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The pulley is from the original Opel alternator.
It does look like the pulley on my alternator, is your alternator smaller physically than the Bosch? That would explain the confusion. In any case if it is only the fan that is hitting I would try to locate a smaller one or cut yours down. I like that the tab is clocked as the original, were you able to use the original upper adjuster?
 

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There's something odd about the fan in your pic. It looks as though, in places, it appears to be larger than the housing of the alt. I think I ground the tips of my fan off by eye with an angle grinder on my bench, then to make sure the fan was balanced I held a file or maybe the grinder near the fan blades as it spun with the engine running and got them all evenly balanced.
That's one of them thar optical delusions. The fan blades are all the same length and all are within the perimeter of the alternator housing.
 

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It does look like the pulley on my alternator, is your alternator smaller physically than the Bosch? That would explain the confusion. In any case if it is only the fan that is hitting I would try to locate a smaller one or cut yours down. I like that the tab is clocked as the original, were you able to use the original upper adjuster?
I can't compare sizing of the alternators, since I gave my Opel ones to other Opelers. The pulley diameter is approx. 2 7/8".
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Here's some more pics:

Alt bracket mod (1).jpg Alt bracket mod (2).jpg Alt bracket mod (3).jpg Alt bracket mod (4).jpg Alt bracket mod (5).jpg Opel 2.5 engine photo shoot (15).jpg Opel 2.5 engine photo shoot (16).jpg Opel 2.5 engine photo shoot (17).jpg

If you look close at the ends of the fan blades you can see that I ground them down a little. No more than 1/8" I'm sure. I also ground/sanded down the "knobs" on the lower bracket for additional clearance. FYI, I'm using a small crankshaft/large water pump pulley set up, mainly to improve the angle of the fan belt so that it doesn't hit the lower bracket knob. This pulley combo also improves the efficiency of the water pump by making it turn a little slower, thereby letting the water linger a tad longer in the engine to absorb more heat.
 

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I can't compare sizing of the alternators, since I gave my Opel ones to other Opelers. The pulley diameter is approx. 2 7/8".
Yeah, my pulley is that size. That's anuther one of them thar optical delusions. :yup: I am looking at a cs130 alternator from 88-90 Camaro that is almost identical. The CS series are supposed to be a newer, more efficient version. If it's smaller and lighter than the original so much the better. Is there any problem wiring one of these up? Would be nice to convert to multirib belt to prevent slippage. Does anyone have pulleys for that?
 

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Here's some more pics:

View attachment 339017 View attachment 339025 View attachment 339033 View attachment 339041 View attachment 339049 View attachment 339057 View attachment 339065 View attachment 339073

If you look close at the ends of the fan blades you can see that I ground them down a little. No more than 1/8" I'm sure. I also ground/sanded down the "knobs" on the lower bracket for additional clearance. FYI, I'm using a small crankshaft/large water pump pulley set up, mainly to improve the angle of the fan belt so that it doesn't hit the lower bracket knob. This pulley combo also improves the efficiency of the water pump by making it turn a little slower, thereby letting the water linger a tad longer in the engine to absorb more heat.
Thanks for the pics Scifi Guy, I remember some of them from another thread. It looks like you have the same alternator I show in my previous post. Now I see that the clocking of the upper mounting ear is more towards 9 o-clock than the Opel, so you had to make that little bracket. I like that reduction sleeve for the lower bolt versus reaming out the Opel bushings. I guess there isn't a way to use the oe upper bracket unless someone can rebuild a Bosch to 105 amps. I know most won't need that high an output but I plan on putting fuel injection, electric fan and electric power steering so it is going to be necessary.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I had(and still have) the toothed pulleys. I took them off because they were noisy and there was a lot of slop between the teeth. The nice thing about them is that you don't have to have any tension on the belt at all. Some Opelers have discovered that if they make their V-belts too tight to prevent slippage and squealing, this skews or pulls on the crankshaft pulley which causes oil to creep by the front seal. This causes a spray of oil on your hood and engine.

The pics DO show the mod that allows you to use the oem upper bracket. You have to make an offset extension piece that lifts the bracket so that it doesn't touch the fan blades. You have to use 2 bolts in the bracket slot so that it doesn't pivot.

I got the brass tube, to shim the bolt diameter difference on the SI's lower bracket bolt hole, from my local ACE hardware store in their craft metal/small tubing display rack. I still have the leftover tubing, I could send a few 3" long pieces to folks who need it.
 

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Opel Key Master
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A couple things....

I opt to just get rid of the rubber bushings, and turn aluminum press fit ones into the original brackets
I also do this for the top OEM arm. Every other factory alternator setup I have seen is solid, so I'm not sure why Opel used rubber isolators, but as soon as you tighten those down, they flex back. And you do not get a good ground through them, so why not eliminate them?
Also I find that the hole in the timing cover is too big of a diameter, so I found a piece of drill rod through McMaster Carr that is a good press fit in that hole, and I drill a 5/16 hole in it to take out the slop of the hole. I was finding that the bolt would move side to side a bit and mess up the adjustment. I provide this with the A/C kits including a factory bracket modified for this.
 

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Opel Key Master
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Also Gordo, isn't your alternator a CS130, not a SI? The ribbed spacer and offset of the mounts I think it is, but I'm not used to seeing a positive terminal on the back like yours has. I would just have added some welds to the chrome F Bracket, and then grind the lower part of the upper bracket for fan clearance, no? Here is a pic of the upper bushings I make
 

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I had(and still have) the toothed pulleys. I took them off because they were noisy and there was a lot of slop between the teeth. The nice thing about them is that you don't have to have any tension on the belt at all. Some Opelers have discovered that if they make their V-belts too tight to prevent slippage and squealing, this skews or pulls on the crankshaft pulley which causes oil to creep by the front seal. This causes a spray of oil on your hood and engine.

The pics DO show the mod that allows you to use the oem upper bracket. You have to make an offset extension piece that lifts the bracket so that it doesn't touch the fan blades. You have to use 2 bolts in the bracket slot so that it doesn't pivot.

I got the brass tube, to shim the bolt diameter difference on the SI's lower bracket bolt hole, from my local ACE hardware store in their craft metal/small tubing display rack. I still have the leftover tubing, I could send a few 3" long pieces to folks who need it.
I meant multi-rib not toothed pulleys. Like these:

This picture is from Kieth's thread

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-g...restoration-taken-extreme-logbook-file-5.html
 

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A couple things....

I opt to just get rid of the rubber bushings, and turn aluminum press fit ones into the original brackets
I also do this for the top OEM arm. Every other factory alternator setup I have seen is solid, so I'm not sure why Opel used rubber isolators, but as soon as you tighten those down, they flex back. And you do not get a good ground through them, so why not eliminate them?
Also I find that the hole in the timing cover is too big of a diameter, so I found a piece of drill rod through McMaster Carr that is a good press fit in that hole, and I drill a 5/16 hole in it to take out the slop of the hole. I was finding that the bolt would move side to side a bit and mess up the adjustment. I provide this with the A/C kits including a factory bracket modified for this.
I suppose a lot of the breakage problems would go away if the upper rubber was replaced along with using the F-bracket, even incorporating a rear brace like suggested earlier. I haven't got to the end of the build thread yet but do you have any plans to make those multi-rib pulleys Kieth? It doesn't have to be serpentine with idlers and tensioner, just use the factory adjustment method.
 

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Opel Key Master
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I suppose a lot of the breakage problems would go away if the upper rubber was replaced along with using the F-bracket, even incorporating a rear brace like suggested earlier. I haven't got to the end of the build thread yet but do you have any plans to make those multi-rib pulleys Kieth? It doesn't have to be serpentine with idlers and tensioner, just use the factory adjustment method.
The cost was too much for the serpentine pulleys, then some drawbacks came with the setup as well. Not just that, but the brackets were pricey too. I liked the idea, but when the engine parts cost more than my complete air conditioning system running a V-belt setup...I had to come up with a new plan.
 

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SI is old tech. I put a 105 amp CS130 on my Kadett with zero problems. Using the original lower bracket with a bit of old trans cooler tube as a sleeve over the bolt to bring up the OD, and a universal upper bracket bent and drilled to fit. There is an application of the CS130 with a v-belt which is what I used.
 

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Me? I was building my car for the LeMons Rally. I needed power for my Megasquirt, fuel pump, e-fan, stereo, CB, crock pot, laptop and phone charging, etc.

Also I wanted a modern, internally regulated, readily available, and reasonably priced component.
 

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Me? I was building my car for the LeMons Rally. I needed power for my Megasquirt, fuel pump, e-fan, stereo, CB, crock pot, laptop and phone charging, etc.
Yuck,yuck
I hate it when my butt warmer's won't get up to temp. when racing.
 

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Yuck,yuck
I hate it when my butt warmer's won't get up to temp. when racing.
That might be accurate if I ever do one of their winter rallies.
 
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