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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some Assembly Required

Woop! Woop! The body shop is done with my car and it's painted and ready to come home. I'm typing this after seeing it, taking some of the loose items home in my SUV, and arranging for a tow truck to pick it. Best paint job I've ever gotten in the 40 years and 20 paint jobs I've given this Maaco shop. No specks and smooth as glass! It took them a whole day to paint. They ran out of yellow paint and had to call another shop to get more. It's C4 Corvette yellow with a coat of clear. This car and it's body kit are a remake of my beloved Ole Yeller GT that I drove for 18 years and 225,000 miles. My heart swelled with joy seeing it painted the same milky yellow that I spent so many years enjoying looking at.

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just wondering, did you tip the person that painted the car?:)

It came out great.
I'll probably drop by and give a couple of the guys "Benjamins" for Xmas.


I don’t think I ever heard but what engine are you putting in it?

It looks amazing!
A 2.4, same as my other car. The paint and kit is a remake of a car I had in the 80's to the 00's, the interior and engine will be very similar to my GTX car, but not as extreme.

😀
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No sanding or polishing necessary, the whole paint job is smooth and reflective as glass. I have learned from my habit of applying "show shine" products AT car shows that the rag wiping slowly polishes the car to shiny perfection over time. Generally, my car has been the shiniest car at most car shows. My other car, the GTX, had specks, but they all disappeared after a year or two of polishing at shows. It did NOT have a clear coat.

This car isn't perfect and won't ever be perfect. If you remember all the dreadful things that were done to it to make it a gullwing, and the dreadful things I had to do to it to make it a normal GT again, then the dreadful discovery, after it was bead blasted, that there were numerous Frankenstein patches of replacement body panel sections done 25 years ago in Germany, then the addition of the kit. Conservative estimate: There's 2 gallons of body putty on the car. So, it's a miracle that the car looks as good as it does. I'm at $20,000 so far with the purchase and fix up, plus some parts. There's probably another $5000 to be spent before it's done. And all of this in the first year of retirement, when I should have been living frugally and eating dog food. I'll do my Gordo thing with fun and clever mods and enjoy the car and it's assembly.

:)
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
First Day of Fun with My Banana

No, not THAT banana, my Banana GT. 🤪 As we all know, you should always install all your cool and chromy stuff right away when building a new car. So, I put some chromy stuff on and started the fitment process of my cool Lenk hood with hood window. Also, I got a nice shiny rebuilt steering column from Opeljohn. I won't be installing the doors until Spring, I have a very small garage and a whole custom interior and whole car wiring job to do and that will be a lot easier with no doors on.

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
FYI: I know that what I'm going to do next will sound cheesy, but I've got to do something about this issue. I'm going to spray paint the engine compartment. My Maaco shop, and probably many others, don't normally do whole car restorations and certainly not cars that have been bead blasted inside and out and need to be painted THOROUGHLY inside and out. Their paint job of the engine compartment and interior is very thin and needs enhancement. You get what you pay for with a Maaco shop and I paid half of what a real body shop or Keith would have charged to do this car. This car didn't deserve the super deluxe treatment either. I hoped they would have done a better job, but they didn't and I need to fix it. The exterior paint is good, but the interior areas need some more coverage.

I'm fairly impressed with the Rustoleum 2X/3X line of paints and I'm going to buy a case of their paint in yellow and I'm going to mask off the body and touch up the areas in question. The Rustoleum 2X doesn't require priming and has micro particles, the "2X" aspect, and I'll coat the whole engine compartment and nose area with the stuff. Then, possibly, a coat of Eastwood Diamond Clear to seal it from oil staining. This will give me 2 coats of yellow with no primer in between, plus the clear. I modify a lot and that tends to accumulate scratched paint, so the more paint the better. By using an off the shelf paint I can do touch ups to scratches that will match the paint that got scratched. Matching touch up paint is really important to me.

I'm not 100% sold on the Rustoleum 2X, I'll have to spray some and compare how well it matches. The car is painted Corvette C4 yellow and I may be able to find a rattle can color of yellow that is C4 yellow. Or maybe you guys can find me some paint in that color. The parts I put on the car are lightly installed and can be removed for a more thorough painting.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
First they had to coat almost the entire car in putty to smooth over the frankenstein patches and irregularities. Then I walked in with the body kit. Body kits need a LOT of putty to blend in. Then they had to do a bit of metal work to fit the door hinges(You may recall that the hinge openings had been welded closed and I had to chop out the patches). Then I wanted them to smooth the bottom of the hood. All in all, they told me that their putty guy had to spend 4 weeks doing the car. $8500 before tax.

This car was a disasterous purchase and the steps I had to take to fix it up were even more cringe-inducing. But, it was a rust free debaucle, once I chopped off the roof and the added doorway metal, so a good foundation to start from. I wasn't looking for another car project, but now that it's in my lap I'm doing my affordable best to make a bad purchase half decent.

😀
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yeah, it was a lot more money than I was expecting, too. That's why guys spend YEARS fixing up their GT's themselves or pay even bigger bucks to have Keith or other high end shops to fix up their cars. I don't have big bucks nor do I have all that many years of being alive to enjoy a car, so a Maaco job got it done good enough in a relatively short amount of time.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
It's no problem to find Corvette C4 1987+ yellow paint and spray paint. That's why I chose this commonly available color. A quick internet search found 5 different places that have it at prices of $15-$25+ a can. That's the "Corvette Price Premium". Put "Corvette" in the name of any part you want and it doubles the price.

I'll start by using the affordable Rustoleum stuff inside the car and in the nose area. As I do that, I'll get a sense how well it works with the well-painted exterior and then decide whether to use it in the engine bay. Meanwhile, I'll order one can of fancy Corvette 1987+ C4 yellow and when it comes I can do some color tests.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I ordered a rear window gasket, door bumpers, and a tan carpet set, which arrived today. I guess I've never seen brown GT carpet and was expecting it to be medium brown. It has really nice medium brown trim, but the carpet is at best a......uhhhh......gee, I don't know what color to call it.....sandy light brown? Grayish light brown? I was hoping for a medium brown to match the wood inlays of my custom dash. The vinyl edging matches that pretty good. Oh well, they say you should use 3 colors as a scheme. I'm sure it will grow on me, maybe it will work well with the beige dash/door panels/headliner. But, aside from the color, HOLY COW THIS IS NICE CARPET! It's double-sided, has vinyl trim, and it's super rigid, heavy duty, high quality carpet! OGTS said they had upgraded to high quality stuff......they weren't kidding, this carpet kit is really nice stuff!

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
Body kit stuff fitted

Yesterday I positioned and bolted the hood window to the hood and installed hood bumpers on the cowling(Lenk hoods don't fit very well and they don't make contact with the oem hood bumpers on the sides of the hood opening very well, if at all.).

Today my mission was to install the wing that came with the kit. You may recall that I was working on a mod to make it flip up to make filling the tank easier. Everything was going fine with that until I tried to flip it up. As I had feared, when I was doing the mod on my workbench, the down-turned tips of the wing hit the body. I'll have to conjure a not-ugly way to elevate the wing feet about 1" higher. No problem, I anticipated this problem, I'll figure something out.

It was a rare warm day before the Canadians open their refrigerator doors and send us the correct cold air we're supposed to have at this time of year, so I decided to loosely fit the headlights and Lenk grill, so that you and I can see the whole Parsget and Lenk body kit stuff on the car and make note of adjustments that I'll have to make in the future.


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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
They ran out of yellow paint and had to call another shop to get more. Color variances on my cars are the story of my Opel life. The bumper is a different color yellow from a previous car. I guess it's the grill you're talking about, yeah, it seems a bit darker yellow.......in places. I had to use the camera flash to eliminate sun shadows, so maybe that has a part to play.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Some more wing work...

I'm determined to make the wing on this car flip up, but it's fighting me tooth and nail. I don't want to alter the wing or it's feet, though, and just use an added hinge concept. I couldn't do any work on the car until it came back from the shop and had to do things "theoretically" on my workbench. After installing my work bench idea, the down turned tips of the wing hit the body as the hinging makes them arc. I was afraid they would. So, today I fiddled around with figuring out how much higher the wing would need to sit so as not to hit the body. Schitt, a whole 1.25" or so.

I could make new, taller, feet out of wood and paint them yellow. I've made wood feet before on a previous wing. I could replace the existing feet with tubular stilts paint yellow(Imagine the stand-offs in the pics replacing the feet as taller cylinders painted yellow). I could say, "Screw this hinge idea!" and hold the wing on with heavy duty outdoor grade velcro and rip it off and lay it on the ground every time I fill the tank. Yeah, that sucks. I AM a woodworker kind of guy, so I really should bite the bullet and take a crack at making taller replacement feet. Back to the drawing board.....

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Fitting the dashboard

Another project was to fit the custom dash I made. Like the wing, it's fighting me tooth and nail, also. The dash top seems to be 1/2"-1" too wide. Apparently the firewall from my old car, that I used to mock it up, and was patched back together(I had to chop it down the middle to get it in my SUV) was a bit wider than an oem car. Just a little, but enough to cause a giant PIA. I may have to "UN-upholster" it at the ends and chop 1/2" off of each side. Uurrgghh. Oh well, that's customizing for you: Sometimes you have to customize your customizations......

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
All great suggestions, I'll add them to my food for thought smorgasbord.

One hinge idea I had considered was strap, gate, shutter, etc. At least one leaf would need to be about 5"-6" long. Considering the foot height issue, I may get better results if the hinges were at the bottom of the feet between the feet and the car and directly attach one leaf of the hinge to the car and the other leaf to the wing assembly. I need to do some mock up tests to see if that's a better option. Here's some choices I found on Ebay:

Stainless Steel Shutter Hinges-Many Offsets Available x 2 pcs | eBay

180° 3-Way Adjustable Strap Hinges - For Wooden Gates up to 770 lbs - Multiple S | eBay

8" Polished Stainless Steel Strap Hinge | eBay
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Dash Install Redux
My first attempt at installing the custom dash, a few posts ago, revealed that I had made it too wide. I performed "open dash surgery" and lopped 1" off of each side and stitched it back together. It fit better this time around, but the center seemed too high at the instrument panel face. I compared with my other car and the vertical supports were 1" higher on this car. I chopped 1" off both of them and now the proportions look better. I have to wait for some peel and stick firewall insulation/sound deadening stuff to arrive at the end of the month and cover both sides of the firewall before I can permanently install the heater, instrument panels, carpet, etc.

It's cold outside, I'm not getting much work done. I finished putting the head back on the GTX car and still have to bolt the FI system and various widgets back on and give it a test start. It's the holidays and my motivation is low. Hopefully I'll find the inspiration to finish the other car before the new year.
🙂



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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I'll probably paint the whole inside black. I plan on wrapping the sides that stick up above the body with mirror finish stainless sheet metal. I don't know if I'll be able to wrap the sheet metal in a single piece all the way around the front with a round opening for the light to come out, trying to cut a round hole in stainless sheet metal would be very difficult. I'll probably end up doing two pieces just on the sides, leaving a rectangular opening. Depth is a problem because of the "bucket" in the car, it's only 3"-4" below the front of the opening.

I spent a lot of time working on this trying to figure out where to put the hinge. The best place would have been just below the lip at the back of the opening. But then I noticed the two flat, paralllel, spots on the sides of the headlight bucket and two mysterious holes in them. I rigged up a pivot to use those holes and.....viola'.....those holes were the perfect place for the headlights to pivot at the middle of the sides. Clearly, Opel had intended the headlights to pop up and pivot there, but they must have scrapped the idea. The hoop that holds the oem 6" headlights was another giveaway. At the bottom of it, where it contacts the flat part of the headlight assembly, you'll notice that it's not bent correctly to meet the metal and the gap has been filled with seam sealer. VERY un-German to do that. Maybe we can blame the French. If the hoop was bent forward, so that the bottom bend met the flat of the assembly correctly, that would have set the headlight hoop at the correct angle for pop-up headlights. My 2.5" LED headlights only require that the headlights pop-up 3"-4". Although the pics don't show it very well, the flats of the headlight assembly are parallel to the ground. Although that is nice, the pivot in the middle idea leaves that gaping gap between the body and the headlight assembly at the back.

But there IS another way to make the headlights pop up AND look good at the same time. Better than my configuration. If someone created a pivot point all the way at the back, where the rotator mechanism bolts to, and extend "arms" or flat metal forward to bolt to where the rotator bolts to the headlight assembly, then, with the pivot point set 3"-4" farther back from the opening, the headlight assembly would tend to lift straight up at the back of the opening and not arc towards it and hit the opening. You probably can't envision what I'm talking about, but I spent many hours making drawings and contemplating different styles of hinges. Every idea had the problem of the headlight assembly hitting the opening. When I saw that the pivot in the middle idea virtually eliminated the chance of the headlight assembly hitting the opening I quit while I was ahead. The pivot in the middle idea allows the headlight assembly to pivot almost straight up, which allows lots of access to bolts things in place and make adjustments. Here's one of my "secret" design and development pics showing how the headlight can point straight up:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
Just couldn't help criticizing it, could ya? Yeah, yeah, the rolly polly headlights are the best part of the car, everyone loves them, everyone wants you to flip them, crowds swarm around the car to see it do it's trick.

Well, I'll tell ya, from 1980 to 2020 I never had a GT with decent working or working at all headlights. That's 40 years of not having flip over headlights. They've been a big PIA my entire Opel life and I f'n hate'em. The Red Baron's headlights would never flip without doing unjustifiable massive bodywork on the right front fender. Same deal with my long time yellow GT that I drove for 20 years. My GTX car came to me 15 years ago with the tunnel mod already done, so I made them work, and they have been 100% trouble free and awesome. I make modified cars, I have chosen to mod them the way the factory intended to make them, but failed. I succeeded. It's an unusual mod that no one that we know of has ever accomplished. So, it's a feather in my cap.

I don't care if you and the others who agree with you don't like it.

:mad:
 
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