Gauge Sheet Metal
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this is intriguing, what if i took the patch metal and slid it behind the existing sheet metal and tacked it in and fill in the recessed gap with kitty hair fiberglass body fill? or should i just stitch weld it, if I stitch weld what are some good tips and techniques and welder settings (like those wouldn't varie or anything?
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I had to repair the same spot, I used 16g sheet that I had around. But I would recommend thinner as it would be easier to shape. Also, I only have a flux-core welder, but I think welding thin sheet is supposed to be easier with MIG. The flux-core can spatter and I've had trouble with burn-thru - still learning!
Bob
Bob
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hi the best way i was taught (im a fabricator/welder) is to put a joggle in the wing (you can pick up a hand jogglerfor a small amount of $$$) then drill holes in your patch which you trim to fit in the recess and then plug weld through the holes,grind flat,and then skim with body filler and sand down ,prime and paint
ps to deal with splatter try anti splatter spray allaround the weld area then give a good washdown with detergent as it may have some silicon in it and that don't mix with the paint
ps to deal with splatter try anti splatter spray allaround the weld area then give a good washdown with detergent as it may have some silicon in it and that don't mix with the paint
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repairing sheet metal
the way alot of body shops do it and i do it is to use
an acytelen torch and braze weld in the holes. it is
a softer metal which means easier sanding and less work
really. its very easy to do if u have an aceytlane torch and
a flange/punch tool. currently i am working on the back
passengers side corner. po had fixed due to rust
but was a [email protected] job so it rusted again.
the way alot of body shops do it and i do it is to use
an acytelen torch and braze weld in the holes. it is
a softer metal which means easier sanding and less work
really. its very easy to do if u have an aceytlane torch and
a flange/punch tool. currently i am working on the back
passengers side corner. po had fixed due to rust
but was a [email protected] job so it rusted again.
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169 Posts
I need to repair the rear passenger fender too. Both the outer and inner fenders are rusted. I'm not sure how I will be able to repair the inner fender. Should I repair the outer hole and just try to rust proof the inner fender? Actually there is quite a bit of old bondo under the paint, so I will probably be cutting away more of the fender than I first realized.
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When I do patch repair on my opels I ALWAYS use metal from a scrap car that I have. You can get metal from any part of a parts car and it will be the right gauge, plus it is really easy to shape, I have been making some patches for my current car and I will post them in a few weeks when I get home.
I need to get one of those mig welders though. I am sick of using flux core.
I need to get one of those mig welders though. I am sick of using flux core.
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Oh I forgot to mention, the main reason I use metal from a scrap car is that it is the right kind of metal, if you use the wrong kind of metal for a patch it will corrode very quickly where the two pieces of metal meet. Someone used the wrong kind of metal to repair a GT that I have and it ruined the body, it rusted at the seam of the weld way before where it would normally rust.
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metal
i would try and find the exact peice u need off anthor opel and use that as ur metal. that is what i am doing i have a donor gt that i just cut out the exact area i need and then plus some then take my flanging tool so it slides right in then take the air punch and make holes about evry 2 inches or so then clamp in and braze weld the holes make sure u either go cross ways when welding or just make sure not to heat the maetal to much or itll warp and that sucks.
i would try and find the exact peice u need off anthor opel and use that as ur metal. that is what i am doing i have a donor gt that i just cut out the exact area i need and then plus some then take my flanging tool so it slides right in then take the air punch and make holes about evry 2 inches or so then clamp in and braze weld the holes make sure u either go cross ways when welding or just make sure not to heat the maetal to much or itll warp and that sucks.
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well now im really pissed off! i tried welding the other side first and really messed it up! it kept on burning through even on the lowest setting on the welder. and then when i had enough i ripped the patch out with a claw hammer and crinkled up the metal surrounding it. I have decided to fiberglass it, any good ways or tips or kits would be appriciated.
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yeah don't use fiberglass,
The car that I am repairing right now had been fiberglassed by the previous owner, and no matter how good of a job that you do, it will end up rusting the metal worse in the long run. What happens is that where the fiberglass covers the good metal, water will get between it and the good metal and trap the water there, causing it to rust even worse.
Are you using a Mig(gas) welder or a Mig(flux core) welder?
The car that I am repairing right now had been fiberglassed by the previous owner, and no matter how good of a job that you do, it will end up rusting the metal worse in the long run. What happens is that where the fiberglass covers the good metal, water will get between it and the good metal and trap the water there, causing it to rust even worse.
Are you using a Mig(gas) welder or a Mig(flux core) welder?
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I just purchased a Hobart 115VAC mig welder with gas (CO2/Argon) off the internet. This works great with the sheet stock - very little splatter - just takes a while to get the right feed on the .030 wire.
As far as welding in patch panels - the best way is to use a flange and make a weld on both sides. If you're never really going to see it, a simple overlap will do. But if you can't get to the backside for welding - Eastwood has these great little clamps that allow you to make butt welds. Only have to weld one side. Of course you still should put something on the backside to prevent corrosion.
Chris is right - fiberglass is not the way to go.
I'm doing a complete refurb on my 72 and have a lot of welding to do. Fortunately I have a spare car carcass I can cut metal from.
As far as welding in patch panels - the best way is to use a flange and make a weld on both sides. If you're never really going to see it, a simple overlap will do. But if you can't get to the backside for welding - Eastwood has these great little clamps that allow you to make butt welds. Only have to weld one side. Of course you still should put something on the backside to prevent corrosion.
Chris is right - fiberglass is not the way to go.
I'm doing a complete refurb on my 72 and have a lot of welding to do. Fortunately I have a spare car carcass I can cut metal from.
sheet metal
If you happen to have a van converter near you they will more than likley give you the sheet metal that is left when they install windows.I used to have a man that would pick up the metal we had left over.he restored old cars and would use it for patching.he even would take the metal roofs when we would install a fiberglass top.
If you happen to have a van converter near you they will more than likley give you the sheet metal that is left when they install windows.I used to have a man that would pick up the metal we had left over.he restored old cars and would use it for patching.he even would take the metal roofs when we would install a fiberglass top.
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