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Engine mount bar

2054 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  CAPTHOOKS
As a part of my effort to change the rings, I've torn down most of the engine. I'm at the point where I must remove the engine bracket under the engine (upper support made) to remove the oil pan. I've been able to remove the four (4) inner bolts, however the two outer bolts have torn away from the bar due to excessive rust.

Any ideas on how to get them off the bar short of using a blow torch to cut them off?

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why dont you just borrow a cherry picker if you dont have one and use a engine stand to rebuild your motor? its alot easier doing this then trying to do it in the car if thats what your trying to do. books say it can't be pulled from the top of the car and that you have to drop the trans and motor from the bottom but thats a lie. i've pulled mine from the top both times, one time the tranny was out and the last time the transmission is still in it. this way you dont have to tear that bar out that the motor mounts to. you just pop off all your accessories (carb, starter, alternator, distributor, ect) and pull the water pump and manifolds then slide the motor forward to get the input shaft out of the clutch and turn the motors sideways as you lift it out. thast worked the best for me. good luck with your rebuild as i will be there in about a week or two.

So, can you explain the problem again? I gather you want to drop the engine cross member to get access to the oil pan, but the two outer bolts are "torn away". What exactly does that mean? Are the bolts still there, but the heads are rounded? Or are the nuts that are welded into the body torn out and are just turning with the bolt? If so, that is a BAD thing, as it indicates that the mounting for the cross member is rusted away, and there is a lot less metal holding the engine to the body. As a suggestion, those nuts are in behind the inner fender, just behind the wheel, so one way to get at them (and to fix them properly) is to cut a hole in the inner fender and grab them with a vice grip. Then you can properly repair the mounting locations and the hole in the inner fender with new sheet metal. But you will have to do a "proper" job, with a MIG welder and such. Do you have access to a MIG?

By the way, there are 4 bolts per side that hold the engine cross member to the chassis. Two outer bolts that bolt up into captive nuts inside the inner fender and one slightly inboard that bolts to a captive nut into the frame rail. This is where most of the strength is, but the outer bolts also tie the body together. And the fourth bolt is up along side the engine in the horizontal plane.

And if you want MY opinion, if you are going to rebuild the engine to the extent you are talking about, drop it out and do it right. It is WAY easier and you will do a better job. And, with due respect to Jared, it is SO much easier to drop the engine than to pull it. This has been debated as nauseum on this and the classicopels list, but I have dropped my engine at least six times, and I just dropped Kat's engine a few months ago to change her clutch and transmission, as well as to repair various seals and gaskets. The whole process (including building a set of tall jack-stands, since mine were busy under my car!) took four hours to drop it, and about and two hours to lift it back up.

Here are some pictures that explain the mounts for the engine cross member.



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And here are some shots of the frame mounting spots. You can see that I had to repair my inner fender, but the rust wasn't so bad as to cause the cross member nuts to tear out. Oh, and you can see the mounts for my Addco front sway bar just ahead of the engine cross member bolt on the frame rail.


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Thanks for the info. When I turned the outer bolts to take them out, the bolt and nut were so rusted together that they broke away from the body, however, they are fused as one and move freely still attached to the mounting frame. On both sides, the metal is rusted away from the running boards and there is about a 3" gap between the running boards and the engine bracket. I seriously pondered the top out approach, but believe that since I've started from the bottom, and with seeing the resto that has to be done to the engine mount, that I'll continue on with the bottom out approach.

After examining the problem closer, I see that I can probably get the bracket off the car, then once off, cut the useless bolts off the bracket. The next step will be to weld in new metal for the outer bolt mounts.

I don't have a mig welder, and don't have a cutting torch, but both items will have to be sought out.

It's amazing that just to get the oil pan off, so much other stuff has to be done. Had I not encountered this problem I could have had the new rings by now!

Keep the advice coming. Oh Keith, thanks for the pictures I didn't know there was a fourth mounting point!
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ya i agree that since there is rust damage down there that it should be fixed and removed anyway, so might as well drop it. it is a vital area of a uni-body and should not be left alone. and for keith and dropping motors i cant really say which is easier because i have never dropped one. i wasnt sure if the front suspension had to come out or not and i didnt feel like finding out. i know its only 4 bolts, steering knuckle, 2 brake lines, and pop the shocks out of the towers but its just the way i've done it on all cars. and i couldnt quite figure out how to lift the car without damaging anything. and i just like proving my manual wrong also, it says its impossable to remove the motor from the top! its harder that most because the water pump has to be taken out and all accessories stripped off including motor mounts! i also left the manifolds in the cars so that dont help does it fellas? sorry got chatty again that always happens. i'm out, good luck graham
Best way to fix the frame?

I have encountered the same promblem.My question is what is the best way to repair the frame?And if the inner frame rail that runs inside the rocker panel is rusted away should i weld in some stiffer metal or will the outer rocker panel be enough support.I have planned on welding a inside piece to help strenghing the floorboards then cover the outside with Skirt flares.
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