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Patrick, it is possible to get the front windshield out and reuse the rubber. The problem is if the rubber gasket for the windshield is original it is going to crack when it goes back in. Also the "gutter" that hold the chrome strip around the windshield may already be damaged to the point that it will not hold the chrome strip. The gasket isn't cheap, but well worth the money. When putting it back in, use 3/8" rope. The guys at the glass shop put min in for 35 dollars. They use a thicker rope than I did, and that was why I couldn'g get it in right. So if you are doing it yourself I would recommend 3/8 inch nylon rope for the installation. Or be a sissy like me and pay someone to do it.

Bob
It is a wise man who knows his own limitations! Old proverb from someone, somewhere, sometime! (If not, put my name on it!):yup:

Doug
 

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To get the windshield out, can the rubber gasket be reused? Do you just pull it out or is it bonded in? I found how to's for removing the windshield.


if its a good screen then dont try to push it out. just u a long craft knife .
carefully cut the outer seal off then the window is easy to remove stress free.
i have new gt rubber now but for years i used ford fiesta, lots of cars fit and if you use a couple of seals you can get the size and shape and use super glue for the corners. super glue is the thing it glues rubber the very best. except fingers
if you use the old one then sealer will definately been needed.
a good new one shouldnt need it
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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2,881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #245 ·
Well, some good news.

The EinScan-SE I purchased arrived this weekend and I've been working with it. It has its own learning curve, I have to learn how the machine processes information to try and get the best scans possible. Black objects don't really work well for scanning with this machine, this is a problem many 3D scanners have. Black is technically the presence of no light, so if you're trying to find the distance of a black object using light this can be a problem. So, I'll need to pick up a color to spray paint my vents, I'll probably use a matte color.

I've been using a CIH cam gear as a test object, and I've been learning a lot about what is needed for what is actually a difficult object to scan. Sprockets are very symmetrical, which can confuse the machine when trying to align different scans. Sometimes the machine gets this backwards. I've also learned the cables are rather touchy. It's pretty easy to accidentally kill power or disconnect the USB cable from the computer.

But, this is all small things in learning the device. I'm extremely happy with it and I know, given some time to learn how to best use this machine, I'll be able to scan the vents. I don't have a suitable spray paint right now, and I'll do some research first on what color to use. I know a mesh can always be smoothed out later.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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2,881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Well, I don't like resorting to a public attempt at communication but I can't get seem to get a reply from Dieter. Back in May, I shipped my vents to Dieter when he offered to help scan them. He couldn't get them scanned in May, which was fine. But throughout June and July I haven't been able to reach Dieter, the few times I've messaged him. I just want to know what the current status is, and if needed, just ship them back to me (which I'll happily pay for). I recently figured out a better way to scan objects with my own 3D scanner, which should help with any scanning I do. So, I would just like an update but the 3 attempts to reach Dieter have gone unanswered during the past 2 months.
 

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Opeler
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951 Posts
Anyone have a good process for repairing old vents and making them aesthetically appealing? I'm not concerned with re-engineering the air flow. I want to replace my dash and want to do everything at once. Been holding off a couple of years now.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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2,881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #248 ·
If you just want to repair the ones you have, you could coat them with a urethane epoxy and then sand them smooth. Smooth On would be be a good source, you could even get a black epoxy. Just brush it on, let it cure and then sand & polish. Would look fairly stock.
 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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I am very sorry about the delay. Just when I got the vents, my CMM Engineer had to travel to Japan, and after his return had to save the world about every day. Sometimes twice. I gave up my last hope this Tuesday, when he promised at his mother's grave to get them done, and when I went down to his lab I was told that he had to save the world two States over this week.
The parts are back in the mail to NM by today. No need to send money for the shipment, I feel ashamed enough already.
I apologize that I couldn't get them done.

Dieter
 
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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
Joined
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2,881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #250 ·
I am very sorry about the delay. Just when I got the vents, my CMM Engineer had to travel to Japan, and after his return had to save the world about every day. Sometimes twice. I gave up my last hope this Tuesday, when he promised at his mother's grave to get them done, and when I went down to his lab I was told that he had to save the world two States over this week.
The parts are back in the mail to NM by today. No need to send money for the shipment, I feel ashamed enough already.
I apologize that I couldn't get them done.

Dieter
Dieter,

Thanks for letting me know. I understand things get busy. I just got a little worried and frustrated trying to get in touch. I don’t hold any of this against you, you were willing to try and help. I appreciate that. Getting the scanning done, with useful scans has been very difficult. I’m not upset with you and you really don’t need to be ashamed. I wish I would have been able to get everything done and made quicker than this project has been moving. I feel really bad that people want this, and I can’t deliver yet.

Thanks for the help Dieter.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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2,881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #251 ·
Well, I finally have something to update this thread with. I’ll start by saying I’m sorry this has been a very slow project. I’m trying to make headway on it now.

I just dropped off the vents with a local company who has access to a handheld scanner. I believe a handheld scanner is needed. The guy, Lance, also has more experience with 3D scanning than I do. So we’re going to see how things move forward with reverse engineering a CAD model. This is the hardest part of this, because the vents are a very complex shape. Some of it absolutely has to be scanned properly or you’ll spend a hell of a lot of time trying to get it right by hand. He also has access to other software that should help. I’ll update again when we have an idea of what this will take.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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15,879 Posts
Here's my idea. The oem vents were designed by French wackadoodles and are ridiculously long at 14"-16" long, even though the hose inlet is only 2" or so wide. The too-short dispersal vanes inside the vent need to extend all the way into the 2" or so vent inlet and curve to meet the existing vanes in order to properly grab an even share of the air entering the vent and disperse it evenly 7"-8" to each side. The whole design is crapp. Vintage Air makes a highly effective vent that disperses the air evenly over windshields much larger than ours. I've used them for years and they are incredibly effective. They are well made and readily available. You just need to adapt them to work on our dashes. Most people want new dash vents because they are all nasty and erroded at the top of the dash and the dash vinyl has shrunk back, NOT because they don't work. A black painted metal or plastic plate with a 14" curving slot that covers over the vent opening and the shrunken vinyl would fix this problem and for most folks that would get the job done.

As my drawing below shows, you can fix the unsightly vent area at the top of the dash AND make the defrost function work more effectively by making a 2-plate design that sandwiches the dash and utilizes the dash's built in bolts to hold everything on and together. The bottom plate would have a slot big enough that the Vintage Air 4" vent can pass through it and be bolted to the top plate. Other bolt holes in the top and bottom plates mount the plates to the dash and to each other.

The beauty of this concept is that all you have to do is make the 2 plates and buy the excellent VA vents. You could 3D print the plates if you want to use the gee-whiz technology. Decent sheet metal would stand the test of time and durability better, though. Paint them black and they'll blend with the dash and not be noticable. The additional pics below show me using the VA 4" vents and the cover plates they sell for them in my custom dashes.

Rectangle Line Parallel Font Slope


Rectangle Font Handwriting Auto part Fashion accessory


Hood Motor vehicle Sports equipment Automotive design Automotive lighting
Tire Grille Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle


Hood Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive tire Denim
 
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