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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
i'm going to try to get my engine started next sunday. i already tried to turn the engine, and it does, not easy but it turn's. (hand turned it with a wrench) now i'm thinking of what to do before i start her. i don't want to screw up the engine. so i want your feedback on this. couldn;t find a topic on this.
the car has been sitting outside and in garages for the last 20 years.

thnx
tom
 

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tom_laan said:
Hello,
i'm going to try to get my engine started next sunday. i already tried to turn the engine, and it does, not easy but it turn's. (hand turned it with a wrench) now i'm thinking of what to do before i start her. i don't want to screw up the engine. so i want your feedback on this. couldn;t find a topic on this.
the car has been sitting outside and in garages for the last 20 years.

thnx
tom
fresh gas?
gas filters- 2 are recommended?
fresh oil?
shoot some oil down the spark plug openings?
new plugs?
good luck? :cool:
 

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Opeler
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change the oil, check gas for water and change the fuel filter, take spark plugs out, unplug the coil, and make sure your points are in good shape, use a good battery ane turn the motor over several time ( you don't want to burn your starter out) until your oil pressure come up. now once you have it primed , check you carb for fuel, set your time mark , and your point gap, install plugs, coil wires, and fire her up.. the point of this is to make sure your
engine has oil though out..also before you drive it ,,, check your rear end and trainy for oil... good luck...
 

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Old Opeler
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Oil It!

After you have put new oil and filter in it carefully remove the distributor noting where the rotor was pointing so you can put it back inthe same place. Then use a drive made up like a flat bladed screw driver to turn the oil pump over till oil comes out through the rockers. You may have to prime the pump to get it to suck oil since it has been sitting dry for so long and be sure to fill the new filter with fresh oil before putting it on. Getting oil around the motor as soon as possible is critical since the motor will be dry.
 

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Like Jim says, get the oil circulating BEFORE you turn the engine over. Any further cranking will almost certainly damage bearings, cylinders, lifters and cam lobes.

A small addition to what Jim said. Use an electric drill to turn the distributor drive, as you need a bit of rpm to generate pressure (remember that the distributor spins at half the engine rpm, so a 1250 rpm drill will be the same as the engine turning 2500 rpm).

And to prime the pump, which is often needed if the car has sat for a long time, or when it is initially started after a rebuild, you need to remove the plug at the side of the timing chain case. Some use a square male end plug, others use a Allen-head socket-head plug, but it is at the side of the case, about level with the crank. Just remove the plug, use an oiling can and squirt oil in until it is full, re-install the plug and then spin the distributor drive until you get oil in the valve train.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i was planning on not using the gas tank. cause i didn't look in it yet. going to take a yerrycan and use that as a tank. was going to change the oil. (my dad just wanted to fire her up :eek: ) but i said NO. uhm my english is not so well. i mean my technical. lol.

but i was wondering. how can i get a drill to turn the engine? there is no space left there. it's already a hassle to turn it with a wrench.

thnx for all your input. you really helped me.

tom
 

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boomerang opeler
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tom you dont turn the engine with the drill you take the fuel pump off and the distributer out ,then you can use a drill out drive the oil pump by getting an old long flat blade screwdriver and fixing it in the drill ,put it in the hole the dizzy goes in and engage it in the drive slot of the oil pump(you will see the size of the blade needed by the shape on the bottom of the dizzy drive shaft )

this drives the pump the same as if the engine was running

HTH
 

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Opeler
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Starting up old engines!

Don't worry. Your engine is built tough .A few years ago I bought a 1973 Opel wagon that had not run in 10 years or so. I took off the carb and cleaned it out(taking it apart to check the float/needle).Next I changed the oil(you should use a 10w30 or even a 5w30 which you will change again after initially running it for a couple of days). After cleaning the points/distibutor cap up and new plugs she fired right up.I also primed the oil system by removing the plugs and coil wire and cranking it a bunch of times.(this also blows out anycrap inside the cylinders).You could also pre lube the cylinders with wd 40 or similar lube(couple squirts in each plug hole).I wouldn,t bother hand priming(i only do that with newly rebuilt engines).I did end up removing the gas tank a few weeks later(full of mud water).I ran that wagon for 2-3 years before selling it.Also I put a fuel filter before the fuel pump(clear one) which you should check for crap in about once a week.It is alot easier than taking off fuel pump to clean it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my first attempt failed :mad:
put new oil and filter on it. put the fuel line in a yerrycan with fuel. and tried to fire her up. but i coudn't get the fuel to the carb. you see the fuel pump sucking fuel but it didn't even get to the fuel pump (30cm higher)
i took the fuel pump off now. it seems i can't take this thing apart. it wasn't bolted with 6 screws as the book said. took the filter of (my dad tried to screw the screw through the filter :eek:) not a good idea!! and he blamed me for not putting the filter in correct. lol. when we took the pump off it we tried it and it worked. also took the lines off. blowed them trough. didn't had a chance to try again. had a 120amp battery but only put out 10 volt's had a crappy charger that looked like 50 years old (my dad smoked it) it seems my dad screws up a lot of things. and he is the one who knows all this things. well. have to wait till next sunday to give it another try....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
could it be that the engine didn't turn fast enough to pump the fuel to the carb?
 

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boomerang opeler
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tom_laan said:
could it be that the engine didn't turn fast enough to pump the fuel to the carb?
it takes time at 2-5 cc / stroke to fill the lines and carb so if its turning slow it takes time ,
this is not the safest way but you can dropp a few cc's into the top of the carb and then crank it and the spurt of power will prime it ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so what you are saying is. if the engine doesn't turn so fast it would still get fuel to the engine, rather than not get to the carb at all (turned the engine over like 20 sec. while i have like a 4 feet fuel line from yerrycan to carb. also i noticed, when we let the engine turn over he sucks fuel, in the first turn it sucks fuel like 30cm high, then it drops and it sucks fuel like 28 cm high. and it seems to decend with every turn. and after a few turn is just keeps bungling around at a 15cm above the yerrycan.. would this be an indication that the pump is broke?
 

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tom_laan said:
.. would this be an indication that the pump is broke?
Sounds plausible- have you tried putting it down the throat manually- Carefully and not recommended but has been done before :cool:
 

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Opeler
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Not Running yet!

Your last post about decreasing fuel into system tells me that you have a sticking float level.Like I said before I cleaned out the carb and dissassembled it on my 1973 Opel Wagon(sat for 10 years by prev owner).The old gas turns into a varnish like substance which will make the needle stick inside the seat(keeping it shut).Take it apart and clean out float /needle/seat and she will probably run well.You can even do this without taking the carb off(just unscrew the top to bottom half screws and lift apart gently).Be careful not to drop anything into the engine through the carb.Then work the float/needle assembily till it moves freely(carb cleaner works well).Make sure you also have cleaned out the fuel pump filter(mechanical pump) by removing center bolt on front cover.Also be sure you have spark( pull plug wires one at a time and place a known good plug on the end and ground the plug to the block and have someone crank engine while you look for spark at plug.Be methodical and don't skip these steps or it will not run.
 

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Opeler
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Fuel pump Output!

Also forgot to mention.Take off the fuel pump to carb line (at carb end and put the end if the line in a jar or can.If she pumps fuel into jar at a decent rate(not measily trickles) then your pump is okay.If not much fuel then your pump is bad.Even a slow moving crank of the engine should produce nice suirts into the jar.
 

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GTJIM said:
.... Then use a drive made up like a flat bladed screw driver to turn the oil pump over till oil comes out through the rockers.
I have always had the fear that you could wipe out the guide bushing in the block if you used too lagre a screwdriver blade and did not hold it perfectly straight. I took an old distributor and removed the drive gear from it.
 

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Jim what does this mean? "to turn the oil pump over till oil comes out through the rockers.
 

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If you turn the oil pump with a screw driver (there is a slot in one of the gear shafts that will accept a screwdriver blade) it will pump the oil and you will see oil drip out of the rocker area when the vlave cover is off, and in theory the engine oil system is then primed.
 

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Old Opeler
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Explaination

Al,
By removing the distributor, a piece of round bar ( about 12mm diam) with a flat end on it like the bottom of the distributor drive can be used to rotate the oil pump while the motor is stopped. Only the oil pump is being "turned over" or rotated using an electric drill on the other end of the round bar.
This will pump oil all around the motor and when you see oil bubbling up through the rockers ( with the valve cover off) you will know that the whole motor has fresh oil everywhere oil should be.
HTH
 
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