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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My linkage system is pretty damned sad in my 73 GT, and I have converted to a 32/36 (just rebuilt and rejeted). I want to put in a cable for the accelerator, and junk out the sloppy linkages. I have never liked linkage systems, they don't ever seem to have a nice positive feel to them.

I searched for quite a bit, but came up pretty much empty. Anyone used another OEM cable setup? I want to hunt the JY for something that is long enough, but maybe you guys can save me some time and effort with a tried and tested setup? Fabbing brackets etc is no prob.....

Thanks,
Tim
 

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Tim240Z said:
My linkage system is pretty damned sad in my 73 GT, and I have converted to a 32/36 (just rebuilt and rejeted). I want to put in a cable for the accelerator, and junk out the sloppy linkages. I have never liked linkage systems, they don't ever seem to have a nice positive feel to them.

I searched for quite a bit, but came up pretty much empty. Anyone used another OEM cable setup? I want to hunt the JY for something that is long enough, but maybe you guys can save me some time and effort with a tried and tested setup? Fabbing brackets etc is no prob.....

Thanks,
Tim
I suspect a Manta carburetor throttle bracket could be used with a modified cable and pedal linkage. At least this way it's almost 'bolt-on'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
RallyBob said:
I suspect a Manta carburetor throttle bracket could be used with a modified cable and pedal linkage. At least this way it's almost 'bolt-on'.
Thanks Bob! I think that I will not be able to find a manta in the yards though....
BTW....I don't suppose you have any header flanges laying around? :(
 

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Tim;
I think I have a Manta throttle bracket set-up that I could let go. The only thing is you have to figure a way to go from the GT's pedal to cable, that's really the hard part. It'd be in your best interest to talk to some of these guys who have done a side draft set-up on their GT as it would be doing the same thing as you're wanting to do.
Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, if necessary, I will take the pedal out and weld on a bracket to accept the cable........I'm sure that just about any cable will work as long as it has sufficient length.

Thanks guys...
Tim
 

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with a little creativity you could probably just fab up a bracket that bolts to that hole in the intake manifold thats unused on the GT to hold one side of the cable and the same sort of bracket for under the throttle (not sure where it would mount), then just use a standard bicycle cable... i was thinking about this while i was fighting with my throttle linkage a couple days ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah....I was thinking of a bicycle brake or gear change cable too. Seems like the easiest and cheapest route, plus they are long.....long cables seem to be pretty scarce in the yards...
 

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motorcycle stuff

If you can source one, the cables motorcycles use for clutch cables are a lot sturdier and weather tight than bicycles, most shops will have a cut to length available if you need it.

On the Kadett, and I thought on the GT too, there is already a cable bracket built-in to the system, coming out the bottom of the linkage just beside where the pedal comes through the firewall on the engine side. It is designed to be used for the automatic tranny kick-down cable, but on a manual tranny car it should work super-easy for a cable throttle. Anyone with an auto GT that can take a photo quick to illustrate? The cable comes out of the bracket pointing down, but if you have to get a cable made anyway, what's another 10" to turn it around in exchange for easy?
 

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Speedway GT's throttle cable is a Morse cable, linked to the stock gas pedal (modified and moved yes, but stock) at the carb end it mounts to the firewall and the rod links to the carb. It is simple, extremely rugged, exceeds the safety rules outrageously, and works! Morse cables can be custom built to any length, visit your local heavy equipment dealer to get one. There are lots of different cable-end hookups for them, from clevis to ball/socket. They can push or pull, the force of push and pull it can take is tested and certified on the tag affixed to it. There are maintenance kits available to lube them. They are the standard of the industry.
 
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