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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #81
Update

Well, I did one side before the wife made me come in early. Took about 30 minutes and it chewed up about 4 of my cutting wheels and half a grinding stone to get it down, it is done. Ill have to do the other side tomorrow.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
My front end... the almost final chapter

YAY!!! Got it almost together. I ran into several problems putting the suspension back in. The Spring eye was rounder than the stock spring so I had to use my air grinder to grind away part of the top of the spring eye. It was hitting the inside bottom of the lower ball joint. Next I had to loosen the inside of the lower control arms super "loosey Goosey" so I could get the bolts through the outer spring eye bushings. Loosening them made it cake though. Thanks to Gil at OGTS for that tip.

Lastly, even though I went on to Monroes website and they SPECIFICALLY said that Model 77 would fit a 1971 Opel GT... it didnt. The part at the bottom was too wide to fit into the area that is provided on the lower control arm. Soooo........10 minutes with my air grinder took care of that.

But I digress... only thing left to do is put the hubs on and the brakes and then I can put the wheels back on and lower it to the ground.
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
My front end... the FINAL CHAPTER!! DONE!!

WHOOO WHOOO!!!!

SUCCESS!! Well after 3 months I finally got the front end all back together and lowered to the ground!! SWEET!!! The wheel well is filled up with the wheel and tire and looks much more aggressive and sporty. Now, just wait until I get those custom made 16" Wheels and 50 series tires on this puppy!!!! To put it into perspective, it is a 14" wheel and 60 series tire that I have on there now.

The only snag I ran in to was that I had a bad drivers side outer tie rod, but the spare front end I had in my basement that I got from my other GT prooved to be a lifesaver. It had a brand new outer tie rod on it, so it was happy to be the donor.

See my before and after photos..........
 

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1970-GT
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Looks great lowered!
Will go back and read all you did to it. I think my stock spring is messed up, car sits 5/8" lower on drivers side! I think I'm going to get a new sport spring from ogs.
What is the bumper height now to the center?
Lyle
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #85
Tru-Craft said:
Looks great lowered!
Will go back and read all you did to it. I think my stock spring is messed up, car sits 5/8" lower on drivers side! I think I'm going to get a new sport spring from ogs.
What is the bumper height now to the center?
Lyle

Dont know, I have the bumper off and its going to get rechromed really soon. Ill measure where it is supposed to be though and let you know.

ABout your lean, you sure you dont have a messed up lower ball joint? That would create a lean like that.
 

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Tru-Craft said:
I think my stock spring is messed up, car sits 5/8" lower on drivers side!
Lyle, on a GT this is a common phenomenon. Normally you can look at one of two things.

1) Check the rear springs, see if one is cracked or improperly seated. The cross-wedge will change your front ride height on a diagonal.

2) Check for a bent front lower a-arm. Very common on GT's these days, I'd estimate 50-60% of the GT's on the road have a bent arm to some degree. They are very fragile. They will bend backwards, which puts a side-load on the lower spring eyelet. This will raise the side of the car with the bent a-arm. It's sometimes hard to eye-ball, so the easiest way is to measure the wheelbase of the car. Should be 95.7". I've seen them as little as 95 1/8" on some GT's!

Bob
 

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1970-GT
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Bob, just went out and measured everything. The rear springs are seated good. 2 years ago I put poly sping seats top and bottom. The right rear spring protrudes about 3/16 more than the left rear. Right rear of car is about 3/8 higher than left rear.
The wheel base checks 95-3/4 both sides +-1/8.
I put a level under the A-arms. The left front angles down about 3/16 more than the right side, over the length of the A-arm (10")
The front is very stiff! It moves up and down a couple inches and returns to same position. Moved car and re-measured and got the same 3/4 lower on left front.
Any thoughts?
Lyle
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter #88
I measured and the front bumper center will be about 17" off the ground
 

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Thom71GT said:
My front end... the FINAL CHAPTER!! DONE!! .......
Thom, these were SUCH good posts that I merged them into one terrific thread on rebuilding a front suspension. If you happen to find any other posts that would fit here, please let me know and I will merge them in.
 

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Switch your rear springs side to side and see if it changes anything.
Look at the center of the front spring and see if there is a metal strap keeping the leafs centered.
Measuring the wheelbase is kind of tricky, it is rarely done with enough accuracy to be of any use here. You need a level floor, car blocked up level with wheels off, a plumb bob and marker pen. It's best to have the suspension "loaded" at ride height, I use tools made of all-thread in place of each shock absorber to "pull" against the springs. I run the plumb bob string through the hole in the steering arm (tie rod ends removed) which obviously then isn't really measuring actual wheelbase but gives a reference number to campare side to side. See how this method removes error of trying to have the wheels "straight"? In back,I run the string over a top wheel stud, beside a lower stud, and mark the floor.
Till I learned how to do this right my chassis setups never worked. When you need an 1/8" of rear steer and screwups gave you 1/4" the driver of the car is not happy... The crew chief got me straightened out on this procedure long ago! If you think this sounds like a lot of fuss, try playing with "rear roll steer"!
 

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Mid-West Opeler
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WHOOO WHOOO!!!! SUCCESS!! Well after 3 months I finally got the front end all back together..........

I was thinking about attempting to replace the upper and lower bushings but not if it is going to take 3 months.

Anyone do it in a weekend or two?
 

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Bob, just went out and measured everything. The rear springs are seated good. 2 years ago I put poly sping seats top and bottom. The right rear spring protrudes about 3/16 more than the left rear. Right rear of car is about 3/8 higher than left rear.
The wheel base checks 95-3/4 both sides +-1/8.
I put a level under the A-arms. The left front angles down about 3/16 more than the right side, over the length of the A-arm (10")
The front is very stiff! It moves up and down a couple inches and returns to same position. Moved car and re-measured and got the same 3/4 lower on left front.
Any thoughts?
Lyle
Wheel base= the distance between the cent er of the front and rear wheels?:feedback:
 

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You should be able to do the front end A-frame bushings in a weekend. HTH
John
 

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Über Genius
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I was thinking about attempting to replace the upper and lower bushings but not if it is going to take 3 months.

Anyone do it in a weekend or two?
My son and I did it in a weekend. A few hours each day.

Now, if you want to clean, de-rust, and repaint your front suspension, that will take longer.
 

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Mid-West Opeler
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One concern

Will I run into the BOLTS from Hell.
 

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Über Genius
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Will I run into the BOLTS from Hell.
Not if you pretreat them with PBblaster every day for a week before disassembly.
 

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New question, not answered in this thread already.

Is the camber able to be adjusted in any way other than flipping the ball joints 180 degrees?

My front end is having terrible wear on the front tires on the outside. The left side is worse than the right.
I did have a pretty nasty toe in but while working on it I noticed I had a negative camber while the suspension was hanging free.



A front rebuild is in the near future and I will be taking it in to be aligned but want to be informed before I do it.
 

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New question, not answered in this thread already.

Is the camber able to be adjusted in any way other than flipping the ball joints 180 degrees?

My front end is having terrible wear on the front tires on the outside. The left side is worse than the right.
I did have a pretty nasty toe in but while working on it I noticed I had a negative camber while the suspension was hanging free.
Normally there are just two adjustments. Upper arms can be modified to provide more or less camber than usual.

Camber alone doesn't wear tires too quickly. Camber plus toe-in or toe-out wears tires like crazy. I've seen new tires shredded in a week from this.
 
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