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I'll try and answer everyone questions. To keep from boring everyone with little details I'll hit the highpoints. If someone wants all the details on a item just ask.
I'm running a Quad 4 bellhousing with a Zetec aluminum flywheel and stock pressure plate. The clutch disk is from a thunderbird 2.3 turbo as it matches up to the T5. As most of you already know the S-10 T5 is an option to install in the GT since the shifter comes out in the stock location and the swap is pretty easily done. Since I had already been running one behind the Opel engine it was a logical choice for the Zetec. Since the Quad 4 bellhousing only accepts Ford mounting and I was wanting to upgrade to a world class transmission anyway I chose the 97 mustang T5. It's the last T5 version for the mustangs, but the main reason I picked it over other T5's is because it has the long input shaft. This requires a 1" spacer between the engine and bellhousing. I wanted this because it will cause the engine to be located an inch further forward and give the extra clearance needed for the thermostat housing to clear the firewall. The downside is that the crank pilot needs to be drilled out to accept the larger pilot bearing. The Quad 4 bellhousing has no provisions for a throw out bearing. So I shortened the T-5 front bearing retainer and machined a spacer to mount the factory Zetec hydraulic throw out bearing. The only thing I don't like about having a hydraulic clutch is that it's so soft (you can push it down with one finger) it has virtually no feel, but it works great. I swapped over the S-10 tailhousing to the Ford T-5 which required a small modification to the reverse syncro and the speedometer reluctor had to be relocated to match up with the S-10 tailhousing. If you wanted to run the stock mechanical speedometer the same modification would work for the speedo gear. That takes care of all the mods from the engine back. I'll get into the engine swap tomorrow.

ha ill just pay you to do it hb that XD
 

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Dog Man
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850 Posts
did you have to make motor mounts ..what compuer did you use for it . what cars are these motor in . can you use the rear that is in the opel ..did the motor go in for the top or the bottom. :yup:
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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7,426 Posts

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,110 Posts
I found this weight for a 2.0 Zetec on Wikipedia:

"A 2.0 L Crate Zetec-R has a shipping weight of 100kg dry (220 lbs)"

Here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Zetec_engine

I searched around for 4cyl. CIH Opel engines and found about 130kg for a long block and 156kg for a dry engine with intake/exhaust and peripherals.

156kg = 344lbs.
130kg = 286lbs.
 

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Super Moderator
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13,359 Posts
IS the Opel 1.9 a heavy motor for its size and is the Zetec lighter?
Everyone seems to think so, but honestly for an all-iron engine it's not that bad. I weighed a long block for shipping at 265 lbs...block/crank/rods/pistons/head/ cam/ oil pan/ timing cover and a lightened flywheel even.

Even an all aluminum Ecotec 2.2 weighs more!
 

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I,m in the middle of this project but I'm doing it differently than most have. I will post the results and how I did it when I'm done.
 

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... I'm not fond of hack jobs. Other then removing the stock radiator brackets, throttle linkage brackets and the air cleaner bracket for a cleaner install, drilling two holes in the radiator ... Nothing else was changed. An Opel engine would bolt right back in.
It looks like the radiator is installed “feet forward”. In the photos it looks like it is tilted with the bottom towards the nose a good 20 or 30 degrees. Is that just an illusion or was is it angled? It looks so stock.
 
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