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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #324 ·
Gussets Welded On

They ain't pretty. They haven't been ground down or cleaned up yet. Massive thick welds. I had them add a bit of weld to the bolted on sway bar brackets. I can finally put the front suspension together and get the front brake lines done, then I'll be done with the bottom of the car and can move on to wiring.


Automotive tire Plant Bumper Motor vehicle Bicycle part


Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bicycle part Crankset Motor vehicle


Automotive tire Wood Bumper Motor vehicle Bicycle part
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #325 ·
Gussets Cleaned Up and Painted
Today was a gorgeous breezy day in the mid-70's, so I ground and sanded off the worst of the welding irregularities, painted with 3 coats of silver epoxy paint, and a few coats of clear. They're not meant to win a beauty contest, just work good and not rust. The lower A-arms had been blasted and silver powdercoated because they were nasty. The upper ones were pretty clean, so I had painted them with the epoxy paint. I knew that the welding would burn off both coatings, so I had already planned to epoxy paint them both when they were done. I've been very unimpressed with how well powdercoat holds up on suspension parts. It seems to chip easily, exposing bare metal to rust. So, I'm performing an experiment to see if powdercoating, plus paint and clear coat on top, will have a bit more durability. With them painted today, I can start reassembling the front suspension tomorrow. I've been stuck in the mud for almost 7 weeks trying to get these gussets acquired and installed and I'm itching to get back to work on the car.


Automotive tire Bumper Home appliance Vacuum cleaner Vehicle door


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Grey Road surface


Automotive tire Bumper Synthetic rubber Fender Rim


Motor vehicle Automotive design Bicycle part Grey Automotive exterior


Bicycle part Grey Tool Font Composite material


Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle part Tool Rim
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #327 ·
The stainless steel color of the appliance paint is hard to find, for me, at least. Mostly, white is available. Amazon didn't have the SS color, nor did Ebay, my local ACE Hardware doesn't stock it and I can't get them to order is, but another ACE about 20 miles away does stock it. I'm going there today. Last time I went there to get it, me and the owner couldn't find it on the shelf, even though their website said they had 4 cans. We ended up finding it behind a bunch of other silver paint in the wrong location.

There are other silvery epoxy spray paints out there, but I'm not willing to give them a try yet.
 

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Opeler
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Rust-Oleum Specialty Gloss Stainless Steel Oil-Based Appliance Epoxy 12 oz:
Home Depot web site has ship to store ($31.67 case = 6 cans) or home order.
As mentioned Ace Hardware may have a can or so in stock at remote store locations.

Lowes site shows Krylon or Seymore stainless steel spray. Seymore is special order, 6-cans for $44.88.
SEYMOUR Stainless Steel Spray Paint

Item #396254 Model #0000160054
  • A special formulation containing 100% 316L stainless steel pigment
  • Provides maximum protection against weather, sunlight, oil and water
  • Heat-resistant up to 250°F
 

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Appliance epoxy paint looks like a nice finish. Will have to try it someday.
Just a heads up I can't speak for the color Gordon is using, but can say for the white appliance paint I have used before doesn't do so well for outdoor and or moist locations!! It looks great at first but tends to have a problem with mildew/algae
 
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Opeler
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Just a heads up I can't speak for the color Gordon is using, but can say for the white appliance paint I have used before doesn't do so well for outdoor and or moist locations!! It looks great at first but tends to have a problem with mildew/algae
That’s usually the difference between doing something “right now” and doing something “now, the right way.”
We’ve all been there at some point. Cost can be a factor of course, but I’ve learned that the right way, while typically more expensive causes less problems, less time correcting/fixing and cost in the long run.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #331 ·
Yeah, okay.

Of course, you don't suggest what the "right way" is because there is no "right way". But hey, that's what this site is all about: Criticism.

Blasting and Powerdcoating: It chips off when rocks hit it, exposing bare metal to the elements and causing rust to form.

Various cheap spray can paints: They don't last or adhere very well.

Epoxy primer and epoxy paint: Better adhesion and durability. Still not perfect.

Body shop paint with hardener: Probably no better than epoxy primer and paint.

Chroming: Expensive and stupid.

Various other products, including epoxy ones, that have been around for no more than 5 years that claim to last 100 years: Yeah, okay.

Send them back to Germany, acid dip them, and have the original lead based black paint applied, which in most cases has lasted 50 years: Probably the best idea, but ridiculous.


Yes, cost ends up being the bottom line. I have powdercoating, epoxy paint, and clear coat applied to this entire front suspension. What more, pray tell, do you want me to do? What "right way" did you use on your modded suspension parts?

I shouldn't even be making this front suspension. I was supposed to get a wider coil over suspension for my other car and it's silver, yellow, and red powdercoated(only) suspension was supposed to go on this car, and I would then take off this suspension and sell, trade, or keep it for a spare. I'm 63, I'm sure that what I've done will last long enough to get me to the nursing or funeral home.

Yes, Terry, the epoxy paint says it's for "indoor use", so maybe it is susceptible to things like mold. But I've coated it with Eastwood Diamond clear, which, so far, seems to be the best stuff to coat your engine paint to keep it from staining. So, I have sealed it as best I can from mold and other environmental factors. It is a garage kept car that will get an inordinant amount of love an attention.

Questions?
 

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Opeler
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Yeah, okay.

Of course, you don't suggest what the "right way" is because there is no "right way". But hey, that's what this site is all about: Criticism.

Blasting and Powerdcoating: It chips off when rocks hit it, exposing bare metal to the elements and causing rust to form.

Various cheap spray can paints: They don't last or adhere very well.

Epoxy primer and epoxy paint: Better adhesion and durability. Still not perfect.

Body shop paint with hardener: Probably no better than epoxy primer and paint.

Chroming: Expensive and stupid.

Various other products, including epoxy ones, that have been around for no more than 5 years that claim to last 100 years: Yeah, okay.

Send them back to Germany, acid dip them, and have the original lead based black paint applied, which in most cases has lasted 50 years: Probably the best idea, but ridiculous.


Yes, cost ends up being the bottom line. I have powdercoating, epoxy paint, and clear coat applied to this entire front suspension. What more, pray tell, do you want me to do? What "right way" did you use on your modded suspension parts?

I shouldn't even be making this front suspension. I was supposed to get a wider coil over suspension for my other car and it's silver, yellow, and red powdercoated(only) suspension was supposed to go on this car, and I would then take off this suspension and sell, trade, or keep it for a spare. I'm 63, I'm sure that what I've done will last long enough to get me to the nursing or funeral home.

Yes, Terry, the epoxy paint says it's for "indoor use", so maybe it is susceptible to things like mold. But I've coated it with Eastwood Diamond clear, which, so far, seems to be the best stuff to coat your engine paint to keep it from staining. So, I have sealed it as best I can from mold and other environmental factors. It is a garage kept car that will get an inordinant amount of love an attention.

Questions?
Holy crap. I wasn’t criticizing anything or anyone specifically, especially you or what you’re doing. I replied to Terry and spoke generally about experiences.
You are very opinionated dude and your facts aren’t always right, but instead based on your personal experience…which could be an outlier to the norm or due to an uncommon issue or just something you’ve heard about a topic you’re speaking about or it’s used in a way that it’s not intended to be used…which is totally fine, EVERYONE falls in that bucket at times. However, powder coating doesn’t chip every time a rock hits it and is generally extremely durable. If it did, why are frames and most other under car parts being coated that way? Now, it can absolutely occur, but again probably due to improper application thickness, poor preparation or improper baking time/temp. Typically, you get what you pay for…powder coat in your backyard with an oven or with “a guy I know” and it may not yield outstanding results, but use a reputable shop and it should be as expected. Nothing is for certain is all I’m saying.

Also, I shouldn’t have posted in one of your threads again. Last time I did, it upset you and you deleted a ton of stuff. So, I’m apologizing to you for making a post that upset you again or seemed like I was questioning what you were doing. It won’t happen again, I’ll view from afar and refrain for posting going forward. Sorry! Hope this whole project turns out just the way you want it to to because that’s what matters.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
I apologize to you for being so thin skinned that I take insult to some of your comments. The fault is mine entirely and I'm a jerk for climbing up your backside. I way over-reacted last time and it was an accumulation of multiple posts by others suggesting I do my old Red Baron days goofy stuff. Here, in my later years, I'm trying to do things more seriously, yet I still can't shrug off my wackadoodle legacy of having fun with a schitty GT that I used to have.

Please feel free to comment as you see fit. This goes for everyone else, too. I've had a lot of frustration with this car project.

I'm the jerk, not you guys.

:)
 

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Can Opeler
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Gordo, I highly recommend the Seymour line of metallic paints. Seymour 316L is the stainless color. It’s not epoxy, but it literally dries in seconds and has proven very durable on my cars. I’ve been using the cast aluminum version and it’s hands down the best paint I’ve ever used.

I can paint something and then install it within 10 minutes without messing up the paint.

The stainless steel variant may act differently so buy at your own risk. If you are looking for a cast aluminum color go for it though. I’ll probably try the other colors at some point too.
 

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Opeler
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I apologize to you for being so thin skinned that I take insult to some of your comments. The fault is mine entirely and I'm a jerk for climbing up your backside. I way over-reacted last time and it was an accumulation of multiple posts by others suggesting I do my old Red Baron days goofy stuff. Here, in my later years, I'm trying to do things more seriously, yet I still can't shrug off my wackadoodle legacy of having fun with a schitty GT that I used to have.

Please feel free to comment as you see fit. This goes for everyone else, too. I've had a lot of frustration with this car project.

I'm the jerk, not you guys.

:)
You aren’t a jerk man, and honestly I don’t think many people are. You’re all good, just know that most of us that comment are trying to be helpful and support your endeavors, even if it’s possibly counter to the path you’re on. All good here buddy. Like I said earlier, best of luck on this and I hope it turns out just like you want it to!
 

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But I've coated it with Eastwood Diamond clear,
AHH now there's something I wouldn't have thought about!! that my very well be the answer for it. I may even try that myself for some touch up on my service van. OH that lovely 07 GMC/Chevy non sticking factory paint job that comes off in sheets o_O :poop:
 
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I smiled when I saw "Chroming: Expensive and stupid" Because although not usually enforced it is illegal to Chrome suspension parts here. I think because rust can run under chrome undetected.
And when working at the Volvo/Mack factory I was involved in researching production method changes, one was introducing electro-static charged painting and I suspect what we found may apply to powder coating as well.
That is when spraying into sharp corners or seams the charge would attract the material to the sides not giving full coverage along the corner or seem. A skilled operator can force it in but not ideal for production where operators change.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #339 · (Edited)
I'm told that the chroming process can make things brittle. Not a big deal, probably, when it comes to blinging up your engine compartment, but you don't want your suspension stuff to crack. It's probably unlikely that chroming will make stuff so brittle that it cracks and I've never had any stuff that I chromed break or crack, but they say it's possible.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #340 ·
Hey Alex, where are you with your car project? The last thing I saw was you putting wheel flares on it. How about an update in your build thread as to where you are with your project?
 
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