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· Master Story Teller & Fabricator
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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
Gordo- Could you hand brush paint those missed under hood (nooks and crannies) areas with flat or mat finish yellow?
I have noticed many newer cars have a base paint in the engine bay while the rest of the car will get a metal flake or other hi-end paint work.
I have all sorts of spray paint, none of which match my too thin coat of paint, even expensive $25 a can made-to-order paint from a Corvette place. I even have a one quart bottle of the paint they used on my car without any hardener in it. They all suck when it comes to matching my paint or they don't have a gloss finish or some other flaw. I've done some spraying and brushing on in other areas and the results were discouraging. I'll have to hit them with some Eastwood clear coat to get them shiny and grease/oil/dirt repellent. I still have to put the peal and stick firewall stuff on, so that will cover a lot of the areas in the pics. Bunch of work still to do....

And/or have the brackets for your wing painted to match?
No, I'm fine with the way they are. They were super expensive stainless steel walk-in ice box hinges. They'll stay nice and chromy. I'm the first guy to make a tilt up whale tail Lenk wing, so I can live with the hinges showing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #462 · (Edited)
Today I started work on making a patch for my removed heater box in the engine compartment. I did this before on my other car, so I knew the path and pitfalls to take note of. When I did it from scratch before I was on my own and had to measure and guess what and where to cut out the box and then make a patch for the hole. This time I used my other car to make paper template copies to match the cover plates I recently made out of stainless steel to cover the corroding aluminum plates I had dressed up the area with previously. Once I had paper templates I cut them out and taped them together and started test fitting and trimming and adding fold over tabs to fasten the "first layer" in place. Once I have a template that is as close as I can get it to fitting, I trace that onto some some thin flashing like you use on the siding of your house. Easy to cut with scissors or a razor knife and easy to bend, plus coated with vinyl to resist corrosion. Bend and shape it, test fit, bend and shape some more, test fit......until I'm satisfied. Then I add sealer or foamy weatherstripping stuff to certain areas to keep it air and water tight, then I rivet it in place. Like on my other car, I'll then make stainless steel cover plates to make it awesome. The decision to cover the actual patch with decorative cover plates allows me to bend/shape/attach the patch without spending one second about how it looks, which gives me the freedom use lots of rivets and have wrinkles and bends that don't look so nice, but which are very functional. Then I just cover up the ugly with nice flat shiny plates. Here's where I'm at so far:

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· Master Story Teller & Fabricator
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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
Heater Box Patch Plate Completed!

I couldn't find a 16" square piece of vinyl coated flashing at Home Depot, so I found a 36" square piece of raw aluminum. Traced the template onto the sheet metal, added details like fold over tabs and where to cut and bend, tin snips to cut it out, cheapo Harbour Freight sheet metal brake, drilled and installed 3 rivets, all done. I'm going to wait until I fit it to the car before I bend over other tabs and such. Raining today and can't get to the car.


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· Solo II is fun in a GT!
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I still have to put the peal and stick firewall stuff on, so that will cover a lot of the areas in the pics.
Like "STICKY™ SHIELD -FIREWALL AND TRANSMISSION TUNNEL HEAT SHIELD"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #467 ·
Today's project was to resolve my hood latching. I purchased a hood latch T-handle assembly from OGTS and had to figure out where to mount it. My custom dashes stick out 2" farther than oem, so I have to put an L-bracket somewhere to anchor the handle. So, this is where it is. Not pretty, but far enough under the dash to not be very visible:

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The next mod was a real conundrum. Lenk hoods normally come as just the upper skin in fiberglass and the attachment plate to the hood hinges. No hood latching 1/4" rods and no place to put the hood prop rod. If you want all that stuff and the whole hood to be good and strong, you can swap over the underlying reinforcement metal from an oem hood and fiberglass/resin it to the Lenk hood. My other car just has the skin and some eye bolts sticking down for the hood latch bar to grab, but no place to put the prop rod. The hood on this car has the whole shebang swapped over, plus putty over the whole bottom to smooth it out and make it look nice. Lots of money invested in this hood. But, then I got the crazy idea to put a hood window in it, like my other car has, and when I was done installing it I realized that you could see the ugly unpainted, normally hidden, underside of the oem reinforcement metal that spans across the cowling area. On top of that the cowling metal blocked 1/4-1/3 of the view of the engine through the window. No sense in having a hood window if it shows ugly stuff and not as much of the engine as possible. So, I chopped out the offending section of the cowling area reinforcement metal. But, oh shucks, the 1/4" rods that the hood latch bar grabs were part of that section. I was left with a nice chromed hood latch bar and nothing for it to grab. Long story short, there were two 1" x 3" rectangular openings left behind in the reinforcement metal after I chopped out the metal and, as it turned out, if I put a metal rod in those "pockets" that spanned from one side of the hood to the other, the perfect spot to fasten the rod was in the lower rear corner of those pockets. I had a nice stainless steel rod that would do the job and it looks good through the window. The hard part was how to fasten it in place. The hood latching requires very little force, almost nothing, just enough to keep the air that rushes under the belly pan and then wants to try to escape by going up into the engine compartment, from lifting the hood. I discovered this issue one day when I drove my other car to work with it's super light fiberglass only Lenk hood, but no hood latching concept implemented. Everything was cool on the local roads, but as I entered a highway and hit 50mph the hood started slowly rising up like Poseidon rising from the sea. Aaagghhh! Suddenly I couldn't see the road because the hood was sticking up about a foot and there were cars all around me! Aaaaggghhh! I couldn't grab the hood out the window to hold it down, so I had to drive down the highway in heavy traffic with my head out the window until I got to my exit. Just something the strength of a rubber band would have held it down. So, not much force needed to keep the hood latched. I pondered how to anchor that hood-spanning rod for many months, it's in an inconvenient place, I didn't install the hood window until after the car was painted, otherwise I would have dealt with this issue while I was doing bodywork before painting. I want to avoid drilling and bolting it in place for various reasons, so I have decided to passively anchor it with Goop glue. The pics are of the assemblage waiting for the glue to dry. Later, I will fill the pockets with specially shaped wood blocks or rubber hoses or something that will apply constant pressure to the rod to keep it from coming loose. It may fail, if so I'll just have to come up with a better idea.

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Discussion Starter · #468 ·
More progress wrapping up engine compartment mods and fix up before engine install.

I test fitted my returnless fuel pump positioning in the removed heater box area. I kind of did this for Frozen Tundra and myself because he's contemplating fuel pump stuff at the moment. Looks like it will work there. Mounting will require some creative bracket work. It's a little closer to the engine than I would prefer, but I plan on making a SS shield for the side that faces the engine as part of the bracket. We'll see what I come up with....

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I completed my mod to restore hood latch function by making hard wood blocks to glue inside the pockets where I have anchored my transverse hood latch rod. Their purpose is to fill those holes and pinch and press on the rod to hold it in place. LOTS of Goop adhesive. I'll paint what you see of the wood blocks yellow at a later date:

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I wrapped things up with extensive spray painting of the gazillions of areas that Maaco missed when they painted the engine compartment. Not so bad when seen from above where the guy sprayed from, but when I would climb under the car to do work I was seeing horrendous amounts of missed or barely painted areas. Rattle can paint is crapp and bright yellow will stain, so I'm going to need to wait 48 hours before I can coat the whole engine compartment in Eastwood Diamond Clear. The yellow paint is a very appealing color to me, it's ACE Hardware Machine and Implement John Deere Yellow Gloss ACE 17133. It's a very close match to the Corvette Yellow that my too thinly sprayed paint job was supposed to be.

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I didn't have any newspaper to use to mask off the fenders, so I chopped up a 50th anniversary Opel poster that I was sick of having laying around:

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· Someone here finds me offensive
73 GT 1.9 manual fire glow orange drivetrain trimmed in dark metallic copper over satin black yippie
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AH MAN that poster was worth thousands ( to the right buyer) LOL
It's all coming together pretty good Gordon, keep on truckin
 

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Whoa, that is cool. I want one! I might have to get some pointers on how to fabricate one for my 2.4 build.
Here is the thread where he made it:

 

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Discussion Starter · #473 ·
Fuel Pump and Heater Hoses at the Heater Delete Patch Plate

I really liked the fuel pump mounted where the heater box used to be, but this was also a great place for the heater hoses to come out of. Solution? Do both mods at the same time. Because I have to.

Luckily my custom dash is modular, so by removing just 3 bolts the whole passenger side of it was removable:

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Just like my other car, the heater came with 90* bend inlet/outlet tubing and they just won't work, I need them on 30-45* angles. Previous experience showed that they are almost impossible to bend and my arthritic wrists just can't go through that again, so I went to a hydraulic hose place and they made me replacements out of air conditioning hose and 30* bend fittings:

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
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The fuel pump has 3 mounting bolts on stand offs locations, I could only bolt 2 of them to the patch plate without making a bracket for the 3rd. It turns out that I NEED that 3rd mounting bolt, so I'm going to revisit that tomorrow.

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The fuel pump has 3 mounting bolts on stand offs locations, I could only bolt 2 of them to the patch plate without making a bracket for the 3rd. It turns out that I NEED that 3rd mounting bolt, so I'm going to revisit that tomorrow.

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Don’t you want the fuel pump back by the gas tank? I thought that was better since electric pumps push better than pulling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #476 ·
This is a re-envisioned type of FI fuel pump. Edelbrock realized that there's no good reason for modern cars to have a big pump at the back that has to pump all the fuel forward, to a surge tank/swirl pot, through a pressure regulator, then the fuel rail, and back to the tank. Why? No other liquid pumping system pumps the fluid in a big circle non-stop. So, they let you use your existing electric or mechanical fuel pump for your carb to bring the fuel forward or an aftermarket low pressure pump mounted back where the tank is. The fuel gets pumped forward to the reservoir/surge tank/swirl pot built into the FI pump. It's kinda like a toilet, when the tank is full it stops the incoming flow of fuel. The high pressure pump is in the other half of the pump assy and the reservoir keeps it topped off, when it goes low the reservoir refills it and the reservoir replenishes itself. The high pressure fuel pump is meant to be positioned up front near the top of the engine. It only pressurizes about 24" of fuel hose and the fuel rail and DOES NOT pump the extra fuel endlessly back to the tank, the fuel rail is dead ended, so the only high pressure fuel is in the hose and the fuel rail. Less work for the pump to do. So, it's really a 2 pump system. It's an excellent choice for old carb'd cars that go FI. Some cars, like ours, have inconveniently placed and configured fuel tanks that aren't return line friendly. Worse, our cars have the tank entirely within the car, if the return line leaks at the tank it leaks inside the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #478 ·
I put a little more time into the heater/fuel pump thing yesterday. Actually, a LOT more time. I added an L-bracket to stabilize the fuel pump and make it point straight. Another issue was that the 90* fuel line fittings sticking out the top were a little too close to the hood. I ended up drilling new holes to mount it as low as possible. I wouldn't have had to do this laborious chore if I had cut the flange at the front of the heater box area flush. I left it sticking up 1/2". I had also neglected to route the wire and plug for the electric inline heater valve. This heater has a thermostat that opens/closes/partially closes the heater valve.

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Discussion Starter · #479 ·
I did a bunch of odds and ends yesterday and today all I did was put on the peel and stick firewall insulation/sound deadener. I think that's it for pre-engine install engine compartment work, so now it's time to get my engine/auto tranny out of the basement and put'er in the car. I went to Harbour Freight and bought another large size dolly for the job.

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I did a bunch of odds and ends yesterday and today all I did was put on the peel and stick firewall insulation/sound deadener. I think that's it for pre-engine install engine compartment work, so now it's time to get my engine/auto tranny out of the basement and put'er in the car. I went to Harbour Freight and bought another large size dolly for the job.

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Where did you buy the sound deadening at? I need to do this to my red 73 GT since the engine and trans are out of it.
 
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