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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #61
Well I got em on. With a little aggressive persuasion.

I took off the outer tie rod ends. I didnt need to mark them because it was obvious where they screwed back in to. Then a little help from my ol friend "all purpose grease" they slid right on. Boy, that was fun. Not!!

Thanks all. :)
 

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Honest to God I did it with the use of a pickle fork and WD 40. Popped out the outer ball joint then worked it past everything. These were new ones from OGTS I put on the blue GT. It took about an hour and a half start to finish and no need for realignment.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #63
AM I going to have to cut off everything?

Dang, 15 -16 years of storage has really taken it's toll on my front end. I got one shock out but I think I am going to have to cut the other one out. Also, those little cone shaped bumper things. How the heck to you get those off. I burned one totally off hoping that there would be a rod or a screw left where I could get a grip on it with some vice grips, but all there is left is a little round thing the shape of a dime. I think Ill have to cut those off too.

:(

Well, good things is after im all done it will be nice and new. :eek:
 

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Thom, the rubber bumpers should screw out. There is a stud under all that rubber. Liberal use of a rust remover/penetrant should be used a week or so before trying to remove bolts, nuts, etc. I know it's a PIA but to save whatcha got that's the only way to go. HTH.
 

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On replacing them on Willit?, I didn't have the steering arm hooked up to the spindle. I just used "Technical Petrolatum", a fancy name for commercial grade "Vaseline" and slid them over the whole mess to where they clamped in place. Like Dave's, these were new from OGTS. A bit messy, but the time frame's about the same.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #66
I was thinking that there was a stud under all that rubber, so I burned one off. All of the rubber is gone and there is nothing left but a small dime sized piece of flat metal that the screw is welded to. It is actually big enough that I can get a grip with my needle nose vice grips, but right now the nut is frozen. I'll saturate it all week with liquid wrench and see what happens.
 

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Old Opeler
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Chisel ....

That wee dime sized bit is what the rubber was bonded to during manufacture. As you can see there is a stud on the other side which bolts up through the front suspension cross member.
To remove the rusted nut just use a sharp cold chisel to split it along the line of the stud. Hold a piece of steel bar on the other side of the nut (you will need an assistant - or four hands!) and drive the cold chisel into the flat on the opposite side so that the nut splits open along the thread. Even if not split the nut will "get bigger" due to the chisel notch and loosen up on the stud.
Done skillfully the thread will not be damaged and the other rubber bumpers may be reusable ...
The steel bar acts as a "bolster" to hit against so that you do not slog out the mounting hole or bend things.
HTH
 

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To add to what Ron said, if you can get it out without buggering the threads up too much, you can tap it and get most of the threads back. Maybe enough to hold it tight with a little Blue Loctite on the replacement. If not, GTJims idea is the way to go. OGTS was out last year when I did mine, but I believe they have them in stock now. Jarrell
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #69
My "little friend" worked great. (Air cutting tool) 30 seconds of aggressive persuasion and bye bye.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #70
Stuck Shock

I'm in a bit of a sticky wicket!!! I have a shock that I just can't get out. Soaked the damn bolt in liquid wrench for over two weeks now.

How do you cut this thing off. The problem I have is where the shock goes up through the fender, the part of the front cross member is flared out and I cant get my air cutting tool in there to cut it off. The place where the nut is on the inside of the fender is in too small of an area to get any kind of cutting tool in there. So what to do?

Small hand hack saw? Air grinder and grint the nut off?

ANy help or suggestions would be Jim Dandy.
 

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Thom, I'm guessing you talking about a GT shock upper mount, if so, you can access the nut under the plastic cap in the engine compartment. then you can use a Dremel, flex drive and a rotary file. More than enuff room for those in that little hole.
 

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vice grips

The metal the shock center rod is made out of is so hard that 95% of the time you can grab the end straight on with a pair of vice grips, rock the nut back and forth a couple of times, and just break the end of the shaft right off. Usually works for me, your luck may vary.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #73
I drilled it

Got under the fender and took a small drill and drilled a hole all the way through the bolt on the top of the shock. Then I moved up a size and so on and so on. Took about 10 minutes but I killed and it was way easier than the dremel method in my opinion.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #74
Which way does the upper ball joint go???

Upper ball joints. Which way does the little logo thingy go? does it face the inside of the fender or the ouside? This logo was not visible until I cleaned the heck out of it.


http://www.ttwatchworks.com/Opel Images/upperjoint.jpg
 

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Depends on what you want your alignment (camber) to be. Note that the upper mounting holes are offset from center.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Well, I have the sport lowering spring so I need to adjust for the negative camber that that creates. OGTS suggests rotating the ball joints 180 degrees, which was my intention, but I dont know which is the original point of origin to rotate them from.
 

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Then to reduce the negative camber you need to point the marking towards the 'outside' of the car. This will make the spindle more upright and reduce negative camber. Unless your photo is reversed!
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #78
Oh OH, anyone run into this problem?

Ok, so Im putting my front end back together. I have the Sport lowering spring and as I am trying to put the end bolts in, where it connects to the outer part of the control arm where the ball joints are, I just cant get it lined up. I finally see why............ the spring is hitting the bottom of the ball joint. :confused: :mad: Now what?!?!? Grind away part of the spring for clearance?
 

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Senior Contributor
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I had to grind my spring to make it fit. I called OGTS when I had the problem and Gil told me that it was normal to have this problem. He said it does not occur on all GTs, which I don't understand, but in any case it is not unusual to have to grind the spring. Make sure you do a nice job of grinding so that there are nice smooth radius' so as not to create any stress risers. I never took any pictures and mine is all assembled already.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #80
That's what I will have to do then. It doesnt need that much clearance before I can get the bolt all the way through. I got so mad because I fought with it for over an hour on both sides before I stuck my finger under there and realized it was hitting the back part of the ball joint. Good to know others have had the same problem. I think the area where they bend up the iron around to make the circle for the bushings is thicker and that is causing the problem.

I can't imagine that it will take too long as there isnt too much that needs to be taken out. Thank God I have an air compressor and grinder. Otherwise I'd be SOL.

Thanks guys

I'll post pics of the grinded area when I am done.
 
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