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· OPEL-LESS!!!
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how much is the lenk console? i personally think the shifters too far forward for comfort as i'm so tall and lanky i gotta have the seat quite far back for leg room, and then arms about all the way extended for the shifter it seems.
 

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Jared;
The last time I talked with Greg (or was it Gary?) Lenk, the price for the 5-spd console was 118 euros. They have a picture of it on their site
 

· OPEL-LESS!!!
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it'd pry be 200 or more by time it got to the US. probably be much cheaper and easier to just mod the shifter.
 

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Didn't you look back in this thread . . . to my post #16? :confused:
Ok, this is probably a dumb question(s). Having gotten tired of fooling around with an engine, I started on the Getrag conversion as per Ottos instructions above. I made it through step 1 making mistakes as I went.
The questions I have now before I start welding are.
I am a 1/4" back as per the instructions.
Do I need to cut more off the bracket? picture 1
Is there supposed to be the gap shown in side view of the cut off bracket below? picture 2
The left side (Drivers side) gap can be "weaved" in with the welding. Will it interfere with the top of the opening in the tunnel? picture 3
I am centered over the linkage when I lined it all up over the transmission with the bolt installed. picture 4
So am I still headed in the right direction, or have I already messed up? Thanks, Jarrell
 

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Jarrell;
Actually , you haven't really messed up at all. Like you said, the open spaces can be filled with weld, the key thing was making sure the socket was a 1/4" back from the front. You're good to go. :D
 

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Don't forget about the tilt of the engine and tranny, the piece you cut out has to be welded in about 1/8" out of level to the bracket that attaches to the transmission, otherwise the stick will not be straight up in the car. You could bend the stick, but I didn't want to heat mine so I chose the method I just described. I made this mistake when I did mine and I had to cut it apart and redo it. I also shortened the stick by cutting it off and used a die to thread it so that my shift knob screws on, and then it is set with a setscrew to keep it from turning. It is now a much better height, and will be shorter throw to boot. I just remembered that I think you can also adjust for the engine tilt by paying attention to how the ball on the rod is welded to the rod and yoke that attaches to the tranny shifting shaft. I welded mine straight, which is what caused the problem for me.
 

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Is there a crack in the bottom of the shifter ball socket? (Picture 3).
It sure does look like it when blown up. I didn't see one when I was working on it, but I will look closely when I get down to the shed in the morning. I was working with overhead halogens and might not have picked it up. Even with glasses on.:sigh:


Don't forget about the tilt of the engine and tranny, the piece you cut out has to be welded in about 1/8" out of level to the bracket that attaches to the transmission, otherwise the stick will not be straight up in the car. You could bend the stick, but I didn't want to heat mine so I chose the method I just described. I made this mistake when I did mine and I had to cut it apart and redo it. I also shortened the stick by cutting it off and used a die to thread it so that my shift knob screws on, and then it is set with a setscrew to keep it from turning. It is now a much better height, and will be shorter throw to boot. I just remembered that I think you can also adjust for the engine tilt by paying attention to how the ball on the rod is welded to the rod and yoke that attaches to the tranny shifting shaft. I welded mine straight, which is what caused the problem for me.
Gene Smith reminded me of just the same thing about the ball on the end on the rod. On the Mantas it would be straight, but the Gts have to tilt. I also like the idea of shortening the stick. How much did you cut off?

Thanks for the help and I'll keep you posted on my progress. I'm all eyes and ears for advice on this one. This is the first one I've done. Jarrell
 

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This is my shifter, naturally I still have it available, since I don't have a car to put it in :banghead: . Dimensions included. Please do not critique my welds as it was before I had the gas running on my mig at home, and the flux core wire was not the right thing to use for this thin material :no: .
 

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Jeff, it looks good to me. I see where you tilted it too. Thanks for the pictures and the dimensions. I still have to clean everything up before I start welding. I just started cutting as per step 1 yesterday. I don't think I'll make it to the shed for long, if at all today as the weather is calling for ice and freezing rain.:banghead: You must have posted while I was messaging you. Thanks for the help. I'm sure Ill be asking more questions as this progress's.
Jarrell
 

· Old Opeler
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Right Angle ..

One way to get the shift lever at the correct angle - as long as you have the motor/gbox and motor mounting cross member out on the shop floor.

Set up the motor on the cross member down on the floor with the gearbox attached and just use a builders square to check that the shift lever is straight up and down before fully re-welding it.
 

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You know I am at the same point on my getrag.My problem is I have an ARA console.I was told to bend my shifter to the left to compensate for the tilt and console.I will have to try it on the floor first.Then dry fit I guess. It's funny how a wet blanket can ruin any party.
 

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update

This is where I made it to yesterday. After cleaning everything up, I made a crosspiece to keep the bracket from moving while welding. pic 3
Pic 2 shows the welding cleaned up.
Pic 1 shows the assembly installed back on the transmission
I'm stopped here until I can get the transmission mated to the engine.

Question. The 5 speed transmission came with a ball stud installed on it. Will this ball stud work or will it need to be changed out to the longer stud, as there is an S-10 clutch already installed on the engine with a regular bellhousing for the 4 speed transmission. Thanks, Jarrell
 

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This is where I made it to yesterday. After cleaning everything up, I made a crosspiece to keep the bracket from moving while welding. pic 3
Pic 2 shows the welding cleaned up.
Pic 1 shows the assembly installed back on the transmission
I'm stopped here until I can get the transmission mated to the engine.

Question. The 5 speed transmission came with a ball stud installed on it. Will this ball stud work or will it need to be changed out to the longer stud, as there is an S-10 clutch already installed on the engine with a regular bellhousing for the 4 speed transmission. Thanks, Jarrell
Jarrell;
As for the shifter with the S-10 clutch, you won't have to change a thing, there's an area on the bellhousing the will have to be ground down for clearence. You'll have to search the site for that, but, that's the only thing you're looking at now. In fact, this is what I meant. Follow this link, and click on the yellow highlighted area of the bellhousing.
Getrag 240 Mods
 

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Jarrell;
As for the shifter with the S-10 clutch, you won't have to change a thing. Follow this link, and click on the yellow highlighted area of the bellhousing.
Getrag 240 Mods
Gene, That's what I'm working from. I'm here on that page. http://tekenaar.opelgt.com/getrag/images/getrag_shiftrod.jpg
I am going to pull it out of the crate tomorrow so I can get a better look see at the U link. I can't see from the top how to get to the U link and disconnect it from the rest of the transmission. I have another member who needs some pictures, so it will be on the bench tomorrow. The wind chill Fri is forcast to be be 8 degrees, so it looks like Fri is going to be a freeze out. Even with a 210,000 Btu Heater running.:banghead: Jarrell
 
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