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The fuel gauge in my '69 Kadett always read a bit high since I bought the car in Seattle. On the drive back to Texas, I ran out of gas at 2:30AM in Boise, ID, because the gauge indicated even higher when the lights were on . . . AND I didn't realize that the Kadett only had a 10.3 gallon tank, not a 13.4 gallon tank like my GTs.

The gauge would also fluctuate when the turn signal was on, but I fixed that when I got back to Texas by running a separate ground to the windshield wiper motor case . . . instrument ground in a Kadett and a common problem after 35 years. With that, I did what probably everyone else would, just "allowed" for it.

About a two weeks ago, the gauge went to maximum after fill-up . . . even higher than "normal". Problem was that it no longer dropped along with the actual fuel level in the tank. THEN, the two short hoses (still original pieces) at the fuel pump started leaking, which I didn't notice at first because it would evaporate on the ground. Ran out of gas again . . . luckily just two houses up the street from mine this time. Fixed hoses and determined to fix gauge.

Gauge problem was suspiciously similar to a problem I had with my GT fuel gauge, caused by a corroded ground on the sender. Familiar territory, I thought. Drained tank and removed it to get to the fuel sender unit. Once sender was removed, checked it for function with ohmmeter. Turns out, NOT a corroded ground problem, but a corroded gauge terminal spade lug, the other side of the resistive element.

Always seems to be the little things, doesn't it?!!! Validates that BOTH sides of the resistive element in the sender must have good, clean contact for a "complete" electrical circuit though!
 

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Ain't it the truth, Otto. 90% of the time it will be a ground because all those circuits go to common grounds through out the car. Then there's that 10% that will drive you looney toons trying to find it. When a circuit starts going flakey, you just gotta check both sides and all four ends. :confused:
 
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