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Gosh Gordon, you've thought of everything, needed to make it more modern dash... Gps Radio, Electronics, wow Power everything..... Power Steering Too??.Doing A Great Job.. (y) Modding that's what you Do :)
Mr. Modifications
Did you ever think about fitting a Front Air Bag too,,
was just thinking That and awesome dash, your making, just Hope you never have to kiss it one day ,,that would really hurt,, .. Just thinking safety too into your build, respectfully, LQQKS Good so far,,
No Alligator's were killed in this build??? :rolleyes:
 
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I do like the round wood trim, it seems to really go with the Banana theme. It’s got me curious now to see how it works in with the rest of the car. Nice touch.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
You won't see that wood bull nose, it will get covered with upholstery. I felt the need to put something/anything over the edge of the sheet metal, so that it doesn't act like a guillotine in a crash. I did the same to my previous dash. This time around I was considering rubber hose, but part of the function of the wood is to give the dash top some stiffness and structure, so I opted to go with the wood again. If I get pissed off at my fellow drivers and punch the dash board, I don't want to get it all bent up.

These pictures from my previous dash show the wood it has in it and the beginning of the padding and upholstery process:
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
After looking at my pictures above, I decided that I didn't have enough leftover foam from my previous dash to make all the pieces without combining individual scraps, so I just bought another 24"x72" roll.

 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
I also have to install a new headliner and do the upholstery in the rest of the car and I know that I will use lots of tubes of "Goop" adhesive, so I just bought a whole box of 12 tubes:


P.S. I also apply little dabs of Goop to the pivots of the piano hinge brackets that I use to hold the dash together and to the car to dampen any vibrations or rattles. I also use nylon insert lock nuts wherever possible to prevent any of the nuts and bolts from unscrewing. Some nut/bolts can't be tightened after being covered with upholstery.
 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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Wow, a wooden GT! Is it getting the woodie exterior vinyl as well?

Dieter
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ha! I'm going to go with a "wood texture" exterior and glue tooth pics all over the outside. Ha!

🤪
 

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I don't think you could fit it behind the center dash
Somehow it's never occurred to me that, since I don't have an engine, I'm not bound by the constraint of the shape of the engine bay.

If I wanted to, I could steal a toaster-sized section out of the engine bay, right behind the center console, and put my heater box there if I wanted. Save all the silly hose-work.

You're a curse on completion Gordo. Every time you work on something I start thinking "I should have my GT take a bit longer and make those changes too..."
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Working on and modifying your GT is WAY more fun than actually driving it!

I would think that heating systems in electric vehicles would consume a lot of electricity. 12V based electric heaters in cars have always sucked. I'm sure they have designed them to put out plenty of heat, but at what cost to the battery charge?

Cars, especially old ones like ours, are incredibly leaky and uninsulated, when it comes maintaining temperature in the passenger compartment. I've heard it said that a typical AC system in a big car puts out about the same BTU's as a whole house AC unit. House-Car, that's a huge difference in air volume, so you can imagine how incredibly inefficient cars, especially older ones, are at maintaining cabin temps.
 

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Working on and modifying your GT is WAY more fun than actually driving it!
I don't know that I enjoy working on it that much. It's alright, and I like having a project, but, the only reason I'm working on it is to have the end result. If I could snap my fingers and get the custom finished result, I'd be happy to skip to the end of the line. As to driving it, I'll let you know when I drive one for the first time :p. I can't imagine I'd enjoy building it less than driving, or I'd deliberately never get it back on the road.

I would think that heating systems in electric vehicles would consume a lot of electricity. 12V based electric heaters in cars have always sucked. I'm sure they have designed them to put out plenty of heat, but at what cost to the battery charge?
A big heater is 4000w. Or about 5.3 horsepower. So if you're running it flat out, it would suck up about 5.3 horsepower. Not the end of the world. That's maybe for the coldest days here, equivalent to when you'd run any other heater flat-out non-stop because the vehicle never really gets warm enough. That's maybe 7 days a year. Lots of EV builders only bother with 1-2000w.

Other winter concerns are that the battery itself gives less energy because the of the chemistry when cold (or if you heat it, then the energy to heat it). Few people measure their gas mileage in cars when cold, and aren't even aware that engines use more fuel when cold too. We had a week of really cold weather (and otherwise identical commute) my range on my tank went from 650km to 375km. 57% as far when brutally cold.

For more impactful heating, seat warmers are worth well over 10x what their wattage is for warmth, if not 50x.

Regardless, I live in Canada, it's not an option, gotta be able to keep the window from icing and I have no intention of being miserable when driving.

Cars, especially old ones like ours, are incredibly leaky and uninsulated, when it comes maintaining temperature in the passenger compartment.
Certainly not the GT that doesn't even recirculate cabin air. That's trash, I'll change that one for sure.

I've heard it said that a typical AC system in a big car puts out about the same BTU's as a whole house AC unit.
I was gonna say that that doesn't pass my bullshit test. Think about the size of a whole-house AC and the air volume behind it. But, after a little reading, it's at least roughly true.

A car AC will use about 3000 watts (4hp).
A full-house AC is about 20 BTUs per sqft. Average home size is 2500 sqft so 50,000 BTU/h.

I can find new 50kBTU units that claim to use 3,500 watts, others that yield 14,000 watts average.

3500 watts is tiny, you could run that from a 15A breaker 240v breaker. That's only as much cooling as 2 in-window units. That's not usually what I see for air conditioners on panels. 30A is normal.

That said, car ACs are overpowered compared to homes, because homes will regulate a steady temperature (generally). Whereas in a car, you leave it parked in the sun all day and then suddenly want the interior to be cool right now. I rarely leave my AC on full-tilt when driving, even in Phoenix or the Mojave, just gets too cold.

House-Car, that's a huge difference in air volume, so you can imagine how incredibly inefficient cars, especially older ones, are at maintaining cabin temps.
I think it more just has to do with cars being made of metal, the cabin being half glass, and you're pushing it through the environment you don't want it to be the same temperature as, as highway speeds.

Anyway, philosophical discussion for another time, not wanting to hijack.
 

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Cars, especially old ones like ours, are incredibly leaky and uninsulated,
With my header sitting about 1/4" from the drivers foot well, and even with Dynamat in my interior and firewall. I have always had an uncomfortable amount of heat radiating inside the car. I had my header Ceramic coated and that helped a little. I added a carbon fiber cowl induction hood and that really helped my under hood temps but didn't do much for the footwell area. So while I had my car down last year for paint I sprayed Lizard Skin Ceramic insulation and sound control on the firewall and trans tunnel. I can't say the sound control made any noticeable difference but the insulation appears to work amazingly well. As I can no longer feel any heat even on long drives. It made my AC much happier since I no longer have to run it on high to keep the car cool. Lizard Skin may not be for everyone because it leaves I very textured surface, but at least for me it has worked very well. If you look at the pic below, between the cam cover and the power steering control unit on top of the pedal box you can see the amount of texture it has.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I don't know that I enjoy working on it that much. It's alright, and I like having a project, but, the only reason I'm working on it is to have the end result. If I could snap my fingers and get the custom finished result, I'd be happy to skip to the end of the line. As to driving it, I'll let you know when I drive one for the first time :p. I can't imagine I'd enjoy building it less than driving, or I'd deliberately never get it back on the road.

I'm kidding, somewhat, of course. I'm speaking as someone who has driven the same kind of car for 40 years and as someone who is mainly a tinkerer and not someone who is particularly a "car guy". It's an exciting time to be a car modifier. There are so many directions you can go nowadays. If I had more room I could see myself diving head first into the whole electric car thing. I'm fortunate that my previous job exposed me to higher level electronics and high power electrical systems, so none of that stuff scares me. For me, combustion engines are something I don't want to mess with at all.



With my header sitting about 1/4" from the drivers foot well, and even with Dynamat in my interior and firewall. I have always had an uncomfortable amount of heat radiating inside the car. I had my header Ceramic coated and that helped a little. I added a carbon fiber cowl induction hood and that really helped my under hood temps but didn't do much for the footwell area. So while I had my car down last year for paint I sprayed Lizard Skin Ceramic insulation and sound control on the firewall and trans tunnel. I can't say the sound control made any noticeable difference but the insulation appears to work amazingly well. As I can no longer feel any heat even on long drives. It made my AC much happier since I no longer have to run it on high to keep the car cool. Lizard Skin may not be for everyone because it leaves I very textured surface, but at least for me it has worked very well. If you look at the pic below, between the cam cover and the power steering control unit on top of the pedal box you can see the amount of texture it has.

I suppose that stuff would have the same or similar effectiveness if applied to the inside of the firewall. As far as it's unsightliness in the engine compartment, just don't put it on highly visible areas as you have shown. I went wild with self adhesive firewall mat on my Red Baron car and regretted putting it on the high vertical areas like the heater box area(similar to the fuse box area that your pic shows). You're always sticking your hand in there to mess with engine stuff and that repeated monkeying in that area scuffed and pealed back the mat and made it look schitty.

Since my car is fresh from blasting and paint, I might consider coating the firewall inside and out with the Lizard Skin stuff.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Blitz switches(see post #28)
I had a nice little scenario play out with the custom switches with light up blitzes on them that I ordered for my new car. Tracking said the package had gotten delivered superfast, 3 days after ordering them, to my house last thursday at 2pm. I was working in the garden all day and no truck came by. I informed the seller the next day on Friday about the missing delivery. I bought the switches through Amazon, but Fedex did the delivery. I waited until yesterday, Tuesday, to escalate my complaint, just in case the package had been handed off to the Post Office for delivery or something. I then submitted my complaint to Amazon and then called the seller and reordered another batch of the switches, this time with delivery confirmation and a signature required. They told me that I needed to submit my complaint to Fedex, not Amazon, and I would only get $100 back. I went to the Fedex site and there was this long form to fill out and I just didn't want to go through the bullshit of filling it out and, being a former postal worker, I knew that lost packages seldom get found and the whole exercise would be pointless. I called the seller back and placed the order again, privately, 'cuz I want those switches NOW. They made new ones for me for HALF PRICE. These were sort of expensive switches: $17 each and I bought 8 of them. $70 delivered. That softened the blow of the loss of the original $153 on the original order. Well, this morning, Wednesday, I check my email and Amazon issued me a FULL refund of the original $153!!!!!! One day after filing the complaint! So, that means that I got my switches for half price with a full refund of the original full price. Hooray! Now I can quite happily place a second order for TWELVE switches, at full price, to replace the ones in my GTX car and know that I got all 20 switches for less than full price. Wheeeee!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Padding and Upholstery Begins:

I no longer need the chopped out mid-section from my old GT, so I removed the dash "skeleton" and seats, took it off of it's platform and dollies, and propped it up out of the way. I re-used the 5'x5' platform to make a work table and put a mover's blanket on it.

I trimmed the scrap piece of pvc sculpting foam left over from my previous dash, to give me a 48" long straight edge for the dash overhang, and traced the windshield side arc onto it, then cut it out with scissors. Finally, I put door edge molding over the jagged cut edge of the arc, so that I can later pull and glue in place the upholstery without it getting cut by the sharp edges of the perforated metal.


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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Dash padding completed
I cut out and glued in place the pvc sculpting foam padding to the dash today. The dash top was fully covered and just the bottom of the overhang. I stop the padding about 1/2" from where unpadded veneered panels will meet the dash. This lets the padding hide most of the wood-only panel edges. I wanted to use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, but 3 Home Depots and the well-stocked local ACE Hardware store were out of the stuff. Apparently everyone is making home made dash boards this month. I don't really need super adhesion, it's just foam, and Super 77 is a bit of overkill for this light job, but a can of it would come in handy later in the car's build. So, I decide to give Gorilla Glue spray adhesive a try. Mainly because it was the only spray glue left on the shelf. Gorilla Glue is just Great Stuff foam without the foam. I'm not terribly impressed with the stuff, but it's freakin' everywhere! GG wood glue, GG duct tape, GG velcro, etc. It said not to use it on Vinyl and pvc sculpting foam is Poly VINYL Chloride, so I tested it on a scrap chunk and it didn't melt or catch fire and it seems to stick good enough for this project.
Next comes upholstery! With Goop.......
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Woop! Woop! My Blitz switches arrived. This was the original shipment that got lost......for a while. Wow! They're great, better than I had hoped for! I was afraid that the lettering wouldn't show up nice and bright white, so that I could see them good in the daytime. They look great! Now I have to test wire them up to verify that there is electrical isolation to the LED's from the main power coming in to each one from whatever device they turn on. My previously purchased switches of this type in my GTX car came pre-wired with no electrical schematic of how the switches work and one row of them in that car won't turn off when I turn off the car. I now have a schematic of them that seems to show that I can power the LED's, via the car's dash illumination circuit, independent of the main device power coming into each switch. I also bought 2 other switches that are dual pole for a secret project I'm working on. If the LED's are isolated, I will then order a whole bunch more to replace all of the ones in my GTX car(10) and the electric window switches I have in both cars(4).

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