Dude, you can build these things using scrap around your garage in 20 min. I literaly designed and built my in one hour!!! And if you don't happen to have 1/2in threaded rod, 1/2in nuts, washers, and 6 ft of 1x2x1/8 tubing as scrap in your garage, you'll easily find it anywhere. Point is, just build it!! Hell you can even make it out of wood....
#2 - Remove the upper control arm and shock.. ( Yes I know this goes counter to other ways of doing it.. BUT the ratchet and the shock will technically be doing the same thing and the shock gets in the way. )
#3 - wrap the strap in the following way (NO Other way works well or felt safe..)
#4 - Ratchet down strap till arm is clear of the nuts.
It held the assembly tight and I was able to remove the nuts cleanly and safely. By tightening down the strap until it cleared the bolts.
After you remove the nuts.
#5 - While standing behind the assembly and to the side, release the strap.
#6 - THAT is not the dangerous part. This next part is, the strap will hold it together almost too well.. the "release" only released some of the stress.
While it looked like most of the stress was released it was not.
So I reached of from the back (with assembly on its side) and I took a BFH ( Big Fn' Hammer) and smacked the arm where the bolts come out and it released most of the rest of the stress.
Anyway.. Figured I would share as it worked for me and might help others doing this out of the car, or with limited tools. Personally when we pulled the suspension out ( which took all of 10 minutes ) It seemed easier to work with it out of the car than on jack stands ( As my garage does not have a lift.. )
Speaking of tension.. Told by more than a few putting the arm/spring back is a bigger PIA, and almost impossible without special tools or the suspension in the car.
Of course I found this a challenge.
AGAIN.. the following seemed safe and worked for us.. Your results may vary and I again I recommend extreme caution..
THIS HAD THE POTENTIAL TO BE VERY DANGEROUS.. if not debilitating.
EXTREME CAUTION SHOULD BE USED
This is a two person job ! You could try to do it yourself, but with the need for safety, it would not be recommended.
#1 - Place arm in spring and bolt spring eye into arm.
#2 - With #1 strap ( Not shown ), put hook in ball joint hole and wrap strap low. Be careful. its not quite a balanced way to get it tight. But putting it on the side (as shown below) at the start, when fully extended didnt work well.. So the 2 step process worked better. It also helped align the bolts into the arm later in the process. Again be very cautious and pay attention.
#3 - Place bolts into the suspension crossmember and tighten until the arm comes back a few inches.. and almost touches end of bolts.
#4 - Take second strap and place as shown in picture on left side (Use screw driver in mounting hole of crossmember to keep strap from slipping)
#5 - Tighten until it carried the stress
#6 - Carefully release strap #1
#7 - Reposition strap #1 to other side of control arm (Using screwdriver in other hole) and tighten to match Strap #2
#8 - Going back and forth between straps, bring spring towards cross member till you align bolts into arm and arm makes contact
#9 - Lightly tap bolts down, through the body and control arm, install control arm nuts and tighten.
#10 - Release straps..
Once we got it down.. took about 10 minutes to install the arm.
This is similar to viny above but slightly more complex.
With mine all you need is a piece of box section about 20 cm longer than the cars spring, say 40 cm x 40 cm and an old car scissor jack plus a small offcut of angle iron to make an L shaped piece. so practically all free and very strong as the threaded bar from the jack is made for lifting heavy cars.
This can be used off or on the car and is safe and simple to use and puts no stress on bolts or fittings. However some welding is required to build it plus a saw or grinder with a cutting disc.
Drill a hole through the middle of the 40 x 40 box or heavy angle iron could be used.
Cut apart the scissor jack, in half, or smaller use your discretion, and weld it to the box with the threaded bar part going through the hole in the box. at the end of the threaded bar is the bearing, from the other side of the jack, on to which you weld the fabricated L section that then slips in to and under the middle of the cart springs middle fitting.
Now when you screw up the jack end the spring contracts and can be safely removed and do the opposite to replace it
You have to make it based on the size of your jack, ie dont take half too literally
Heres a simple diagram
With this tool the spring can be completely removed from the suspension and then removed from the tool.
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here I go again (love that tune)
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