that came with the car, keep in mind I have owned the car for 48 of its 50 years so I know it well. I received a new fully functioning slide today, well new to me, and the difference is night and day - so there is no question that this is a warranty issue. Not sure who to take it up with, Buick, the dealership, Opel directly or the new owners of Opel.
See the picture below where you really can see the fitment issue, would not have been so obvious if I had not removed the rivets and removed the bottom of the unit. Glad I decided to install those slides as I may have never know - Another give away was one of the slides was broken - Gil said he had never seen one break just become worn and he said it is unusual for a passenger unit to fail, not as much use as the drivers side - so I think it broke early on as the cable was broken as well and crimped on one end on the inside of the crank either by the PO or the PO's agent. Just thought I would add that to the archives as someone else may have a similar issue.
The picture below is pretty clear and just by taking the bottom off the slide unit you could see the way it was warped.
Side note - rubber bands work well at holding the cables in place during the installation, of the crank, process.
Special thanks to Gordon for selling me the replacement crank and to Gil Wesson and OGTS for finding a good condition replacement slide to complete the project.
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Found my old thread:
My passenger side window regulator/cranking mechanism was not doing its job very well so I decided to replace it. I had worked on the window back in the 90's and again about a year ago as the window was hard to roll up. So a replacement seemed the way to go as the regulator was in fact broken and making a lot of unfriendly noise when rolling the window up. So while I have this all apart I think, why not go ahead and replace the plastic glides so I did that as well. However I could not put the unit back together, that is, the slide would not fit into the last two glides. The first two no problem but the next two the slide was way off not even close to going into the glides. Upon closer inspection it turns out that the slide was visibly warped/bent and I believe that is the reason that the crank failed, too much force to crank the window up. I further believe that this was a manufacturing defect that came with the car, keep in mind I have owned the car for 48 of its 50 years so I know it well. I received a new fully functioning slide today, well new to me, and the difference is night and day - so there is no question that this is a warranty issue. Not sure who to take it up with, Buick, the dealership, Opel directly or the new owners of Opel.
See the picture below where you really can see the fitment issue, would not have been so obvious if I had not removed the rivets and removed the bottom of the unit. Glad I decided to install those slides as I may have never know - Another give away was one of the slides was broken - Gil said he had never seen one break just become worn and he said it is unusual for a passenger unit to fail, not as much use as the drivers side - so I think it broke early on as the cable was broken as well and crimped on one end on the inside of the crank either by the PO or the PO's agent. Just thought I would add that to the archives as someone else may have a similar issue.
The picture below is pretty clear and just by taking the bottom off the slide unit you could see the way it was warped.
Side note - rubber bands work well at holding the cables in place during the installation, of the crank, process.
Special thanks to Gordon for selling me the replacement crank and to Gil Wesson and OGTS for finding a good condition replacement slide to complete the project.
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The windows can be very difficult and frustrating. The next bit of information is from Killer Texas GT September 3, 2007. I had the same issue with the window falling forward - one issue not mentioned - When I placed the lifting unit, as you have pictured, that is the unit that holds the glass, it was warped. Also after making all of the adjustments mentioned I found the 7th adjustment - a flat head screw driver wedged under the lifting unit to align the window to stay in the proper position for the window to roll up straight. When the next owner finds it they will say, WTF, but it works. You just never know what happened prior to your ownership so never forget that things may not work correctly because something other than adjustments is the cause of the problem. I will try and find my posts on this and those of others that helped me and forward those on. Good luck....see points of adjustment below.


There are 5 points of adjustment for the GT window. You can make that 5 but avoid the 6th one if you can.
1. The top black rail angle support must be in place with all of its screws and locking convex washers. The top black rail is adjustable due to the 1/4" holes which allows it to be slid for and aft and up or down.
2. There are two slotted holes in the top black rail which the window guide attaches to with two bolts, this allows the guide to be adjusted inboard or out board. Also there is a little adjustment for and aft.
3. At the bottom of the door again two slotted holes which the window guide attaches to with two bolts, this allows the guide to be adjusted inboard and outboard. also there is a little adjustment for and aft.
4. The window channel also has an adjustment but only for the front portion channel by two bolts located on the bottom of the door towards the front again adjustment is inboard and outboard with some adjustment for and aft.
5. The window itself is adjustable in its cradle on the guide itself. Normally you would not have to adjust this unless you have installed a new window or you have removed it and are reinstalling it.
6. The last adjustment is the top portion or the door itself. Here you either pull out or in on the window channel, or twist it. This adjustment is usually preformed after installing and adjusting the door to align with the body an the top of the door has a gap or is hitting the body or the reveal is not equal. This also plays in the adjustment of the window and therefore should be the last resort for adjustment.

The window regulator has its adjustments to tighten the cable.
1. The upper and lower pulleys can move up or down to gain tension on the cable.
2. The regulator itself can be rolled within its mounting holes to loosen or tighten tension on the cable.

It is all about being patient and be willing to spend up to 4hrs per window for adjustments.
A door may take several days to get it just right as there are so many ways to tweak the hinges and latches to get flushess equal margins and easy and smooth functioning of a door. The widow is easy compared to the door.

Good luck
By the way, I thought I had included the source of the information beginning with, " There are 5 points of adjustments and ending with, The window is easy compared to the door." I just copied and pasted that from another post. I did not intend to knowingly plagiarize. The author of those comments was Killer Texas GT from a post dated Sept. 3, 2007 Thanks, Carl
 

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Very informative video Gordon. What year(s), Honda civic motor was used?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So after lubricating the rubbers and runners the drivers window is running a lot better. Thanks. I have identified the cause of the dropping when the window get to the top of the door. When the window is wound all the way down the front portion nearest the a post falls down a few centimetres. So when would all the way up to the top its out of the b post Chanel by a few centimetres and if I continue winding it sticks at the top due to the few centimetres its fallen when it was at the bottom of its travel but it will go back into the Chanel with a modicum of force. I wonder if its possible to address the falling when the window gets to the bottom

Thanks

Gary
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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The window can't fall out of the channel if the slider guides are in servicable condition and the window tracks aren't somehow bent, loose, or out of position, and the window track rubber is intact. More than likely your white nylon slider guides are worn.

There's a design flaw in the GT windows, in that, the pulley at the top of the slider bar is offset too far forward. As the window approaches the top, the cable starts pulling sideways at the window lifter, instead of straight up. This causes the force needed to close the window that last 1"-2" to ramp up almost exponentially. This causes many people to strip their window cranks trying to fully close the window. The pulley being offset and pulling sideways at the window lifter can cause the window to skew and this sideways pulling force can wear the white guides. If you're clever and skilled you could move the pulley, but the non-modification-minded folks here would tell you to replace the white nylon guides and probably the window channel rubber first.
 

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Which is exactly what we recommended in your original post about your window issue.
Lubrication and such may make them work a little better BUT unfortunately does not fix your issue, It only buys you some time
 
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