Here's what the compressor clamp has to attach to. It occurred to me that this is a "critical component". If the clamp fails, then the spring unloads, and the spring compressor becomes a high velocity projectile. Probably terminal!
Ooh. Cross bow. Graphic analogy. It isn't the power of the bow, as much as the travel. Arrow (or tension bolt) through the body...GTJIM said:Yes, once some tension is up on the front spring by the device the whole thing turns into a great big, very powerful, cross bow!
It is imperative that everything is strong enough and the threaded rod anchored immovably to the center of the spring.
If it lets go then then ...........
There was no particular reason the small pieces stuck out from the main beam, other than I welded the beam spacers on after I had cut the main beam to length, and found I could make it a bit longer. The maximum length of the beam is determined by the width between the brake backing plates with the leaf fully compressed. If it is too long, it won't fit between the backing plates (or rotors) and yet still contact the spring eyes. But if the beam spacer is too short (too wide a space in between), they fall off the spring-eyes as the spring expands.soybean said:The short piece of 2x2 tubing. I noticed it stuck out a little bit. Is this on purpose, and if so how much is sticking out? I had no idea how far it stuck out, so I made mine 1/2 inch longer each end than the beam. The puller itself, I noticed the jaws were held in place by two bolts. The Matco pitman arm puller only has one. Do you think that would be sufficient? The website you had listed was down for maintenance, so I couldn't find it listed. Was it very expensive? Matco and Snapon wanted an arm and a leg for theirs.Thanks, Jarrell
Indeed I did. The rubber spacers at the ends had perished somewhat, and instead of replacing them, I slid a sheet of teflon, approximately 1/16 inch thick, in between the leafs. I can't tell if it helped, as the front suspension clip is still on the floor. And the GT is still in the air...azopelnut said:Keith
When you rebuilt your from suspension did you put any material (teflon?) between the leaf springs?? I understand it makes a big difference
Winter so far has been mild and late. Hardly any snow in them thar mountains and not enough cold weather in the far north to freeze up the muskeg to allow the winter drilling to get started.azopelnut said:How are things in the great north? Most of your fellow Canadians seem to be wintering down here in Yuma.
The key is really the "puller". I like the one shown, because it has a set of cross-bolts that actively clamp it to the leaf clamp. But be sure to grind the puller's edges a bit so that it slips right under the leaf clamp. If the puller lets go, it won't be a pretty picture!jordan said:still looks mighty dangerous, does any one have any ideas for further safetys or anything to prevent an impaling?
I can check this weekend, but I am pretty sure the 2 x 2 tubing I used was 0.125" wall thickness (wt). For sure the 0.250" (1/4") wt is over-kill. I suspect that what you have is actually 0.095" wt, which I am using as the length-wise tie bar for my GT body rotisserie. I would be a bit hesitant as I have already seen how easy it is to deform. The problem won't be "bending strength", but rather "crush strength" at the load points. You will at least need to used a very large thick washer or metal plate at the threaded rod hole, and possibly also at the ends where the bars contact the A-arms.That's a good point, anyone else have an opinion on the subject? Anyone strongly against the use of .100"?