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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #41
Problem is that $20 lifter will cause a lot of collateral damage. In my case, it caused purchase of set of new lifters, new Enem camshaft, cost of car rental, cost of trailer rental, oil and filter replacement and ruined weekend.
 

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The P.O. of my wagon told me the motor was rebuilt by the "best machine shop" in NJ.

I had a rocker fail and when I pulled it I noticed the lifter had a hole in its top just like the ones used in SBC's for supplying oil through the push rods. There were two others like that in the motor. That hole wore out the rocker ball, jamming the rocker.

They must have similar dimensions and I always wanted to compare and them and try adapting the Opel top piece to one but never got around to it.
 

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RallyBob, as always, appreciate your perspective as a vendor and machinist on the front lines when Opel was a more relevant brand in the US.

Reading Viny's and PJ's builds; especially his carefully built 2.5 motor; it has to be beyond disappointing to have these kinds of failures what with the time, care and expense that was used in those rebuilt motors.

Just from this shade tree kind of mechanic's perspective; I recalled years ago in my issues of Car Craft, Hot Rod and Popular Hot Rodding that the Chevy/GM 454 LS6 engine featured a forged crank that was "Tuftrided", a chemical treatment process that made the bearing surfaces hardened.

In this age of One-Source components; of questionable metallurgical makeup and/or manufacture of these critical engine parts; is it realistic and even possible to have these new components farmed out to be treated via the Turftride or Nitride process? Could there be a long term benefit in doing this? Is doing something like this possibly going to be on the To-Do list for any future Opel engine rebuilder, faced with questionable parts origin? Or is tuftriding a cam lobe and lifter face something not normally done in the industry?

Looking at my unopened package of new Ajusa lifters, maybe a friendly email to them asking what kind of lifter face hardening procedures are used in their manufacture....

For engineers and engine guys like Bob and PJ, is it feasible and/or recommended for the home engine builder to go beyond the simple act of wrenching an engine back together and really consider these kinds of coatings?

Speaking of wrenching and stuff, how is Wrench459 doing? Don't seem to see him post much these days, or maybe it's just me.

PJ: Really sorry to see this happen to you.
 

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Problem is that $20 lifter will cause a lot of collateral damage. In my case, it caused purchase of set of new lifters, new Enem camshaft, cost of car rental, cost of trailer rental, oil and filter replacement and ruined weekend.
Or even potentially worse! Imagine if that hard, crystalline cast iron cam lobe material passes thru your oil pump, or thru the main and rod bearings. Yup...not pretty.
 

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RallyBob, as always, appreciate your perspective as a vendor and machinist on the front lines when Opel was a more relevant brand in the US.

Reading Viny's and PJ's builds; especially his carefully built 2.5 motor; it has to be beyond disappointing to have these kinds of failures what with the time, care and expense that was used in those rebuilt motors.

Just from this shade tree kind of mechanic's perspective; I recalled years ago in my issues of Car Craft, Hot Rod and Popular Hot Rodding that the Chevy/GM 454 LS6 engine featured a forged crank that was "Tuftrided", a chemical treatment process that made the bearing surfaces hardened.

In this age of One-Source components; of questionable metallurgical makeup and/or manufacture of these critical engine parts; is it realistic and even possible to have these new components farmed out to be treated via the Turftride or Nitride process? Could there be a long term benefit in doing this? Is doing something like this possibly going to be on the To-Do list for any future Opel engine rebuilder, faced with questionable parts origin? Or is tuftriding a cam lobe and lifter face something not normally done in the industry?

Looking at my unopened package of new Ajusa lifters, maybe a friendly email to them asking what kind of lifter face hardening procedures are used in their manufacture....

For engineers and engine guys like Bob and PJ, is it feasible and/or recommended for the home engine builder to go beyond the simple act of wrenching an engine back together and really consider these kinds of coatings?

Speaking of wrenching and stuff, how is Wrench459 doing? Don't seem to see him post much these days, or maybe it's just me.

PJ: Really sorry to see this happen to you.
There are machine shops here in Finland that offer nitriding as an option for a cam or crank grind so it should be possible in the US too.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #47
Interesting discussion with Gil. He has very good experience with Ajusa lifters reliability. He even had them tested for proper hardness. Still, we have agreed to replace them with a set of US made Opel lifters from his stash.

On the other hand, he hears only horror stories about BGA lifters from England.
 

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RallyBob, as always, appreciate your perspective as a vendor and machinist on the front lines when Opel was a more relevant brand in the US.

Reading Viny's and PJ's builds; especially his carefully built 2.5 motor; it has to be beyond disappointing to have these kinds of failures what with the time, care and expense that was used in those rebuilt motors.

Just from this shade tree kind of mechanic's perspective; I recalled years ago in my issues of Car Craft, Hot Rod and Popular Hot Rodding that the Chevy/GM 454 LS6 engine featured a forged crank that was "Tuftrided", a chemical treatment process that made the bearing surfaces hardened.

In this age of One-Source components; of questionable metallurgical makeup and/or manufacture of these critical engine parts; is it realistic and even possible to have these new components farmed out to be treated via the Turftride or Nitride process? Could there be a long term benefit in doing this? Is doing something like this possibly going to be on the To-Do list for any future Opel engine rebuilder, faced with questionable parts origin? Or is tuftriding a cam lobe and lifter face something not normally done in the industry?

Looking at my unopened package of new Ajusa lifters, maybe a friendly email to them asking what kind of lifter face hardening procedures are used in their manufacture....

For engineers and engine guys like Bob and PJ, is it feasible and/or recommended for the home engine builder to go beyond the simple act of wrenching an engine back together and really consider these kinds of coatings?

Speaking of wrenching and stuff, how is Wrench459 doing? Don't seem to see him post much these days, or maybe it's just me.

PJ: Really sorry to see this happen to you.
Mike I wouldn't just Email them about their lifters,I'd call and get more info. Look at the time and money that was lost. PJ: Really sorry to see this happen to you as well, I would have gone Ballistic. Jarrell
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I'll tell ya, I'm getting sick and tired of dealing with real or imagined hydraulic lifter issues and the stuff I hear about them. I feel like my engine is a ticking time bomb waiting to blow because of them.

I drove bazillions of miles in a GT with solids and if they started tapping I would spend an hour or so once a year adjusting them and I was done with them and had total peace of mind. These pumpy, squirty, springy, hydrocephalic gizmos give me no peace of mind.

I'm really inclined to look into a solid grind cam and solids.

:sigh:
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I'll tell ya, I'm getting sick and tired of dealing with real or imagined hydraulic lifter issues and the stuff I hear about them. I feel like my engine is a ticking time bomb waiting to blow because of them.

I drove bazillions of miles in a GT with solids and if they started tapping I would spend an hour or so once a year adjusting them and I was done with them and had total peace of mind. These pumpy, squirty, springy, hydrocephalic gizmos give me no peace of mind.

I'm really inclined to look into a solid grind cam and solids.

:sigh:
The problem is not in a hydraulic lifters design but in their metallurgy, i.e. resistance to wear. If solid lifters are not properly hardened, they will cause the same problem. They might even wear in a shorter time due to typically steeper ramp of solid cams.

I am pleased that I replaced standard oil drain plug with a magnetic type. It appears that it caught most of "steel dust" created by the wear of lifter. Also good news is that the cam lobe is just pitted, so very few of those super hard particles went into oil and hopefully were all caught by magnet and oil filter.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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A solid lifter can work on a hydro cam.But not a hydro lifter on a solid cam.
But at time to get quality okay solid lifter is the the same story.
You must find them:ugh:
REALLY? I can use solids with my hydraulic cam? I would do that so fast it would make your head spin. 8 less things to go wrong. If I hear a little tap, it's not a warning sign that my engine is going to self destruct.

I might really do this.

:yup:
 

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Über Genius
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Most people don't even know how hydraulic lifters work.
If you did, Gordon, you'd realize why you want them.
 

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Hmmm....I just talked with Gil about the idea and he doesn't like it. He suggests a solid grind cam with solid lifters. Poo. :sigh:
A solid idea.:lmao: See that a joke, seriously Gil is correct a solid grind with solid lifters. Pj the wear on that lobe is terrible. Jarrell
 

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Question

I am pleased that I replaced standard oil drain plug with a magnetic type. It appears that it caught most of "steel dust" created by the wear of lifter. Also good news is that the cam lobe is just pitted, so very few of those super hard particles went into oil and hopefully were all caught by magnet and oil filter.
Where was drain plug purchased and what type. Changing oil and filter is next on the list, before I crank up. Thank you, Jarrell
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Most people don't even know how hydraulic lifters work.
If you did, Gordon, you'd realize why you want them.
Let's see......225,000 trouble free miles with solids and peace of mind the whole time.....versus 8000 miles with hydraulics and I've hated them from the day they were installed and if one of them fails my cam get's nuked or worse.

I know all I want to know about hydraulics.

:veryhappy
 
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