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Old Opeler
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All Nylocks Now ..

I don't think a nylock is quite right for the job.

Jeff, All ball joints now seem to be fitted with nylock nuts these days - I guess some cost accountant figured it was cheaper to use them rather than 'castrated' nuts with split pin holes .....the danger is in re-using them after the nylon has been over the thread a couple of times.
A bit of Loctite Super Stud Lock makes sure they do not come undone!
 

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Well, the front suspension is all assembled and I reinstalled it on the car and it looks great. Though one very serious (I think it is) problem I have is the driver side sits 1/2" lower than the passenger side. Right now there is no interior in the car, or anything at all in the engine bay. I put the rear of the car up on jack stands on the jack points so I could be sure that wasn't altering the stance, no change. The spring perches are both in the same location, I have no idea where to go from here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Maybe when the engine is installed it will level out. The GT is very light without an engine. I would go ahead and put things together drive it a little and see if it's still not level.
 

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Jordan , When you tighten the LCA you will get diff. unloaded memory set and all this should settle after you have weight on this unit . HTH and Good luck
John
 

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Things will probably change when you put the rest of the car together.
It would be interesting to see what each corner of the car weighs right now.
With the engine out your front end has to be sitting quite high, when the engine is in your springs will be compressed some.
Also, how level is the the floor your measuring from? When we set up our race cars this is critical, you wouldn't believe how badly a non perfectly level floor will screw you up!
So hurry up and put the engine in, I want a report on the ride height with the lowering spring.
 

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Actually with the engine out and the lowering spring being used the front end is still much lower than stock even with an engine in. I of course still expect it to get lower yet with the engine in. The floor is as level and flat as concrete floors usually go 10" thick highest psi rated concrete available with fiberglass professionally poured.
 

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Any takers? Bob, you ever come across this one?
Yup, lots of times, but always with a 'loaded' car. Can be one of many things:

*Lower a-arm can be bent (binds front spring and creates a cross-weight issue)
*bolts on suspension are too tight (binds polyurethane). Stock torque specs, no more!
*bent sway bars (if you have them), creates a cross-weight issue
*one of the front spring upper pads is backwards
*broken rear coil spring, creates a cross-weight issue up front
*In odd instances, aftermarket gas shocks can be unevenly gas-charged. So if you have KYB Gas-a-justs, and one leaks the nitrogen out, you have 180 psi pushing on one shock, but no gas pressure on the other.

Bob
 

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Yup, lots of times, but always with a 'loaded' car. Can be one of many things:

*Lower a-arm can be bent (binds front spring and creates a cross-weight issue)
They both looked straight compared to eachother (I am quite sure they are fine)
*bolts on suspension are too tight (binds polyurethane). Stock torque specs, no more!
I torqued only to FSM specs
*bent sway bars (if you have them), creates a cross-weight issue
The front sway bar is not on again yet
*one of the front spring upper pads is backwards
I was very careful to get them in the correct positions and in the same bolt holes
*broken rear coil spring, creates a cross-weight issue up front
Lean still existed when rear suspension was isolated
*In odd instances, aftermarket gas shocks can be unevenly gas-charged. So if you have KYB Gas-a-justs, and one leaks the nitrogen out, you have 180 psi pushing on one shock, but no gas pressure on the other.
I don't have shocks on it yet

Bob
I also tried rocking the car, jacking it up and dropping it, I picked the front end up about 8 inches and dropped it, and then more rocking to try and the the spring to 'seat' I did not have any luck doing this.

In the pictures the high side is the passenger side and the low is of course the driverside.
 

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I have removed and installed my front spring using just a floor jack. With the car on jack stands put the floor jack under one side of the leaf spring and with the jack up just a bit and supporting the spring remove only that one side's eye bolt. Do not take off the control arms or try removing both eye bolts etc. Once the bolt is out lower the jack slowly and the spring releases it's tension and harmlessly hangs there and then you can remove the other eye. To reassemble, connect one sides eye bolt and raise the other side of the spring up with the floor jack until it's lined up with the lower control arm and install the eye bolt.
But always use caution when working with the spring.
 

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UngerDog
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comealong compressor

I used a little hand puller cable wench or comealong with a couple pieces of metal pipe and a piece of rope as my leaf spring compressor. They are only about $15. Jerry

First I attached one end of the leaf spring to the frame and the lower arm. The opposite arm was then bolted to the other end of the leaf spring. The comealong was used to pull the spring into up and into position so that the hinge bolt could be inserted at the base of the lower arm and suspension frame.

leaf install.jpg
 

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Very nice, simple effective solution to a tough problem.
 

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Front spring removal

PECJE - I have rebuilt a number of front suspensions and used the "Floor Jack Method" each time. :eek: I learned a few tricks that I think are good to know, if you're going to use this method.

First of all, you need to have the engine in the car, so you have enough weight to jack against. Then, you need to have the car high enough in the air (on jack stands) so the spring has enough travel to lose all of its tension and still allow you to be able to pull the floor jack out . For these reasons, I usually remove the spring and then the front suspension before removing the engine, if I'm going to go that far. Pretty elementary stuff, but still necessary.

Another tip given to me by a suspension guy, the car should be on the ground with the engine installed before you torque the suspension bolts for the last time. He called it "pre-loading".

Hope that's helpful.

Allen Gage :cool:
 

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For those who don't or can't have the engine in the car, I found that having the car on the trailer (where mine usually is) helps immensely. It gets the car up off the ground, it gives a solid flat surface to block it on, and I can chain the car down to it. My spring pack is so stiff that the weight of the engine doesn't work, the car still has to be tied down.
I think I've said before, spring work on a GT is really easy, just takes some common sense and CAUTION! Once you've done it a couple dozen times you can do it in half an hour. A bottle jack, some blocking (lots of little 2x4 and 2x6s) and some pry bars, small chains and boomers are what I use.
 

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Opeler
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Someone has listed this very nice spring compressor on ebay.

It's slightly different from a lot of the ones that I've seen.
Thanks for the nice word about my spring compressor, Phoenix.

I built this tool after trials and tribulations while trying to do the job without it. I tried jacking up the ends of the springs but the whole car rose. One of my first ideas was to cement steel eyelets into my garage floor in order to tie the car down while jacking up the eyelets of the springs. I gave that up when I realized that the jacks would have to be moved outward as the spring compressed and a friend asked what would happen should one of the floor eyelets let go? Would the car be launched into my office above? :)

Another discarded idea was to recruit two two-hundred-pound friends to sit on the fenders while I carried out the work. I almost had some volunteers when I offered to deliver pizza and German beer during the estimated two-day project but bathroom visits became an issue. :)

I miss my '71 GT (with polyurethane bushings) which I traded for an '82 924 several years ago. The tool looked good hanging on my garage wall but I decided recently that I'll probably never use it again and put it up on eBay. Besides, I still have a second three-inch "C" channel bar should I ever need to build another one.

Keep up the good work! Y'all have a great website!

Al
 
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