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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those interested in a howgozit of my V-6/T-5 swap, while waiting on the exhaust system to be fabricated, I decided to go on with the next Phase, integrating the engine electrical into the Opel wiring system. Here are the first two pics of what needs to be done. During this integration, I'm building a new electrical panel, similar to the engine test panel I made to run the engine on the stand. The new panel will have a bank of relays that will be fed by aircraft style circuit breakers. No more fuses to burn out or replace. Here's pic 1, the Opel harness laid out on the driveway.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's pic 2, the schematics: DESTEC schematic of the Opel GT; pages 1 through 3 of the Haynes manual of the engine computer control schematic; and the Clymers schematic of the 95 Camaro/Firebird instrument panel. I've got to make all 5 schematics into 1 electrical system.

Ron
 

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As I have in fact been an electronic tech (civi world) for 25yrs and a Air Force AirFrame Structural Mech (Guards) for 22yrs, I think I can professionally address the those pictures:

AGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
:D


Barry
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you so much for those inspiring words, Barry. Let's see, 23 years USAF, Crew Chief on F-101B/F, F/TF-102A, SR-71A/B/C, F4-C/D/E/F/G, T/AT-38A and 22 years Civil Service working on aircraft fuel delivery systems and F-14A. I think I can parrot those remarks. Actually, it won't be that bad, my biggest concern is to replace the power panel and integrate everything at the panel with circuit breakers and relays for the main power sources. I've got to have battery power hot all the time for one branch, starting circuit with "Otto Start" that includes bulb test branch, and an accessory/run circuit. I'll have relays operating the fuel pump, electric fan, AC, starting circuit, the engine run circuit, and a few other items that may need relays. The plan is to have minimal power going through the ignition switch because of the problems folks have had with it. It should be fun sorting it all out. I'm glad I've got the schematics to work with, it would be a real PIA to try this without them.

Ron
 

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doner fuse box

I know you're planning on circuit breakers, but you might want to take a look around for an early 80's Audi 5000 fuse box. They have provisions for all the relays you will need, 25+ fuse slots, a waterproof cover, and 1/4" spade terminals on the back of the panel for almost every hook-up. They also use the same #ing code as the Opel, so most of the wires are pretty easy to hook right up.

I used one on my 1940 American Lafrance Pumper/ car hauler, another on my sandrail, and have another in the garage for the Kadett. I think they work better than the Painless stuff.

This from only 8 years chasing wires onboard various Navy nuclear power plants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Stephen, I appreciate the suggestion and won't disagree with you about the relays, etc. The thing is, I've already got the relays, "Bosch type" and the circuit breakers and the box to put it all in, I hope. My plan is to use the Opel panel connectors, I've already laid out the slots and started cutting them out, and integrate the CBs and relays where needed for the engine and accessories along with replacing all the fuses with CBs. Also I plan to have the relays around the periphery of the box, along side the headlight and dimmer relays, seat buzzer and ignition buzzer. I don't know how many relays I'll need, I got 10 of them, 4 40 amp and 6 30 amp along with the plugs and pigtails. The plan is for the CBs to have a buss bar on the field side and the other terminal going to the individual relays or circuits. I may have to cut the spade lugs off the back side of the connectors and solder on terminal ends to screw onto the CBs. All in all an ambitious project, but I needed to either get another fuse panel or build a new system. Because I already had a coffee can full of CBs, the choice was easy. And even a replacement fuse panel will be brittle as mine is and probably crack if I put too much stress on it moving wires around inside. I'll keep a documentary and pics as I progress and when I'm done maybe Gary can put it in with my other Phases. I just wish the exhaust was done so I could start the engine in the car. Then I can rip everything out, do a thorough clean, prep it for POR-15, then paint the whole car with it. I hate this piecemeal approach I have to take right now. I've got to wait on the exhaust to close up the holes in the footwell and wiper well, to finish Phase III, pull the drivetrain, and rebuild the front end, pull the rear end again to clean and paint the underside, strip the interior and do it too. My Significant Other doesn't like the original yellow color. She saw a silver GT at the OMC picnic and liked the color. So she kinda brow-beat me into changing the color. That being the case, the whole car, over, under, inside, and out will be silver.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Phase IV Update

For those interested, here's an update on the electrical integration for the 3.4/T-5 swap. I got the new power panel kinda finished, in that I've replaced the original fuse panel and box with a new one and installed circuit breakers where there used to be fuses. A minor problem lifted its' head, there is no room for a second row of circuit breakers in the new box, so I'll add a smaller box for the second row and the needed relays. Also I'm going to have to cut and splice a lot of wires in the main harnesses that ended up being too short because of the routing needed to replace the fuse panel and add another box. Just something else to keep me out of the bars and brothels. Anyway here's a pic of what's done so far.

Ron
 

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You know that there are places out there that you give both wiring harnesses to and they splice them. I had contacted one company and they said they can take the 3.4 GM harnass and splice it into the Opel harness, and even include extra relays for fans, fuel pump, elect doors/windows. They even include the VAT bypass and the elect to mech speedo converter. Plug and play!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cool, I would like to know the company name so I can contact them about converitng the electrical speedo inputs to my mechanical speedo, and if they have a circuit to convert the tach also. As I indicated in above replies, I've got the circuit breakers, my fuse panel was cracked, so I decided to go with a new system. It will eventually be all tied up and out of the way. I found some burnt insulation on one of the harnesses, so I'll be replacing that wire along with the cutting and splicing that needs to be done. I'll probably replace all the gray sleeving with the convulated split black plastic to match the engine wiring and make it all look good, I hope.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Phase IV update

After a week of playing around with how to mount the circuit breakers, relays and other wires, I finally came up with a solution, maybe. Here's a pic of what I think will work, got the connectors in, the CBs, stacked terminal strips, and a bank of relays all mounted along with the relay ground junction. Next step is to start hooking up the harness to the connectors. :rolleyes:

Ron
 

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Ron,

You mentioned that you were looking for a older post on how to convert the stock Opel 4-cylinder tach to read correctly with a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. You can read the article here:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/classicopels/files/ Technical Information/

and look for "Tach.doc"

on the classicopels site. I would make it "down-loadable" (and avoid all the nonsense we have of posting a link to the yahoo! site that changes a month later) but the Word document is 383 kb in size, and the download limit is 307 kb. I'll try to add it to the download section, and add a link.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Keith, if that's the work done by P. J. Hall, I've been in contact with him and he is sending me a board, schematics and a parts list to make up a new board for my tach to run with the V-6 mod. I should be getting it any day now. But I'll check out the link when I finish here on this site. Thanks for the info. All I've got to do on my electrical is wire in the relays and stuff all that mess in to the box, than rewrap the whole harness. Plus change a few wires that I noticed got hot and melted some of the insulation. But it's still fun working on these different projects within a project.

Ron

I just checked the link, Keith, and it is P. J. Halls, documents. Thanks again for the info.

Ron
 

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This is the place for the "Plug and Play" wiring... They charge $195 for the base conversion and it goes up from there. $10 for fan switch, $10 for AC, Tach dividers $35, O2 sensors $45 and the biggie... $290 for the mech-elect speedo conveter.

They sell them on their website or on Ebay at a slight discount.

www.dynatechmotorsports.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow, I think I'll truck on with my original plan. Here's the breakdown on cost just for this so for. Two project boxes $15, 10 relays $15, assorted terminal ends $7.50, circuit breakers free, new tach board free, wire of various gages free, I had a lot of spools in the garage, harness wrap $49, I got it in bulk lengths from 1 1/2" to 3/8" from 1 to 20 feet. And one thing I like is I'm using the original wire color coding. It's just taking a fair amount of time cutting off the female spade lugs and soldering on the eye terminal ends for the CBs and using shrink sleeve on them. But then I'm retarded USAF/Civil Service and have nothing but time :rolleyes:

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's getting closer, I've got the whole car wired in to the circuit breaker panel and the relays all set to go. All I've got to do now is put the panel back in the car with the harnesses and wire in the dozen or so engine harness wires. It will be a while though, I've got to paint the interior of the car before I start putting everything back together. But, here's a pic of how it is right now. Everything is on hold now for the exhaust to get done so I can drop the engine/tranny and paint the underside and engine bay, then it all goes back together and we'll see how much "Magic Smoke" I'll have. As you can see, Tigger, one of our Norwegian Elkhounds was really interested in what I was doing.:D

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Electrical Engineer, not me. I just happen to be able to read electrical schematics. Any one contemplating modifying their car should be able to do that. Even if it's something as simple as adding a different radio or speakers. You have to know where the sparks come from and where they go and how they get there. If you don't know, you'll see lots of "Magic Smoke". :D

Ron
 
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