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Discussion Starter #1
Now when I drive for 3 min the car shuts off. Cool off a couple minutes starts n and then shuts down 100 yards later. Just stops when driving. Any ideas? I am driving along and then it sputters then no throttle response. Rolls until slow then stalls. Wait ten minutes. Starts and drives for 100 yards and stalls.:bs2:
 

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Now when I drive for 3 min the car shuts off. Cool off a couple minutes starts n and then shuts down 100 yards later. Just stops when driving. Any ideas? I am driving along and then it sputters then no throttle response. Rolls until slow then stalls. Wait ten minutes. Starts and drives for 100 yards and stalls.:bs2:
Standard symptoms of a hot coil.
Also symptoms of a starving fuel system with an electric pump.
Also symptoms of a bad condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The fuel filter in front of the carb was full. This makes me think is has fuel. My car is a 69, does it have a condenser?

Would a bad ignition coil also cause the car to not turn over every time when trying to start?

When starting, half the time there is just a click. The other half it turns over and starts.

I am one of those raised in the 90 ‘s fools who don’t quite yet get these old buckets of bolts.
 

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The fuel filter in front of the carb was full. This makes me think is has fuel. My car is a 69, does it have a condenser?

Would a bad ignition coil also cause the car to not turn over every time when trying to start?

When starting, half the time there is just a click. The other half it turns over and starts.

I am one of those raised in the 90 ‘s fools who don’t quite yet get these old buckets of bolts.
All of your symptoms can be from an engine not grounded with a proper ground strap.

Yes, a stock 69 has a condenser
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did buy a new ground strap for the engine. Is it as simple as two bolts and some scotch bright to clean up?

The existing ground strap does not look too bad but could have poor contact.
 

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I did buy a new ground strap for the engine. Is it as simple as two bolts and some scotch bright to clean up?

The existing ground strap does not look too bad but could have poor contact.
Yup, just that simple
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is it that the spark plugs are grounded to the block, and the block is grounded to the frame?

So if the ground is bad you get no spark?
 

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The ankle bone is connected to the leg bone....

Yes, that is sort of how it works. The drive train (engine, transmission, rear drive) is all mounted on rubber, which, of course, is an insulator and not a conductor of electricity. Yes, there are bolts here and there where the engine might be sort of connected to the rest of the car's electric circuit, but the good contact comes from the ground strap.

The circuitry is quite simple, and keep in mind that electricity operates essentially in a circle, with electrons moving from the negative pole of the battery to the positive side, routing through the negative battery cable attached to the frame of the car, then through various wired until they get to the positive side. If the ground strap is absent from the engine, then the engine and everything connected to it will be out of the circuit.

The interesting thing is that you mention is that sometimes when you go to start the car, you just get a "click". This click is probably the starter solenoid on the starter motor being activated (click) but not having enough juice from the battery to turn the car over. The fact that the car sometimes turns over and starts, but not always, is symptomatic of a bad connection at the battery. Remove the connections and clean them up and replace them.

It is possible that the inability to turn over is unrelated to the more difficult problem of run-stop-run, which does sound symptomatic of a bad coil, which does happen. It could also be a bad condenser but these do not fail so often (although if not changed in fifty years...). One of the old car magazines, maybe it was Mechanics Illustrated, had as a columnist the legendary Smokey Yunick answering readers' quections and I recall his response to one about condenser, routinely changed out at every tuneup, that about 90% of those thrown away were still good. I have had experience where the condenser was making poor contact with the distributor, exhibiting the same issue that you are having, but if you have not been doing anything with the ignition system, this would be unlikely. It is also possible that oil is coming up inside the distributor, insulating the ignition points. Left to sit a few minutes, enough contact becomes available to start the engine.
 

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Oxide on the battery posts and connectors together with loose connectors are often the cause of "clicking". The ground strap from the battery can also have a bad connection to the car body, even though it looks to be ok on the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It has electronic ignition. I also checked my box of parts that came with the car and their was a rebuilt distributor so I installed that. Again swapping points for electronic ignition. I don’t have a timing gun, but a friend does so I will need to borrow that.
 

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Ah, you did not mention that you had electronic ignition, which of course is not a stock item, and herein may be the source of your run-stop-run-stop problem, I am not fully familiar with all of the details of electronic ignition systems, especially the older versions, but having read this and a couple of other forums for a number of years, some of the more common running complaints seems to start and end here. I do have personal experience with one system. I once owned a Ferrari 246, otherwise known and badged as a Dino. The Dinoplex electronic ignition was so bad that the car came out of the factory with a plug-in backup system. All the driver had to do was go into the tiny little storage space behind the engine, pull a couple of wires off one terminal and plug them in to another and off you went, the only disadvantage being the tach no longer operated until the Dinoplex was replaced and the hookup reversed. This will still not have anything to do with the "click" issue, but it is possible that poor battery contacts could cause the run-stop-run-stop problem, especially if the alternator is not operating properly.
 

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Here's what happens, more times than it should.

Someone buys a pertronix.
They install it using the power wire that's attached to the coil.
It doesn't work.
They see the yellowish/clear wire going to the positive side of the coil and assume some PO used "speaker wire" in an emergency.
They replace the speaker wire with a regular wire and, voila, it works.

Then after a bit, the car shuts down randomly. After sitting a bit it will fire back up.
Rinse and repeat.

The problem...

The yellowish/clear wire is supposed to be that way. It's a resistor wire that restricts the voltage to the coil to @ 7V. The coil is designed to run at that voltage.

Most pertronix won't run on 7v.

When the yellowish/clear wire is replaced, 12v is supplied to the coil.

The coil will work for a short while with that voltage and then it either fails or thermally resets.

The solution: A different 12v coil OR replace the supply to the coil with a ballast resistor or resistor wire, then add a 12V supply to the pertronix.

To test... When the car shuts off, feel the coil. If it's hot, then you probably found the shutoff issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a resistor wire to the ignition coil and it shows 6 volts. The electronic ignition is powered off this same post at 6 volts.

So you are saying I should have a 12 volt supply to the pertronic?
 

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I have a resistor wire to the ignition coil and it shows 6 volts. The electronic ignition is powered off this same post at 6 volts.

So you are saying I should have a 12 volt supply to the pertronic?
That is exactly what I'm saying.
 
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