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Opel Rallier since 1977
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So what did you do to improve the system?
No improvements except for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator... put it to stock with known new and or good parts. Wanted to try it that way. Checked and measured every piece, replaced a bad temp coolant sensor, and installed new injectors. Adjusted the arm calibration on the airflow (AFM) door for best running. It wants to be lean between around 50 to 90% thottle and gets really lean nearing 90%. For the last 10% of the throttle range, the WOT indicator switch on the throttle shaft activates, and the computer pours in extra fuel, and the mixture is what it needs to be, so it takes off great if you floor it. If you enrich the system for that 50-90% range to work better, then it tends towards too rich at idle and light cruise. Without a schematic, I can't see for sure where to change a resistor or 2 in the ECU or AFM to make that range run better.

I put in a Torquer cam and that 50-90% lean throttle range went leaner, I got that adjusted better with the AFM and the fuel pressure, but it is obvious that the more cam is put in, the worse that lean area gets. I have read that the stock mapping was tilted towards lower emission and fuel economy. Any decent carb setup has a better mid to heavy throttle responsiveness.

So am heading towards putting 2x DCOE45's on the engine now; need to put them to use!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,402 Posts
As you may have detected in what he said, stock fuel injection systems, especially the older first versions of them, like what he is talking about and what I currently have(although slightly newer) had primary emphasis on low emissions and fuel economy, not power. So, since he is a racer-minded fellow, he is considering ditching his FI and putting on dual side draft carbs.
I had a side draft carb on my previous engine and it was ferocious. I had to get a new engine and I got one with stock Opel FI and now I'm a lot slower. I'm now considering replacing the computer and sensing devices of my set up with a more modern system that I can adjust for more power. This means $$$$ and me learning how to do all that stuff.
So, as you can see, it's not as simple as just putting FI on your car. For a very long time, side draft carbs were the max power option. But they are not at all easy to tune and set up and you have to have a healthy engine that's worth putting them on.
That's why I suggest you get your basics sorted out before you jump in the pool.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
As you may have detected in what he said, stock fuel injection systems, especially the older first versions of them, like what he is talking about and what I currently have(although slightly newer) had primary emphasis on low emissions and fuel economy, not power. So, since he is a racer-minded fellow, he is considering ditching his FI and putting on dual side draft carbs.
I had a side draft carb on my previous engine and it was ferocious. I had to get a new engine and I got one with stock Opel FI and now I'm a lot slower. I'm now considering replacing the computer and sensing devices of my set up with a more modern system that I can adjust for more power. This means $$$$ and me learning how to do all that stuff.
So, as you can see, it's not as simple as just putting FI on your car. For a very long time, side draft carbs were the max power option. But they are not at all easy to tune and set up and you have to have a healthy engine that's worth putting them on.
That's why I suggest you get your basics sorted out before you jump in the pool.
Yeaah lets see how evreything workout i start taking evreything apart today but the rain stop me but thats what i was trying to explain that why i just want the manifold so i can adapt a better system the stock it was one of the first cars fuel injected but is to old and the computer cant be tuned the way it should be but we will get there thanks a lot for the information you have been very helpful
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,712 Posts
Get liquid nitrogen freeze an area and hit it with a hammer. Can be dangerous..... Gotta be very careful to not freeze yourself!

Me, I just use a hammer and chisel and lots of muscle. A lot of it will be well baked and brittle and will chisel out easily after being baked in NM for so many years. Do you care much that it comes out?

Let us see the floorboards after the carpet is pulled up!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Get liquid nitrogen freeze an area and hit it with a hammer. Can be dangerous..... Gotta be very careful to not freeze yourself!

Me, I just use a hammer and chisel and lots of muscle. A lot of it will be well baked and brittle and will chisel out easily after being baked in NM for so many years. Do you care much that it comes out?

Let us see the floorboards after the carpet is pulled up!
Thanks I will do, i may go the chisel and hammer way i have never use the liquid nitrogen but hopefully tomorow i finish to strip all the interior if it doesnt rain i order the rubeers for the windshield and rear glass and the headliner i will try to dye the carpet
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Wow! that interior needs some work! Keep on truckin'.
Yes is gonna be fun a least the carpet is no rip im gonna dye it black i order the headliner already my friend offer me a pair of front seats from a ep3 civic si he got around i dont know if it will fit but im gonna try im gonna go black and red in the interior
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,712 Posts
That went fast! I got a Manta from Texas and it was similar... all that heat bakes the tar to a brittle layer that comes off more easily.

The rust situation look pretty good!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
That went fast! I got a Manta from Texas and it was similar... all that heat bakes the tar to a brittle layer that comes off more easily.

The rust situation look pretty good!
Yeaah no bad some easy patches i clean the trunk but still have to take that black stuff off do you have a thread here of hour car send me the link please to take a look i have never own a opel so im learning on the fly
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,233 Posts
I recommend a factory service manual for your year....way better than Chilton or Haynes.
 
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Discussion Starter #40
Headliner and rubbers came in today from united kingdon i find that webside in google and is legit delivery in less than a week great quality and very cheap, Was able to strip all the insulation left in the trunk and all the panels inside just headliner and dash left tomorow i will be taking all the glass no more rust spots find so thats it for rust, like some flares i see in a manta any advise how to take out the windshield and rear will be very welcome
 

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