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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi gang!!

got a question have a window that is very hard to roll up looks like slack in the cable what is the best way to fix this, got this car with the door panel off and the window was down, the top rail that the window slides on is not screwed down does it need to be . thanks.....jman
 

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Super Moderator
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You can do what Otto Bartsch did by getting a tiny pulley and mount it just down from the bottom to take up the slack. But, what has happened is one loop of the cable has probably come off the spool at the crank mechanism. If you have a factory service manual, it shows how to rewind the cable back on the spool. Unfortunatly you have to remove the whole assembly out of the car to do it properly.
 

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Just thought of another solution. You can see where the cable is anchored to the glass part of the assembly with a small plate and 2 bolts. You could cut the cable under this clamp and pull each end up or down (you'll see what I'm talking about) till you get the slack out.
 

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Code Goober
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This may be actually an easy fix. You said that the top rail is not screwed down. If you are refering to the piece of angle iron looking thing that screws down at the base of the glass? Screw this piece down to the door (there should be holes already), the pulley system uses this as a lever (anchor point) for rolling up the window. It is very hard to get the window to roll up without it attached. If this solves the problem, I would also reccomend using a bit of lock-tite on the screws so they don't remove themselves again. Good luck.

David
 

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If you're talking about the black rail that rides on the door just under the window, that does need to be screwed down and adjusted. I've found it has a lot to do with how hard you have to crank, since it seems to help keep the glass aligned in the track. I've never figured out a simple way to align it, tho. Just kind of hit or miss. Position it, tighten it, test the winder, fiddle some more until it's where you want it.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Check the condition of the pulleys. I had a similiar problem and found one side of the front pulley had worn completely away.
 

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Opeler
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Door Window

For what it is worth, I saw an item in the OGTS catalog under Services that lists a driver's side window rebuild for $40. I am not sure exactly what is done , but I have been considering it since mine on the FrankenOpel is loose in the channels/guide and won't roll up properly. ANY tips on this will be gratefully appreciated. reroling the cable is a certified pain but can be done with time and patience. I believe the pulley mentioned earlier is a great idea and I am going to install one with a stiff spring to allow for eccentric pulley/takeup play.

Bill & the FrankenOpel
I need a fix; gimme parts.
 

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Opeler
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Check the condition of the pulleys. I had a similiar problem and found one side of the front pulley had worn completely away.
My driver's window failed again. Top pulley was chewed up and had been cobbled a bit, it's mounting bracket was tweaked and part of the pulley gone. Got a near miss pulley at hardware store (patio door replacement parts).
Still have serious issues with the window getting off kilter at the top, leans "foward". I have the same issue with passenger side. Is it the slider bar alignment?
 

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If the glass tilts forward towards the front of the car when you roll the window up, look to the following (listed in order of importance):
  • Replace the felt guides that go from the bottom of the door to the top.
  • Adjust & tighten up the top sheetmetal do-hickey* strip - it will help stabilize the regulator.

* Highly technical term
 

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Opeler
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[*]Adjust & tighten up the top sheetmetal do-hickey* strip - it will help stabilize the regulator.
[/LIST]

* Highly technical term
This pretty much cleared it up. Much tinkering required. I had the cables nice and snug then tried to reinstall said "do-hickey strip", cables were too snug to realign properly. In the end, loosened cables for a bit of slack, snugged up the do-hickey strip (pulling it toward rear of car via hand through access hole in door) retightened cables. Much better but window had a gap at top near front, had to settle for slider bar being a bit off (allow a bit of lean but not enough to make cranking hard) in order to get window to seat right at top.

Here's pics of the new pulley and such.

I think I'm good for now.

I am fast becoming rather proficient at certain Opel tasks, dash cluster removal and door tear down can be down rather quickly.:p

PS M5 bolt for cable clamp (I broke one so I know) M5 10 .80 pitch
for pulley attachment, M5 again, don't recall length, there is some slop in it as hole in new pulley is larger then old, but tightened up, doesn't matter, that's a bearing in the middle
 

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Opeler
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lower cable tension

After attempting to get the passenger side go up evenly, giving up and putting everything back together, I think I now know another potential reason why they go up crooked; too much slack in the lower cable. I think it may need a fair amount of even tension pulling down as the top cable pulls up just to keep the window square. I'm going to try adding the extra pulley in the passenger side to take out some slack there since I don't really feel like restringing the cable on that side. I'll try that and report back some time. I did notice that it can be tight when window is down then as you crank up some slack appears in the lower cable (right about the time it starts to tilt), hopefully if I set it to be tight at the loosest point, it won't be too tight at the tightest point. Maybe an added pulley under tension via a spring mount or something would be good? Yes, in hindsight I was probably not getting the lower cable tight enough at all points and trying to compensate with slider bar mounts adjusment.

PS "taking up slack" was mentioned early on as a fix to "stiff windows" I think "really tightening them up" should be a goal? I'll report back if it helps, could still be the nylon guides too I guess
 

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Opeler
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Ah, the fun with windows.
My driver's side failed again (cable pulled out of the clamp) I redid AGAIN, new bolts on clamp and it better hold 'em this time! Works pretty well, slightly off kilter again right at the last 1/4" but no big deal.
Passenger side:
I used the other new pulley of the two I bought (bought to replace top pulley on driver's side) as a third pulley in passenger door to take up slack.
mounted along bottom of middle "pillar" in door frame, the part between the access holes. Used wood block as spacer to set the pulley deep enough to match the cable's running line.
Got all the slack out this way, wasn't too hard to do, much better then cutting old cable out, drilling, refitting ,rewinding and reinstalling and swearing a lot.
But.....it didn't help the "off kilter' issue at all.:no:
The nut that holds this on can interfere with the door panel so keep it very short, that or put the head side of the bolt on interior side of the door and the nut inside the door cavity. or maybe use a lag screw to bolt the pulley to the block, then just shoot some screws through the door metal into the hood, screw heads wouldn't stick out at all. Block was about 3/4" thick, just a hunk of something (old cutting board) laying around.
 

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I've got to advise the same as last time; if the window raises "kilter", especially if it tilts forward, look to worn guides.

You'll need to order item 2005 "Door Window Track" from Opel GT Source. In exchange for $115.20 cash, check, or credit card against which they can charge, they'll send you enough material to do both door windows.

It's a pain in the ass job to perform. But you'll be pleased with the following results:
  • Windows will roll up without having to take both hands off the steering wheel.
  • Windows will seal.
  • The doors will sound solid when you shut them (no more rattling around).
 

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Opeler
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Just an update here. Driver's side is perfect now. It's critical that the upper "angle iron" support (that has several small screws into the door itself and two bolts through the top into the window track) is lined up right. I'm hoping that if I go into the passenger side AGAIN and fiddle with this I'll get it to work as well also. Trial and error to find the "sweet spot".
 

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It's critical that the upper "angle iron" support (that has several small screws into the door itself and two bolts through the top into the window track) is lined up right.
That would be the "top sheetmetal do-hickey strip" wouldn't it?
 

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Opeler
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Based on your post, I guess you have answers to two problems I'm facing. First, did you have to get the "special tool J7797" to get your window crank off? If so, where did you get one? If not, How did you get it off?
Second, the manual says "Pry off door release handle escutcheon". I have tried this to the point of almost permanently bending it with no success. Any trick to getting the thing off?
Thanks,
Mcsail
 

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gogtgo
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pry door handle?

the manual is talking about the plastic insert in the door handle echelon. pry that out and there is a screw behind it. as for the windows. the passenger and driveers side do have slightly different cable lengths and would really cause a problem in slack. as for the window crank removel a skinny screw driver slightly bent works but still difficult to remove the clip.
 

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Many of the parts stores such as Autozone, Checker, Advance, etc, have a "Help" display rack. You can usually find a tool made just for removing the "C" clip from behind the window crank... it should be $10 or less...
 

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Need Help With passenger side window Winding on spool

You can do what Otto Bartsch did by getting a tiny pulley and mount it just down from the bottom to take up the slack. But, what has happened is one loop of the cable has probably come off the spool at the crank mechanism. If you have a factory service manual, it shows how to rewind the cable back on the spool. Unfortunatly you have to remove the whole assembly out of the car to do it properly.
I have a factory Service manual all it says is to "wind cable clockwise and lock in place " spent 4 hrs trying to get that dang window crank cable to Fit and wind properly it is either 2 short or 2 long and i realy dont have that good a clue how to properly wind it. I think it should be wound a equal amount in eacs direction but as i said when i try it this way it is to short or to long depending on # of wraps, not to metion it is a pain to keep from unwraping.


Please any help , advise much needed.
:ugh::ugh:
 
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