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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The last time I cleaned my fuel filter I found quite a bit of rust. So I reasoned the fuel tank must be rusting inside and pulled it out to get it tanked and lined, thinking this would end my problem.

Now, I'm having second thoughts, and think maybe I'll just have it hot tanked
and not lined.

I asked the radiator shop how they lined the tank, and it seems all they do is pour some yellow paint like substance in there and slosh it around a while and pour it out, wanting $85 for it.

Somehow I'm not impressed with the procedure.

Will the lining stay in there and not dissolve sooner or later and give me more problems than rust ?

Your thoughts are invited.
 

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KBS gas tank sealer

I have the fuel tank out of my 1967 Kadett prior to the car being painted and did some searching on fuel tank coating products. If you go to the KBS home page they explain what their product does. Even cooler is a 4 part video on how to use the product. After watching the video it takes the "mystery" and thus the fear of the unknown, out of tackeling the job. I feel like I've already done the job even though I've just now ordered the product. Very straight forward 3 step process. Neat thing is, since my Kadett is only a 10.6 gallon tank, the kit for "Large Motor Cycle Tanks- up to 12 gallons" will more than cover the job, and costs only $39.00 (+ $8 shipping) rather than the $54 for the standard kit.
My tank seemed in pretty good shape but don't like the idea of a "suitcase" full of gasoline in the trunk to begin with, and even less if it's a leaky one, down the road!
 

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Redoing the tank

I just recently redid a tank using a Hirsch tank sealer. I found when looking into it that the various tank treatment all get different reviews so I had a little trouble deciding which to use and which might hold up best.
 

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531 Posts
I think the products are all similar; I used Eastman, my friend used the POR. I did notice that they both stink (you want to do this outside!) and take a long time to stop off-gassing and fully dry.

JMTCW,

jtb
 

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Bad Timing by the Cosmos

Well, Ya can't win all the time. End of June, I religiously cleaned, etched, and sealed my GT's tank with the KBS system. I let the tank fully dry after each step, at least a day, plus with the help of a shop vac exhaust, and rolled the sealer around for the allotted time before setting it to rest and leaving for vacation in the early morn. Due to family illness and passing, I finally got back to the project to find the sending unit would not fit properly. In the depression where the sender sits, there was a build-up of around 1/4" of sealer. I tossed around the idea of milling a spacer out of aluminum and setting the sender up a bit, but decided to "clearance" the area below the sender. Soon enough, I broke through the "crust" of the sealer and found uncured sealer below it from a month ago. Not the fault of the manufacturer, but I stumbled into a small mess. I will clear out the lose crusty stuff, but if you decide to do this, do yourself a favor and let the tank sit and drain with the bottom up and tilted away from the vents. That way any excess sealer that may build up, will not give you the problem I'm having. BTW, I poured out over 3/4 of the sealer for the 12 gallon kit back out. Man,.... my tank was clean and rust free before I started. Sometimes I think I should just get it runnin and have fun......Thanks for listening, yer pal Chuck:veryhappy
 

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I used the KBS system also, twice. I coated the tank in my teams Opel with it. Deaconblues010266 is not kidding, there is plenty of excess when done. I used a second kit of the same stuff to do two tanks from a Scout 800A. I acutally painted the out side of one of the scout tanks with the left over material. Also I used a tap to clean out the threads that the sealer cleaned over.

I have not used any other product, but I would like to say that this stuff worked well.
 
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