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Nowadays there are clear coat formulas that require no sanding.
Clear coat doesn't HAVE to be "colour sanded", but to get a smoother, orange-peel-free finish, as for show cars or really nice restorations, it is almost essential with all clear coats. When doing repairs of factory paint, colour sanding is seldom done. as it makes the repaired panel smoother than the adjacent factory-painted panels, and so looks different.
 

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If I recall correctly, the saddles also MUST be oriented correctly. There are a few obscure words in the Factory Service Manual about which off-set holes are to the outboard (or maybe inboard) side. I am tied up this morning but I'll try to find the passage in the FSM later today
 

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I wonder if it's because I use aluminum pans.
Opel GT Source specifically states that the one-piece oil pan gasket is NOT recommended for the aluminum oil pan.

I used a one-piece gasket on my aluminum oil pan and it is totally leak-free. But it was after installing the one-piece gasket TWICE on Sterling Rempel's aluminum pan, which leaked both times. So I was especially carefull with mine, ensuring the pan edges were perfectly straight. I used a very small amount of RTV at the corners, and was ESPECIALLY CAREFUL to not exceed 4 lb-ft (48 lb-inch) of bolt torque. When we installed Sterlings, we carefully torqued the pan bolts to 6 lb-ft (72 lb-inch) and the rubber extruded off the metal frame in several locations.
 

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What part of the dizzy are you capping off?
I'll have no use for the hole the distributor goes in. I'll have an electric fuel pump and trigger wheel like you seem to have.

To cap off the distributor hole, I'm going to make an aluminum piece.
So what turns the oil pump?
 
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